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Posts posted by Mcalvert
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Well- I did say that that there were conflicting views on this one.
I've now had -
Apply Dry
Apply Wet
Apply Damp
Spray
Don't Spray!!!
I think I'll just content myself with the fact that there are different ways of doing this job and hope it goes smoothly however I do it!
I think I'll try to apply it damp (because that makes sense) and probably not spray it, because I don;t have any spray
Thanks all for your input - Michael.
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I run my car permanently wihout ane xhaust gasket, just a tiny smear of paste. This is what James Whiting swears by and I've had no problems. The logic is that with a gasket fitted, when you tighten down the bolts into the head, this very slightly distorts the face of the exhaust manifold - this then causes the weak spot in the middle where the gasket fails again in the future.
I had the face of the manifold planished flat and then have not used a gasket since and it's been good like that for 3 years now. Mind you, I'm disturbing the manifold this weekend to fit eshaust lagging, so I'd better touch wood that it goes back on as well
Good luck - Michael.
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Alternatively, could be the exhaust manifold gasket blowing, which I used to have regularly and made a sound like you describe. Put your hand aroud the point where the exhaust manifold meets the block and see if you can't detect gasses escaping (Normally it's the centre 2 pipes where the gasket goes)
Careful though - it's HOT 😳 😳
Best of luck - Michael.
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Instructions
LUXURY!
Mine cae without any, so thanks for your input!
Michael.
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So, that's
1 x No
1 x Yes
1 x wet
1 x dry.
I'll take my pick
So, it'll simply go on dry and not need painting/sealing/spraying or anything else afterwards.
Simple
Thanks All - Michael
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Sinple answer to a simple question
One more then, is it better applied dry or wet?
Thanks
Michael.
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Hopefully a simple question:
Does Cooltek Exhaust Lagging need spraying afterwards? I have heard contradictory things about this.
If it does need spraying, what do I need to ask for, and is it easily available at motor factors?
Thanks! Michael.
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I'm looking for a book that can help me get my head around setting the suspension up on my 7 - does anyone have any suggestions? I'm looking for something that I can understand without a degree in physics and maths hopefully
Thanks - Michael.
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Sounds good Steve - thanks for keeping us updated!
Regards - Michael.
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Thanks All - Exhaust wrap ordered and I'll let you know how I get on.
As recommended by Roger King, Wilcox does manufacture a nylon Alternator arm - picture here for those who are interested: http://www.wilcoxengines.demon.co.uk/bda_parts.htm
I just need to work out exactly what I need - is it just the arm, or also the stud?
Regards - Michael.
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Great news Sid - wha have you decided on?
Michael.
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Thanks all for the input
I forgot to thank Peter for taking my call on a Saturday afternoon from France and helping guide me towards the root cause (as I wasn't convinced that the alternator was at fault this time). I will re-check the live feed, thanks for the reminder.
So - lagging the pipes seems to be a must - any supplier recommendations? I'll also go for the nylon bracket as that seems a good precaution.
Are alternators rated for a particular maximum speed? I'd like to work out what speed mine would be spinning at with its current gearing with the engine hitting the red-line at 7,300 and see how much inside or outside of the maximum this is.
Thanks again,
Michael.
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Thanks Roger - that's a good pointer - Do you have any contact details please?
Thanks - Michael.
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Having blown two alternators recently, I want to try to prevent this appening again. The car is a 1700 Xflow, and both failures happend after prolonged high-speed and high revs running (first at Cadwell track day, second when taking passengers on fast road trips in Bordeaux).
I have checked the earth connections and these seem good. My assumptions therefore are that the failures can only be due to 1) excessive heat, 2) excessive speed or 3) excessive vibrations.
Therefore, I plan to:
1) Lag the exhause manifolds - I remember a thread recently about the best source for lagging but without the search option, cannot find this. Can someone please point me towards the best supplier?
2) Fit a larger pulley on the alternator to reduce its speed. However, I am having problems finding a source - does anyone have any ideas?
3) Not sure about reducing vibrations - can anything be done here?
Oh, and 4) I'll get a spare to carry to carry with me to track days. Is this a Halfords job or is there somewhere that will sell me an alternator cheaper?
Thanks for your help,
Michael.
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No, but Redline in Caterham supplied one to me a couple of months ago - might be worth a try?
Michael.
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Hi Steve,
How is the manufacturing coming along - I'm looking forward to the news...
Michael.
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Thanks Chris - that makes a lot of sense and may help explain part of why my car tends towards understeer.
Does anyone have any recommendations towards good books on suspension theory that I could use to learn more of the basics?
Thanks - Michael.
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I am keen to revise the suspension on my 1991 De Dion Crossflow to improve turn-in, with at minimum new springs and dampers, upper wishbones and front ARB.
However, my car has never had a rear ARB fitted and I’m trying to understand what benefits adding one would bring. I understand that fitting a rear ARB would increase the overall chassis roll resistance, but can someone please explain the benefits of doing this via ARBs front and back rather than relying at one end only.
Thanks!
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OOps- double post. MC
Edited by - mcalvert on 4 Jul 2003 15:19:50
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Myles - It's EP90 oil, and you fill it up until it spills out of the filler hole (not very scientific, and rather messy, but there you go).
I went to a tool shop and bought a metal plunger type thing that you can use to squirt oil up a tube which goes through the filler hole which was a great investment for a tenner.
regards - Michael.
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CALVERT ❗ I SAW THAT.
IN MY OFFICE AFTER CLASS.
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CALVERT ❗ ❗ ❗ (That's Tam that is...)
DO SOME WORK
MC
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Mocal make nice annodised ones.
Alternatively, I seem to remember seeing some very similar ones but cheaper at Autocross, London Rd Bracknell which isn't a million miles from you... Michael.
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"The cheque's in the post" as they say... MC
Spa mirrors
in TechTalk
Posted
Assuming that they're the same as mine, you take them off (2 screws or bolts) and there's a large grub screw on the back which you tighten using an allan key. A bit of locite to hold it wouldn't go amiss here.
Michael.