Mcalvert

Aha - that explains it then...

However, what exactly is the point of seeking out the loosest point? I want to get what is going on clear in my mind...

Thanks. Michael.

I am a getting conflicting advice re setting the tappets on my Xflow. I understand that this should be done with the engine cold, and that the clearances should be checked while pressing down on the valve stem to ensure that everything is seated properly.

I have also been advised to roll the engine around by a few degrees to see if there are any points on the heel of the cam where the clearance gets tighter or looser. I was told that if it gets looser, then I should re-adjust the clearace at that point. However, I found a posting here which seems to suggest the opposite, that it should be adjusted to the tightest point.

Any advice?

Thanks - Michael.

I'll be more than happy to offer my 1700 X-Flow, De Dion for this!

Regards - Michael.

Definately interested.

More than happy to contribute to NTL for the privilege!

Michael.

The Brooklands readings are posted here: http://www.lotus7club.co.uk/events/Brooklands/2001noise.htm

However, these were drive-by readings, not static as measured at most tracks. I certainly have found that scrutineers at most tracks are more than happy to measure your car once the competitors have gone through on race days.

Regards,

Michael.

Steve - Er, No! Perhaps not in one day...

Seriously though - There does seem to be a lot of interest in this sort of thing. Now, we just need some technically minded individuals willing to spare a weekend day to get a few people together. I know that there are plenty of people tinkering in their garages most weekends - who fancies being joined by a few helpers?

Michael.

I couldn’t agree more, and it could even be a good earner for NTL.

I would happily pay a donation to NTL to spend a day learning from some of the more mechanically minded club members, going through some of the more regular mechanical operations. Thins like:

Routine servicing

Checks before track days

Changing A frame bushes

Bleeding brakes

Removing an engine

Better still, the owner having this work done on his car could donate what he would have paid a mechanic to NTL also. What do you think? Anyone up for it, and willing to share their experience? Could even be fun…

Michael.

Ade - there is a nut under each headlamp bowl - you just loosen his off, adjust the bowl to the desited angle, and tighten it up again. A bit fiddly to get right, but easy in concept.

Good luck,

Michael.

Edited by - Mcalvert on 21 Dec 2001 10:47:25

Edited by - Mcalvert on 21 Dec 2001 10:47:49

I can answer this after having gone through frustrating times trying to get the paint code also. Caterham seemed to be less than willing to help out. You can buy small pots of matched paint from them, but not an aerosol.

Tony Weales excellent book lists the colour as ;ICI 0438 (Post Office Red), B.S. 538”. However, I could not find any paint shops that could recognise this coding, and apparently there are several Post office reds.

In the end, a helpful motor factors in Slough mixed me a tin, the formula for which was

TB 40-61.0

11-65.3

54-82.4

59-101.7

Ive no idea what any of the above means, but it provided me with a perfect match (as far as I can see) against the paint on my 1991 SuperSprint.

Hope that helps,

Michael.

Bob,

Many motor factors can mix paints for you to a given spec, and it's not that expensive - 7 or 8 pounds if I remember properly. I suggest you try that as I could not find a car match that had that colour composition.

Good luck,

Michael.

Hi,

Here’s one question I can answer after having gone through frustrating times trying to get the paint code also. Caterham seemed to be less than willing to help out. You can buy small pots of matched paint from them, but not an aerosol.

Tony Weale’s excellent book lists the colour as “ICI 0438 (Post Office Red), B.S. 538”. However, I could not find any paint shops that could recognise this coding, and apparently there are several “Post office” reds.

In the end, a helpful motor factors in Slough mixed me a tin, the formula for which was

TB 40-61.0

11-65.3

54-82.4

59-101.7

I’ve no idea what any of the above means, but it provided me with a perfect match (as far as I can see) against the paint on my ’91 SuperSprint.

Hope that helps,

Michael.

Have you checked the fuses? You would think that with a blown fuse, all guages would drop to zero, but they don't always seem to.

