Mike Biddle

Hi Ed, I had some laser welding done on a 1937 aluminium sump last year, excellent work, and a brilliant method, but providers are few and far between and often busy. I used a guy in Boscastle down in Cornwall, he does a lot of work for F1 teams, but enjoys the occasional diversion to something different. You could always send it by courier. If its of interest PM me and I'll send his details.

Not yet Tom, but that's my question, Why? I've never had a drive saft problem despite having more power than enough since 2005, so whats causing this? LSD setup? 7 Wonders, thanks.

Posting on behalf of a fellow seven owner. He is a German Gentleman resident in Germany and he's suffering with driveshaft failures, 2 so far. Car is a CSR with Ford diff and ZF LSD. His question is can he buy separate driveshaft parts rather then having to a whole new shaft every time. I suspect there will be many questions

Re well being of feet, I suffered the same problem living in Dubai with an LHD car, also an injected VX. My solution was to fit scoops venting into the footwells, which works very well, see the pic below. Note that when this was taken I had fitted a different engine, hence exhausts both sides.

Thanks guys, will look at both of those. Mike.

I'm going to sell my 1989 Range Rover, and need to clean up the matt black areas, window surrounds, lower pillars, bumpers etc, no corrosion, just faded surface. I want to end up with a sheen, but not a gloss, so T cut or similar might be a tad too aggressive. Any experience/thoughts?

Agree with RJ, When I had the business in Dubai, we had a 5 ton forklift and if I ever wanted to get a look underneath the 7 a couple of pieces of wood on top of the forks and up she goes, perfect! A few others are, Stahlwille torque wrench, chain hoists, a pair of steelfixers nips, a 36" stihl chainsaw, and a brush attachment for my stihl combi https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/KombiSystem-and-MultiSystem/KombiTools/21174-1482/KB-KM.aspx Finaly, magnet on a stick and mirro on a stick.

I have 280 MM Hi spec discs and and racing 4 calipers. I am running 13 inch rims, so you should be OK, but that would depend on rim and caliper design/dims. You should be able to check by getting the caliper dims and measuring clearances on the car.

One of the plugs in the photos looks like it's running rich. Could be an injector problem?

Oops! Well there you go, never assume anything. Sorry Steve, love to help but Florida is a tad too far away. Try to post some pics.

Elie, I have a 1938 BMW currently under restoration and if you can post or send me a picture I can ask both the restorer and the technical advisor at the club, and I'm sure, get an answer, probably get hold of the correct part.

As per other posters, you do not currently have enough information to come to any conclusions, get any quotes, or make any decisions. If you can get it out of the car and take the sump off that should allow enough of an inspection to gather required information/quotes and make an informed decision. Are you in a position to do that/do you have facilities/mechanical skills to make an assessment or at least take and post some pics? If you had the engine out now I am on Crawley today, going to Stuttgart over the weekend to retro classics show, would be prepared to delay return to North Somerset and take a look on Monday if it helps. I'm assuming of course that your location is indicated by your posting name?

I believe that dual master cylinders are legal in UK, but you are not supposed to have a means of adjusting the balance from the driving seat, I will be looking for an MOT soon in order to register the 7 in UK so I guess I will find out then, because that's what I have. Pedal effort and travel is dependent on the relative surface area between master cylinder and brake cylinder/s pistons. If you have a master cylinder with a large piston surface area relative to brake caliper piston/s then you will have a short pedal travel but high pedal effort, and if its the other way round then you will have less pedal effort with a longer pedal travel. The second scenario offers more sensitive control over braking effort, the first can feel quite "wooden" in action. you can look at in the same way as a gear ratio.

Hi RJ, if you do a lot of track days and place high importance on well balanced brakes, then surely a dual master cylinder with balance bar set up would be ideal, then you can set the balance according to to your needs, track, road etc.

Yes Jonathan the air goes straight into the footwells, but its not so much pushed in by the scoops as sucked in by the negative cockpit pressure. Really helps to cool the feet. The OP was posting about cockpit temps?