Mcalvert

Thanks Rob - interest has been logged

Michael.

Bad Luck ☹️ Bloody stupid animals aren't they (mind you, they're bred for being shot rather than Master Mind I suppose).

We had exactly the same thing a couple of years ago. It was only when I took the engine out for a rebuild that I got rid of the very last of the roasted pheasant...

Michael.

The only thing is that they are good engine people, but not 7 specialists, so you would need to get the engine out and down to them, or have someone do that for you.

However, I can vouch for their building a good engine at a fairly reasonable price...

Best of luck and let us know how you get on!

Michael.

Bad luck ☹️

Anyway, may be a bit far south for you, but all my Xflow work has been done by Vulcan Engineering in Uxbridge here

Best of luck getting back on the road quickly... Michael.

Dave - let me know when you want the engine hoist and I'll drop it over. I'll do my best to come and help/hinder depending on dates.

All the best - Michael.

Phil - yes it is - I had James Whiting do this for me a couple of years ago.

Oh, and you have Blatmail.

Michael.

Also available from Frost's here part D205

You can put it on a hand held drill, but as you only have 2 hands, it is so much easier on a desk mounted machine, either a clamp for the drill or a grinder, which can be had quite cheaply from B&Q etc...

Michael.

Woohoo Spotted

Michael.

Will Gary do set-up on cars other than with the Freestyle suspension?

Thanks - Michael.

I'm looking for someone good to do a flat floor & full geometry set up on my 7 before the sprint season gets going. Any idea what sort of cost they would ask for?

Thanks - Michael.

I did this a few months back - soaked the harnesses in a solution of hot water and washing powder for a while, then attacked with Fairy and a nail brush.

The amount of muck that came off was quite impressive and although they don't look "as new" they're a LOT better than before.

Michael.

I just used a manual "pump" syphon available from most motor-factors at about £4 to empty my fuel tank recently. I did then find that to get the tank out, the roll-bar has to come off althout I since heard that it is apparently possible to drop it out from below?

Michael.

Thanks Steve - so it is possible

I have not been aboe to find 45 degree plyers - I may have to look out for some. I managed to get what I through twas the circlip in a total of 3 times today, but it can;t have been right in obviously

The last straw was when a gust of wind picked up the bonnet, flipped it over and put a few good scratches on it. Game over for the day.

Does anyone know about the cable orientation also?

Thanks - Michael.

I expected it to be difficult to fit a speedo drive woith the gearbox & engine installed, but hoped it would not be impossible. After a day on my back with a small pair of right angled circlip plyers, I've given up for the day

Is there any knack that anyone can pass on?

Also, on the speedo cable, is the end for with the brass "stop" meant to go on the speedo end, or the drive end?

Thanks - Michael.

Sorry Mark but looks like there's been a mistake somewhere - Tam and I should be down as class 3...

Michael.

Thanks Adrian but I have decided that I just had a bad set and have ordered some standard pads from Caterham. I've also invested in a wind-back tool, so will hopefully be fitting them at the weekend!

Michael.

I have pulled the wores off the air temp sensor which is part of the Alpha 3D ignition kit. Is it going to matter which way these are reconnected, as there is no apparent marking?

Thanks - Michael.

Paul - Oh yes I have (blush smiley needed here).

Spot the difference with the picture posted by Phil (apart from the fact that his was in focus) here

Oh well, it was quicker getting the engine in and out the second time

Thanks for the help in diagnosing the problem!

Michael.

Edited by - Mcalvert on 17 Feb 2007 18:10:19

If you feel behind the tacho, you should find that there are two bolts which protrube backwards, one on the left, one on the right. Onto these screw two bolts, which press a three sided metal clamp onto the dash. If you undo the two bolts, the clamp will fall away. You then just need to undo the (3?) cables which fit onto the back of the tacho via press on spade connectors and the tacho will pull out through the dash...

Regards - Michael.

BTW, have just seen in a post below, someone calling himself a numptie.

I think I deserve that accolade most today 😳

Numptie!

Oh, BUGGER ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ The problem will be my having put the CRB BEHIND the fork rather than in front of it.

That would explain the problem.

DOH! Oh well, a second beer may help calm me down

Thanls for your input - I think I MAY just know where I went wrong. Some days just aren't meant to be...

Michael.

Really frustrating day today trying to get the gearbox, engine and Diff back in (1700 Xflow). One of those days when no bolt ever lines up first or even second time.

Anyway, have finally got all three in and have tried to reconnect the clutch cable, only even when adjusting both ends to the max, it won't reach the flutch fork. When I try to put a lever behind the clutch fork to bring it forward, it won't budge.

What could I have done wrong? I did replace the CRB and refit the fork - is there anything I could have done wrong here? Is it possible to fit the fork the wrong way around for example?

Thanks - Michael (now having a beer and starting to calm down) ❗