Mcalvert
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Everything posted by Mcalvert
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smile.gif Michael.
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OK - so I'm a wuss for having a heater in my 91 Super-Sprint. Now that is out of the way, due to a faulty motor, the fan has been disconnected for the past year or so. Having finally bought a new motor, the time has come to reconnect it. The thing is, that I can't remember which of the various "unused" leads from the loom that this used to connect to. Could someone with a similar vintage car please take a peek and let me know what colour wires it uses? Thanks - Michael.
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I am not familiar with J.R. - this is a competing brand to K&N? As regards why they need changing, I was actually in the process of re-oiling them when I noticed that one of them is quite badly damaged in one area - I think from a very small carb fire (little more than a biot of smoke) a while ago. The metal gauze is still there, but the "stuffing" for want of a better word that is in the gauze has gone in one area. Obviously, this means that the filter is not filtering out the smaller particles in that area. I would never had noticed had I not removed them for cleaning, so it may be a good thing for others to check too. Their 1milllion mile guarantee or whatever it is does not necessarily cater for spitting crossflows! Regards - Michael.
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Does anyone know anywhere good (OK, cheap!) for replacement K&N air filters for my Crossflow, either in Bucks/Berks, or mail order? Thanks - Michael.
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Thanks for the offer Keith. I'm a bit far away in Berks though, unfortunatly. Looks like I've just got an excuse to spend some more money in our local tool shop though... Regards, Michael.
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Thanks for the advice, but you mentioned a tool that I am not familiar with - a Cone cutter. What would one of them look like??? Sorry for my ignorance, but I want to get this right! Regards -Michael.
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Caterham confirmed that the noses come without the fittings, so the holes need to be drilled etc. As you only get one chance to drill these accurately, I was hoping for any hints to transfer the position. Alternatively, if it's an easy job, please let me know so that I can stop worrying about it, and just place the order! (It's just a s standard fiberglass one, by the way - I'm not made of money unfortunately)... Regards, Michael.
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Having driven around with a cracked nose cone (covered by a stick on number-plate) after some "considerate" person backed into me whilst parked, I feel that now is the time to invest in a new nose cone. What is the procedure for fitting this, as the manual does not cover it? I assume that you have to measure the placing of the dzus clips - does anyone have any advice or tips? Thanks - Michael.
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I had exactly the same problem this weekend. Just pull the two spade connectors off of the switch, and touch them together to complete the circuit. If the brake lights come on (make sure that the ignition is on) then the problem is the switch. If it doesn't, then it's probably a dodgy earth. For me, it was a dead switch, which was a bugger, because I originally had the hydraulic sensor, and changed to the switch because it was supposed to be more reliable! Regards - Michael.
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What effect would angling the end of a side-exit exhausd downwards have? Would this reduce the noise because it would not be pointing directly towards the meter, or would it make it louder because of the reflections? I'd experiment if I had a sound-meter, but I don't! Regards - Michael.
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Aha - that explains it then... However, what exactly is the point of seeking out the loosest point? I want to get what is going on clear in my mind... Thanks. Michael.
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I am a getting conflicting advice re setting the tappets on my Xflow. I understand that this should be done with the engine cold, and that the clearances should be checked while pressing down on the valve stem to ensure that everything is seated properly. I have also been advised to roll the engine around by a few degrees to see if there are any points on the heel of the cam where the clearance gets tighter or looser. I was told that if it gets looser, then I should re-adjust the clearace at that point. However, I found a posting here which seems to suggest the opposite, that it should be adjusted to the tightest point. Any advice? Thanks - Michael.
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The Brooklands readings are posted here: http://www.lotus7club.co.uk/events/Brooklands/2001noise.htm However, these were drive-by readings, not static as measured at most tracks. I certainly have found that scrutineers at most tracks are more than happy to measure your car once the competitors have gone through on race days. Regards, Michael.
