Mcalvert
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Everything posted by Mcalvert
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Hmm - I seem to remember an article in LF a few years about someone doing just this conversion... I'll check - Michael.
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No wiper rack meant that a bracket was left off the chassis. Oh, that must have been worth a few tens of grammes... MC
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Sorry Mark but looks like there's been a mistake somewhere - Tam and I should be down as class 3... Michael.
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Thanks Adrian but I have decided that I just had a bad set and have ordered some standard pads from Caterham. I've also invested in a wind-back tool, so will hopefully be fitting them at the weekend! Michael.
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I have pulled the wores off the air temp sensor which is part of the Alpha 3D ignition kit. Is it going to matter which way these are reconnected, as there is no apparent marking? Thanks - Michael.
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Paul - Oh yes I have (blush smiley needed here). Spot the difference with the picture posted by Phil (apart from the fact that his was in focus) here Oh well, it was quicker getting the engine in and out the second time Thanks for the help in diagnosing the problem! Michael. Edited by - Mcalvert on 17 Feb 2007 18:10:19
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If you feel behind the tacho, you should find that there are two bolts which protrube backwards, one on the left, one on the right. Onto these screw two bolts, which press a three sided metal clamp onto the dash. If you undo the two bolts, the clamp will fall away. You then just need to undo the (3?) cables which fit onto the back of the tacho via press on spade connectors and the tacho will pull out through the dash... Regards - Michael.
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BTW, have just seen in a post below, someone calling himself a numptie. I think I deserve that accolade most today 😳 Numptie!
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Oh, BUGGER ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ The problem will be my having put the CRB BEHIND the fork rather than in front of it. That would explain the problem. DOH! Oh well, a second beer may help calm me down Thanls for your input - I think I MAY just know where I went wrong. Some days just aren't meant to be... Michael.
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Really frustrating day today trying to get the gearbox, engine and Diff back in (1700 Xflow). One of those days when no bolt ever lines up first or even second time. Anyway, have finally got all three in and have tried to reconnect the clutch cable, only even when adjusting both ends to the max, it won't reach the flutch fork. When I try to put a lever behind the clutch fork to bring it forward, it won't budge. What could I have done wrong? I did replace the CRB and refit the fork - is there anything I could have done wrong here? Is it possible to fit the fork the wrong way around for example? Thanks - Michael (now having a beer and starting to calm down) ❗
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I would cut out the middle man and call Phil at Road and Race Transmissions - I believe he does most of the LSD work for Caterham and is a thoroughly nice guy too... Road & Race Transmissions The Bullock Shed Filston Farm Shoreham, Kent TN14 5JU tel: 01959 525105 mobile: 07836 333882 regards - Michael.
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Thanks! How can I tell if I have broken mine? Can you see from the photo that I have attached? To be honest, I don't know what I am looking at! Any idea of approximate cost if it comes to the worsl? Thanks - Michael
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I am removing my fuel tank and have undone the two wires to the fuel level sender. One wire was a ring connector under one of the screws - the other was a ring connector under a nut onto a bolt. When I tried to remove this nut (see here) I find that this part (what is it?) is just a light press fit into the sender. How should this be as I have always been concerned about electrickery mixing with petrol and wouldn't want to get it wrong! Thanks - Michael. Edited by - Mcalvert on 31 Jan 2007 20:03:52
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Thanks mark - probably 6" all round - the car's a 155bhp Xflow and I don't think that I'd benefit from the wider rims at the rear? Thanks - Michael.
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Probably, yes - where would I find a calculator to work out the change in diameter and ride height? Thanks - Michael.
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As per the title, what weight loss per corner would I get if I swapped from 13" Minator om 185/60R13 Yoko 48s t0 13 Caterham 8 spoke wheels on CR500s? Also, are CR 500s only available from Caterham, or is there anywhere more in the Berkshire area that supplies/fits them? Thanks - Michael.
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Apparently not, or so I was told at Caterham yesterday. Regards, Michael,.
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My car is a 1991 Supersprint and was one of the age that did not have a proper A frame, but a pair of trailing arms. I believe from speaking with James Whiting in the past that a popular upgrade was having a "cross" piece welded/brazed in to make this from a "V" shape to an "A". However, when I dropped in to Caterham this afternoon to pick up some parts, they said that it would not make much/any difference. Has anyone else done this mod? (car is used for sprints, trackdays & touring) Regards. Michael.
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At the moment, I run Grean Stuff front pads in Alcon calipers at the front and standard Caterham pads at the rear. I have noticed that the pads seem to have been dragging recently, and when removing the rear pads yesterday, I was surprised to find that the surface was not smooth like I expected but pitted, and in fact, seemed to be breaking up slightly. You can easily rub the surface and material falls away here Is this normal? If not, should I just replace with more of the same or are there any other pads that I should consider? (car used for track days, sprints and touring. I have to say that since the upgrade to Alcon on the front, I have been overall satisfied with the brake performance on track. Thanks! Michael.
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Looked and sounded nice - anyone from here? Michael.
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This month's LF had an advert from Specialist Components advertising ram pipes for Weber DCOEs promising "5% increase in air flow at mid range, rising to 8% at full throttle" Is this the carb equavalent of snake oil, or can a third party design a ram pipe better suited to the Caterham application than the standard Weber part? Michael.
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problem sorted (probably, will test in the morning)! Thanks Mark - Michael.
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Thanks Mark - I thought about that, but I can;t see how it can. The back of the gauge has the typical plastic socket going into it from the loom, so I can't see how I'd piggy-back into that? It was working before I took it apart, so there must be something obvious, but I can't find a spare connector anywhere 🤔
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I have had all my switcheds and guages out to clean and paint the dash. Putting it all back together again and I have a "spare" wire I have a switch which switches between water and oil temperature on the standard Caterham gauge. My unconnected wire goes from the central of the three posts on the switch. The wire on the left goes to the oil temperature sender, the wire on the right goes into the loom and I assume to the water temp sender. The middle wire obviously needs to make a circuit for it to work, but where should it be connected to? Thanks - Michael (aka electrical dunce)
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Another popular choice is from SPA - available in flat and convex here Regards - Michael.