I had a similar problem recently, cured by a fuse change.

Regards _ MIchael.

I had 2 cables snap in my first year of ownership.

I have found that the cure for me wat to ensure that the brass nipple is well greased at all times (oo-er).

Otherwise, the nipple binds with the bolt at the top of the pedal, and instead of pivoting, it bends the cable each time the pedal is depressed, hence the cable snaps over time. It;s an easy job to pop the pedal cover off every few months and drop on a dab on grease to prevent the problem.

As for replacing the cable, it's easy. Order a complete unit from Caterham. Just watch carefully where the esisting cable is routed and copy this with the new one. Adjustment of the cable length and pedal height is with the aid of the two nuts where the cable enters the clutch assembly.

Good luck - Michael.

Erm. Caterham ?

;-)

Hi,

The battery in my 1700SS seems to down on charge - I'm not getting the same enthousiasm on starting (althoug it does still succeed), and I have had some misrires at high revs which I feel may be down to poor spark?

Can someone please provide some guidance re. how I should go about diagnosing whether it is the battery at fault, or the alternator down on efficiency. I have a multimeter, but would appreciate advice on what to look for, and what readings I should be looking for at different points.

Thanks - Michael.

Steve - That rules me out then I'm afraid, but I'm sure there are others in your area who can help!

Regards,

Michael.

Steve - I really can't see why it wouldn't. As it's only a 30 second job to change, I am sure you could try someone else's before parting with hard earned cash. Where abouts are you?

Michael.

I changed from the old style grill to a 7 style one with no problem - this is on a 1991 Supersprint.

Michael.

They just lever off, and inevitably ping into the darkest recess of your garage...

Caterham sell them for a few pence - I don't know of any other sources I'm afraid.

Michael.

Colin - Hi.

I tried to drop you an e-mail but it got returned for some reason.

I would be very intersetd in your heater - It's actually on the fan motor that I need, but as long as this works OK, and does not rattle like my old one did in the later years of its life, that would be great. How much do you want for it?

Regards,

Michael

I need a fan motor for the "old" type caterham heater (recirculating). Anyone got one that they no longer need?

Thanks,

Michael.

Does anyone have access to the official rules regarding minimum legal tyre tread for the orad?

After Brooklands yesterday, I have some unique Yoko R21 slicks on the back which definitely need changing, and I think that the fronts may be getting marginal.

Thanks - Michael.

I used the same solution, but found that a cheap foam camping mat provided the padding.

Regards,

Michael.

As an experiment last week, I took my screen off completely - I loved it up to around 50mph, but found that the airflow straight into the face waws unfomfortable above that speed.

I suspect that had I had aeroscreens fitted, these would have carried most of the flow over my head? Are aeroscreens more efficient than the R500 type moulded items? They look great, but I can;t see how much airflow they would divert.

I guess I need to take some passenger rides at the next Caterham gathering, but opinions would be welcome.

Regards - Michael.

Typical, a few days before setting off for Le Mans, my car's stared playing up. As mechanical novice, I'd appreciate any advice…

Driving up to Silverstone yesterday, an intermittent rubbing noise stared up on the drivers side.

Jacking the car up when I got home, it appears to be from the front hub. The wheel still turns freely, but there is a definite squeak. Looking from the inside of the hub, there is some sort of felt washer which is disintegrating a bit and turning with the wheel, which it doesn’t on the other side. Nevertheless, it still appears to be providing a seal (I presume it's there to keep grit out of the hub?). I note also that the gap between the upright and the hub where this seal fits is about 1mm wider on the noisy side than the other.

The noise comes and goes and does not change when breaking, so does not seem to be a break pad binding. I can only therefore imaging that it's hub related.

Does anyone have any ideas what it is likely to be, and most importantly whether this is likely to deteriorate much on the Le Mans trip? I would normally drop the car into James Whiting's to check over, but I know that he's off this week. Is there anyone else who knows Sevens in the Maidenhead area?

Thanks - Michael.