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Steve - Er, No! Perhaps not in one day... Seriously though - There does seem to be a lot of interest in this sort of thing. Now, we just need some technically minded individuals willing to spare a weekend day to get a few people together. I know that there are plenty of people tinkering in their garages most weekends - who fancies being joined by a few helpers? Michael.
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I couldn’t agree more, and it could even be a good earner for NTL. I would happily pay a donation to NTL to spend a day learning from some of the more mechanically minded club members, going through some of the more regular mechanical operations. Thins like: Routine servicing Checks before track days Changing A frame bushes Bleeding brakes Removing an engine Better still, the owner having this work done on his car could donate what he would have paid a mechanic to NTL also. What do you think? Anyone up for it, and willing to share their experience? Could even be fun… Michael.
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Ade - there is a nut under each headlamp bowl - you just loosen his off, adjust the bowl to the desited angle, and tighten it up again. A bit fiddly to get right, but easy in concept. Good luck, Michael. Edited by - Mcalvert on 21 Dec 2001 10:47:25 Edited by - Mcalvert on 21 Dec 2001 10:47:49
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I can answer this after having gone through frustrating times trying to get the paint code also. Caterham seemed to be less than willing to help out. You can buy small pots of matched paint from them, but not an aerosol. Tony Weales excellent book lists the colour as ;ICI 0438 (Post Office Red), B.S. 538”. However, I could not find any paint shops that could recognise this coding, and apparently there are several Post office reds. In the end, a helpful motor factors in Slough mixed me a tin, the formula for which was TB 40-61.0 11-65.3 54-82.4 59-101.7 Ive no idea what any of the above means, but it provided me with a perfect match (as far as I can see) against the paint on my 1991 SuperSprint. Hope that helps, Michael.
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Bob, Many motor factors can mix paints for you to a given spec, and it's not that expensive - 7 or 8 pounds if I remember properly. I suggest you try that as I could not find a car match that had that colour composition. Good luck, Michael.
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Hi, Here’s one question I can answer after having gone through frustrating times trying to get the paint code also. Caterham seemed to be less than willing to help out. You can buy small pots of matched paint from them, but not an aerosol. Tony Weale’s excellent book lists the colour as “ICI 0438 (Post Office Red), B.S. 538”. However, I could not find any paint shops that could recognise this coding, and apparently there are several “Post office” reds. In the end, a helpful motor factors in Slough mixed me a tin, the formula for which was TB 40-61.0 11-65.3 54-82.4 59-101.7 I’ve no idea what any of the above means, but it provided me with a perfect match (as far as I can see) against the paint on my ’91 SuperSprint. Hope that helps, Michael.
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Have you checked the fuses? You would think that with a blown fuse, all guages would drop to zero, but they don't always seem to. I had a similar problem recently, cured by a fuse change. Regards _ MIchael.
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I had 2 cables snap in my first year of ownership. I have found that the cure for me wat to ensure that the brass nipple is well greased at all times (oo-er). Otherwise, the nipple binds with the bolt at the top of the pedal, and instead of pivoting, it bends the cable each time the pedal is depressed, hence the cable snaps over time. It;s an easy job to pop the pedal cover off every few months and drop on a dab on grease to prevent the problem. As for replacing the cable, it's easy. Order a complete unit from Caterham. Just watch carefully where the esisting cable is routed and copy this with the new one. Adjustment of the cable length and pedal height is with the aid of the two nuts where the cable enters the clutch assembly. Good luck - Michael.
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Erm. Caterham ? ;-)
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Hi, The battery in my 1700SS seems to down on charge - I'm not getting the same enthousiasm on starting (althoug it does still succeed), and I have had some misrires at high revs which I feel may be down to poor spark? Can someone please provide some guidance re. how I should go about diagnosing whether it is the battery at fault, or the alternator down on efficiency. I have a multimeter, but would appreciate advice on what to look for, and what readings I should be looking for at different points. Thanks - Michael.
