Mcalvert

I bought my cleaning kit in that most exotic of automotive emporiums knows as Halfords in Slough...

T'was hidden on a shelf in the "wide boy" section...

Michael.

All,

Have just noticed that the SPA fire extinguisher which I fitted 3 years ago has now passed the "best before" date written on the side of it. Is it economically viable to have them refilled, or is it a chuck it away job?

If they can be re-primed, who offers this service in Berkshire/South East?

Thanks,

Michael.

I am considering fitting a set of ACES Shift lights to my 1700 Xflow to help get the most from my now more peaky engine. Can someone please help explain how these fit electrically. I understand that they can take their feed from the tacho, but as mine is the mechanical type, I guess that's a non-starter. Can you take a feed from the coil to determine the revs?

Thanks - Michael.

That would be Metal Mickey that you'r talking about (MIke Riley).

Don't know if he can help but his work is amazing, and he's a lovely chap with it. His number is 01298 83855.

Regards - Michael

Easy.

Firstly, wind them back all the way anti-clockwise, at which point the valves are fully opened and you are at the point of minimum damping. As you turn them clockwise to tighten them up, you will begin to feel the "clicks" - the first couple are normally rather indistinct, but become clearer after the first couple.

I find that my car works best with the fronts stiffer than the back by about two clicks - I run 6 front 4 back, but that's a matter of personal preference.

All the best - Michael.

This is great info - thanks for the link to Holden.

Can the Halogen lights be fitted without upgrading the wiring or do they draw more current?

Thanks - Michael.

Are these brighter lights available as replacements for the sealed units that I have on my 7?

Thanks,

Michael.

Hi,

I'm in Burnham, so only just down the road.

The obvious place for you is James Whiting in Ashford, Middlesex. - http://www.jameswhiting.co.uk/

Business seems to be booming for him and getting a slot is not always easy, but he's well known and respected and I'm sure could help.

All the best,

Michael.

Right - have just called Caterham and it's not available yet -July is the best guess.

No price available yet either, although around 200 pounds seemed to be the best guess.

Regards - Michael.

I have heard people saying that this is now available from Caterham. Does anyone have a price, and know what fitting one entails?

Thanks - Michael.

Sorry, now gone ;-(

Michael.

Have just upgraded Caterham brakes to 4 Pot Alcon, hence have the standad Caterham calipers unused in the garage.

They are perfectly serviceable, and free to a good home (although a few quid to NTL would be nice) if anyone can use them.

Regards,

Michael.

I sourced it from Caterham at an exhorbitent price.

I then saw a number of identical looking items at the Stoneleigh kit car show. I didn't have the heart to ask the price, because I don't think that I wanted to know the answer...

Regards - Michael.

That would be great, thanks.

What I really need to know is the colour of the wires that leave the loom under the dash and go through the bulkhead. The wires that go into the motor itself are probably just extensions of these, but I want to be sure.

Thanks again - Michael.

smile.gif

Michael.

OK - so I'm a wuss for having a heater in my 91 Super-Sprint.

Now that is out of the way, due to a faulty motor, the fan has been disconnected for the past year or so. Having finally bought a new motor, the time has come to reconnect it.

The thing is, that I can't remember which of the various "unused" leads from the loom that this used to connect to. Could someone with a similar vintage car please take a peek and let me know what colour wires it uses?

Thanks - Michael.

I am not familiar with J.R. - this is a competing brand to K&N?

As regards why they need changing, I was actually in the process of re-oiling them when I noticed that one of them is quite badly damaged in one area - I think from a very small carb fire (little more than a biot of smoke) a while ago. The metal gauze is still there, but the "stuffing" for want of a better word that is in the gauze has gone in one area. Obviously, this means that the filter is not filtering out the smaller particles in that area. I would never had noticed had I not removed them for cleaning, so it may be a good thing for others to check too.

Their 1milllion mile guarantee or whatever it is does not necessarily cater for spitting crossflows!

Regards - Michael.

Does anyone know anywhere good (OK, cheap!) for replacement K&N air filters for my Crossflow, either in Bucks/Berks, or mail order?

Thanks - Michael.

Thanks for the offer Keith. I'm a bit far away in Berks though, unfortunatly. Looks like I've just got an excuse to spend some more money in our local tool shop though...

Regards,

Michael.

Thanks for the advice, but you mentioned a tool that I am not familiar with - a Cone cutter. What would one of them look like???

Sorry for my ignorance, but I want to get this right!

Regards -Michael.

Caterham confirmed that the noses come without the fittings, so the holes need to be drilled etc.

As you only get one chance to drill these accurately, I was hoping for any hints to transfer the position. Alternatively, if it's an easy job, please let me know so that I can stop worrying about it, and just place the order! (It's just a s standard fiberglass one, by the way - I'm not made of money unfortunately)...

Regards,

Michael.

Having driven around with a cracked nose cone (covered by a stick on number-plate) after some "considerate" person backed into me whilst parked, I feel that now is the time to invest in a new nose cone.

What is the procedure for fitting this, as the manual does not cover it? I assume that you have to measure the placing of the dzus clips - does anyone have any advice or tips?

Thanks - Michael.

I had exactly the same problem this weekend. Just pull the two spade connectors off of the switch, and touch them together to complete the circuit. If the brake lights come on (make sure that the ignition is on) then the problem is the switch. If it doesn't, then it's probably a dodgy earth. For me, it was a dead switch, which was a bugger, because I originally had the hydraulic sensor, and changed to the switch because it was supposed to be more reliable!

Regards - Michael.

What effect would angling the end of a side-exit exhausd downwards have? Would this reduce the noise because it would not be pointing directly towards the meter, or would it make it louder because of the reflections?

I'd experiment if I had a sound-meter, but I don't!

Regards - Michael.