mikes

I would also like to add my thanks to all those who made the day possible. I would especially like to thank whoever had the inspired idea of arranging the rain to have a serious effect just after my run - I must have better connections than I thought! I doubt I will be repeating my result of 2nd in class 2 in the other sprints though! Mike

I have a solid state Facet on my rebuilt 140BHP cross flow and it is OK so far. It is a fairly recent addition, replacing the mechanical one, and has only been in place for 1000 miles or so, but that has now included some track use. It was suggested to me by RK and the 7 Workshop that they appeared to be more reliable than the other type of Facets - at least you can hear it ticking before you startup! Hope this helps a bit. Mike

Thanks for the comments. I am slightly reassured. No, it didn't really have time to warm up, but I am sure it used to drop down at idle even when cold. I think the reading is up at 4-5 bar. The engine has only recently been rebuilt (by Roger King and very good too)with a high capacity oil pump, run in and rolling roaded and I think it did the usual things then. On Monday it was given a bit of a hammering at Cadwell and I noticed the unusual reading when checking it over (just as well because the alternator was about to fall off) on the following evening. Mike

When I started up last night I noticed that the oil pressure showed the usual high reading but failed to drop down when the engine was idling. The needle on the gauge seemed to give the odd twitch but otherwise stayed up at the normal high value. When the ignition is switched of and on again the reading is zero as you would expect. Any ideas if this is likely to be a sender unit, gauge, earthing or a real problem? I have an AVO meter so can I usefully check the output from the sender unit to see if it is working properly? Mike

Midnight, thanks for that. Yes it is the little square type. Certainly they say that it should be kept away from the heat of the engine bay and I will look again at the instructions to see if it sucks as well as it blows!From what I have read it can be pretty useful to have good access to some pumps as they can be unreliable. Regards Mike

I am soon to fit my 'refreshed' 1700 x/f and have decided to replace the fuel pump with the Facet solid state one. Don't bother telling me I should have got another type because I already have it! The question is - where to site it near the tank. I have been shown (thanks Chris)that they seem to be usually fixed to the rear bulkhead - roughly behind where the passenger seat is. On my tank with the exit pipe at the top of the tank I reckon it would be a much straighter line if I fixed it to the underside of the boot, either to the ply or ali. It would be less than 12 inches above the bottom of the tank as stated in the instructions so should be OK. This would also mean much less fuel pipework in the area. Any thoughts on this? The other question is whether the earth is good enough by connecting to the mounting bracket if it is fixed to the ali panel? Mike

Never done a hillclimb before and only a couple of sprints...oh yes, and I haven't got an engine at the moment, but it sounds very interesting. I have pencilled into the diary. Mike

Many thanks for the comments. I am glad there seems to be agreement about separating it from the gearbox before removal, because at least that makes the decision easier. Good idea about protecting the chassis tubes. So far I have only got as far as the penetrating oil on the exhaust studs bit to see if it works, but the engine won't come out until the end of December - there must be some good weekend blatting days left before Christmas - even with a slightly knackered crossflow! I suppose the other thing is to try and collect advice about putting it back in. Any advice on best ways to line it all up again? Mike

I am going to take the engine out for a rebuild over the Winter and, not having done this sort of thing before, need some advice on the best way to tackle it. I have read on other threads that some recommend removing the engine and gearbox as a single unit, but other advice is to split them before removal. The car is a 1989 1700 DeDion 5 speed if that is any help. I am just about capable of getting all the ancillary bits off (but still not confident of removing exhaust manifold studs that have not been shifted since the car was new by the look of them) but any help would be welcome. Thanks Mike

The Manual, when you get it, says 20psi. I use the same tyre size and have tried various pressures around that. It seems to me that this is about right for road use. I imagine it depends a lot on the tyre type. My previous set were Michelin Pilots which did last a long time but I eventually manager to remove the tread from the nearside front after a couple of years of track days. They have the deserved reputation of being long lasting - but a bit lacking in grip - quite true. I did however have the distinction of being told by one of the scrutineers at a club sprints that I was the only person there with those tyres though! I can safely say getting new tyres can be one of the best investments you can make. Mike

Mine has got to 28K and now smokes a bit (like the owner) and breathes heavily when exercised, again just like.... It has had an increasing track day use over the last couple of years and a sprint or two and it has got to the stage where on track days I have to empty the oil catch tank at least once, and I can tell you it gets pretty hot! Despite this, it has been completely trouble free and until the excessive smoking problem I had no plans to do much to it. I had been advised though, which seemed pretty sensible, that this was a sign of wear and or something breaking and it would be advisable to get it checked. I like many others have been to Roger King to consult on the rebuilding and have convinced myself that it is worth getting a few extras to a straight rebuild - don't we all? I usually use 4 prods and then hope to catch it before the battery gives up in the Winter time. Summer is usually no trouble. I got given a manual from Caterham for my 1989 De Dion Supersprint when I bought it second hand from them. e-mail me if you would like a copy at msankey@merckpharma.co.uk Mike

Thanks for the advice. From the way it looked it appeared that the 1/2" bolt actually went through the mounting rubber and bolted into the chassis. I see now that this would be rather stupid and would somewhat defeat the point of the mount rubber. I think it was the way the bolt had rubbed against the top of the chassis that made it look like it should be bolted through there. I am much relieved that all I now need is a new rubber. Mike

On my ’89 xflow I thought I just had a broken right hand side engine mount. I could see that the bottom arm of the tubing had broken near to the engine. When I removed the broken mount I found that the main bolt which goes through the rubber mount has sheared at the level of the chassis tubing. Does anybody have any ideas about how to remove this remaining bit of threaded bolt from the chassis? Mike ☹️