Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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Pierre Yes it does. Mick
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Are you sure you can hear a click from the ECU, it could be a click from the starter (overcooked) solenoid. Let everything cool down & try again. Check the ECU fuse as this can blow if you keep trying a dead starter. If everything is OK try a push start. Mick
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Search the archives cos there's plenty on this topic. No template available from Caterham when I bought therefore cut hole carefully; I used a Dremel. To remove the old (one piece) 4:1 manifold: disconnect battery, remove chassis strut, remove lambda probe, undo & remove all manifold studs, lift out manifold. I removed the water rail as well but may not be necessary. Then offer up each primary & trim the side skin as you go. Mick
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Like Chris I too have swapped my 1.4k for a later 1.6k. Not easy as quite a few things have to be changed but all info now in public domain. If we assume you can do the work yourself then take Mike Bees advice & go for the one with the 6 speed. Good luck Mick
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FWIW I have a stable cooling system in my K series by doing the following: 1. Use the approved high spec Rover/Coldstream A/F. 2. Use a water wetter product. 3. Ensure the expansion tank is filled to the max mark. 4. Remove the heater as this was the cause of my air in system (7kgs when dry!!). 5. For those with an aftermarket ECU: ditch the thermo switch & arrange switching of the rad fan via the ECU. 6. Fit a rad fan override switch (just in case!).
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Hi David I went for the 4-2-1 with my 1.6k, & believe it is a great improvement, although I have no hard data other than "the car feels better". It's only a little bit more expensive than the 4-1 from Caterham. Look back in the archives for similar threads. Mick
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I had the same thing after fitting it myself, with a lot of skilled help from my daughter's boy friend. Took it back to Caterham who fixed it, but it still leaked. However this leak cured itself very quickley. Just give it time to settle in or make the journey. Mick
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Phil I have a GEMS ECU controlling my 1.6 K. Initially had a high speed misfire which was cured by changing the plugs. Now all is A1. Pete Mckewan @ Raceline says he has never seen a GEMS ECU fail & he's had a lot of experience both with Zetecs & K series. Mick
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Chris If you need any help you're welcome to have a look at mine! Wiring I mean! Mick
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Just fitted the Caterham 4-2-1 with 6" box. Not too difficult to fit but had to enlarge the exit hole which took most of the time. Good excuse to by a Dremell. Tried it at Bentwaters this W/E & although have no reference figures the car certainly feels quicker. Reason for change: old box had blown most of its stuffing therefor wanted quieter system with hoped for more power. Mick
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Idle bypass valve: electrical thingy, probably stuck onto the plenum chamber with wires sticking out. Could be a MEMS problem. Mick Day
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When Caterham did my S/S upgrade, many moons ago, the shift light didn't work. The wire from the ECU to the light had a bullet connector which had worked loose. Do all Chris has said & check the connectors. Mick
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Simon I assume the Lumenition is a badge engineered GEMS. In my GEMS manual the shift light is switched from 5c. 8b says EBFF?? (T3) whatever that is! Mick
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I know of one Superlight R which failed to play at the Ring & gave intermittant misfires at Spa. Altitude wise the Ring is much higher than Spa. All was OK though once back in GB. Bearing in mind there was a similar failure on the Spanish trip at high altitude, there is a definite problem. It appears the MEMS as supplied with the SLR cannot fuel properly at lower atmospheric pressures. Mick
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After the last thermoswitch failure (of many) I wired up the ECU (GEMS) to switch the fan. In the long term this should prove more reliable (I've still kept the override switch just in case). My 2 year old starter (new type) is showing signs of not wanting to play once nice & hot. Will be very interested to hear what Jez Coates has to say. Mick
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I'm going to tack this on to this thread as it's kind of in the same vein: when starting my engine (recently fitted Apollo) it takes a while to build oil pressure. How do other people cope with this? Or has PC answered this one by having a non-return valve in the restrictor line? Mick PS: where can I get a non-return valve?
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Andrew Glad you got it sorted, strange that I've been doing the same today with a GEMS ECU. Out of interest what temps have you set as the ECU temp runs about 7 deg hotter than the gauge indicates. So I've set the fan to come on at 90 deg & to go off at 85 deg. Mick
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Life's too short! Live with it & do a mental calculation. On second thoughts forget about the mental as it's probably cancelled out the gauges/senders inaccuracy!!
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John My system is now oil leak free!! - & I don't know what happened. Just left it to it's own devices & it stopped leaking. Interesting to hear you get 85-100 deg c oil temp after 25 mile road blat. 2 days at Spa & I could only see 80 deg c max oil temp with water at 85 deg. Probably shows up the inaccuracy in the gauge & sender. Mick
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John Try a search on "Apollo" as well as that is the generic term for the kit. Looks like an Apollo rocket!! Interesting that it takes the factory 4-5 hours to fit as they have access to a vehicle hoist which means one can work at a comfortable level - & they've done it before. It took me (& a knowledgeable friend) 4 hours to trial fit, 3 hours to fit & 8 hours to try & make it oil tight! In the end it went back to Caterham for 1 hour of their time - & it still oozes oil from one union on the sandwich plate! Mick
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Andrew Do you mean remote mounting for the oil filter as well? What if one has an ant-cav. tank fitted as well? Mick
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Try 0 to -1 degrees camber & zero toe in.
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URL’s for anti-cav info on Se7ens list. 1. Go here for decent instructions on how to fit: http://www.se7ens.net/archive/sevens.w3archive/199905/msg00767.html 2. Go here for decent photographs: http://pub.se7ens.net/pictures/closeups/drivetrain/anti_cav_kit.zip 3. Do a search for past info on Blatchat as this has been discussed recently. 4. email me off line if you need further help. 5. Good luck Mick Day
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I'd remove the spark plugs after re-filling with oil as you may spill some oil down the empty plug sockets!
