Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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I know 2 owners who tried this with their road-going 7's. The 1st didn't enjoy it at all & found stop start traffic a nightmare: probably lasted a month. The second lasted about 15 miles before changing back! Nice garage ornaments though! However if yours is only used for racing then why not. However normal track days are much different to racing & a road clutch will suffice.
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Linky here!
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I've got RS15's on the front (Alcon 4 pots.) & 14's on the back. No problem stopping the car on cold brakes.
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NGK Spark Plug Guide
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Oil stats can be sourced from Think Auto: here. Remember to ask for club discount.
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Duratec R400 Dry Sumped - How to check oil level?
Mick Day replied to spiderlane's topic in TechTalk
Dry-sump systems need oil levels checked with the engine running or within 30 seconds of switching off. Having been around others who checked cold systems & seen the subsequent mess after the scavenge pumps had done their duty.................................... Good rust proofing method though!...... -
Having used both clutches on my car the AP clutch is not much heavier than the original Quinton Hazell offering.
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have a look here about half way down the page.
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Although I run a GEMS ECU on the K series the lead & software is bespoke to the unit. Personally I'd switch to an Emerald as you'll be underwhelmed by the user friendliness of the DOS based software & manual. If you would like a copy of my manual blatmail me your email & I'll send it to you.
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The over the wipers option means you have to remove the wiper mechanism from under the dash. You need the behind option.
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I have to echo Mark's diagnosis as I had exactly the same problem a few years back. Gearbox to Phil Stewart at Road & Race is the best way forward (sorry for the pun!). If you phone him in advance, & get there 1st thing in the morning, he may be able to have it ready for you in the afternoon. You could combine it with a shopping trip or a trip into London.
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......or you could just buy a new wishbone after cutting the damper free???
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Arhh so that's why my car & trailer ended up in a tree at Beaune back in 2000. Do you remember Roger; on one of Gerry's Le-Circuit trips? Luckily damage restricted to bent number plate bracket! A tip to get the brakes into auto reverse up a hill: reverse with a little gusto & it pushes the shoes off the drums. Makes one hell of a noise though as the wheels try to lock-up before the shoes release.
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Porsches have a belt missing indicator. Basically it's a switch that incorporates a wheel that runs on the belt. No belt & the switch illuminates a light. Half way down this page is a reasonable picture. HERE. You could fabricate a bracket to run this switch/sensor.
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Well done Roger, see you in Pau.
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.............or take the calliper off & undo the bottom joint, then rotate upright around top joint.
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....and at what temperature is it running? If the fan is switched from the ECU then this is the most efficient way to do it: putting a thermoswitch into the rad just introduces something else to go wrong. Is the ECU user programmable? It may be that someone has re-set the on/off values incorrectly.
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I would check the alternator bearing as they might be seizing.
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I did this swap in 2000 & yes the loom had to be modified. But I'm using a GEMS ECU which only offers one mode of injector firing, & that is the opposite to my 1994 MEMS. So the question is if the Emerald can be switched from group to simultaneous (from rough memory are those the 2 options?) & can be correctly programmed to pick up the tooth pattern why doesn't it work? Maybe a chat with Karl at Emerald?
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. It did with my engine in 2002 when I uprated the cylinder head. I went from a 88 to to 78 & Steve Greenauld had no end of problems getting the thing up to a reasonable temperature. He said ditch it for the 82 version. Incidentally my ECU switches the fan on at 86 & off at 84. The SPA gauge seems to sit all day at about 78 & the ECU reading when connected to the PC shows about 3 degrees higher. (Which is correct? Probably neither! ). The fan rarely comes on, usually only whilst stationary in traffic. The highest temp I've seen was on a hot day grinding up a mountain pass behind an artic & then the water temp got to 90.
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Don't use the 78 C thermostat as it'll never warm up properly in our climate: it'll be like a stuck open thermostat all over again. Use the 82 C version, Halfords HTK 605. To check if it's stuck start the engine from cold & check the temp of the rad. Will get warm far too quickly if stuck open. Ditch the rad thermoswitch & get the fan switched from the ECU.
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Not a good idea to put it in the dishwasher: bellhousing came out OK but expansion tank made it smell enough for SWMBO to notice...........
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I got so fed up with mine (it leaked as well) that I removed it & fitted the Ford "bung" to seal it up. Costs about £5. I then bought a VDO electronic speedo that matches the older VDO gauges with the sensor on the front wheel. Is it not possible to ditch the gearbox drive & run the electronic Caterham speedo off a sensor on the front wheel?
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My 1994 car has them.
