Mcalvert

I would cut out the middle man and call Phil at Road and Race Transmissions - I believe he does most of the LSD work for Caterham and is a thoroughly nice guy too...

Road & Race Transmissions

The Bullock Shed

Filston Farm

Shoreham, Kent

TN14 5JU

tel: 01959 525105

mobile: 07836 333882

regards - Michael.

Thanks! How can I tell if I have broken mine? Can you see from the photo that I have attached? To be honest, I don't know what I am looking at!

Any idea of approximate cost if it comes to the worsl?

Thanks - Michael

I am removing my fuel tank and have undone the two wires to the fuel level sender. One wire was a ring connector under one of the screws - the other was a ring connector under a nut onto a bolt. When I tried to remove this nut (see here) I find that this part (what is it?) is just a light press fit into the sender.

How should this be as I have always been concerned about electrickery mixing with petrol and wouldn't want to get it wrong!

Thanks - Michael.

Edited by - Mcalvert on 31 Jan 2007 20:03:52

Thanks mark - probably 6" all round - the car's a 155bhp Xflow and I don't think that I'd benefit from the wider rims at the rear?

Thanks - Michael.

Probably, yes - where would I find a calculator to work out the change in diameter and ride height?

Thanks - Michael.

As per the title, what weight loss per corner would I get if I swapped from 13" Minator om 185/60R13 Yoko 48s t0 13 Caterham 8 spoke wheels on CR500s?

Also, are CR 500s only available from Caterham, or is there anywhere more in the Berkshire area that supplies/fits them?

Thanks -

Michael.

Apparently not, or so I was told at Caterham yesterday.

Regards,

Michael,.

My car is a 1991 Supersprint and was one of the age that did not have a proper A frame, but a pair of trailing arms. I believe from speaking with James Whiting in the past that a popular upgrade was having a "cross" piece welded/brazed in to make this from a "V" shape to an "A". However, when I dropped in to Caterham this afternoon to pick up some parts, they said that it would not make much/any difference.

Has anyone else done this mod? (car is used for sprints, trackdays & touring)

Regards.

Michael.

At the moment, I run Grean Stuff front pads in Alcon calipers at the front and standard Caterham pads at the rear.

I have noticed that the pads seem to have been dragging recently, and when removing the rear pads yesterday, I was surprised to find that the surface was not smooth like I expected but pitted, and in fact, seemed to be breaking up slightly. You can easily rub the surface and material falls away here Is this normal? If not, should I just replace with more of the same or are there any other pads that I should consider? (car used for track days, sprints and touring. I have to say that since the upgrade to Alcon on the front, I have been overall satisfied with the brake performance on track.

Thanks!

Michael.

Looked and sounded nice - anyone from here?

Michael.

This month's LF had an advert from Specialist Components advertising ram pipes for Weber DCOEs promising "5% increase in air flow at mid range, rising to 8% at full throttle"

Is this the carb equavalent of snake oil, or can a third party design a ram pipe better suited to the Caterham application than the standard Weber part?

Michael.

problem sorted (probably, will test in the morning)!

Thanks Mark - Michael.

Thanks Mark - I thought about that, but I can;t see how it can. The back of the gauge has the typical plastic socket going into it from the loom, so I can't see how I'd piggy-back into that?

It was working before I took it apart, so there must be something obvious, but I can't find a spare connector anywhere 🤔

I have had all my switcheds and guages out to clean and paint the dash. Putting it all back together again and I have a "spare" wire

I have a switch which switches between water and oil temperature on the standard Caterham gauge. My unconnected wire goes from the central of the three posts on the switch. The wire on the left goes to the oil temperature sender, the wire on the right goes into the loom and I assume to the water temp sender. The middle wire obviously needs to make a circuit for it to work, but where should it be connected to?

Thanks - Michael (aka electrical dunce)

Another popular choice is from SPA - available in flat and convex here

Regards - Michael.

I have had one for the past couple of years.

My reason for changing is that I have fairly large valves and twice previously suffered cracks between inlet & exhaust ports of a standard head. The ally head is better designed to prevent this problem, and so far so good. I know that you can go fairly crazy on valve sizes on the ally head but I am sure at the expense of reliability.

There's a serious weight saving too...

Michael.

First time I've had a chance to pit the GTI against a 7. Much as the Golf is a fabulous car, I have to admit that there's no comparison

Michael.

I was the nut trying to keep up in the Golf GTI behind you.

Brightened up my trip in

Michael.

I was the nut trying to keep up in the Golf GTI behind you.

Brightened up my trip in

Michael.

That would have been me Tam had "stolen" the tintop, leaving me no choice but to take the 7 to work. Nice day for it

Michael.

Big for Southern Carbs - they definitely will do the refurb for you, or just sell the refurb kits if you want to do it yourself..

Michael.

Yes please if you do it again

Michael.

I can personally attest that saidTam is being plied with Champagne, that dinner is being cooked, that the pile of presents liiks like the N. face of the Eiger and that 23 is looking like a good age to be

MC

Aargh - it pains me greatly to say this, but you need the dash designer on this Westfield site here

Just don't choose the "wood veneer" option - Please 😬

Michael.

Edited by - Mcalvert on 4 Oct 2006 08:41:48