Mick Day

AFAICT the 2 wires connect to the ECU. The ECU opens a valve at certain RPM to "purge" the contents of the canister into the induction system. I suppose one just disconects the wires & secure them somewhere with a ti-wrap. Mick

Hi Steve Going to France again this year?? I had this problem with my car, 1.6K & GEMS ECU: persistant misfire at 6000 rpm in 5th & 6th. Mapping was OK as was the alternater, battery, leads, coil, dis. cap, rotor arm, plug gap as all were checked/changed! It was completely cured by changing from Bosch FR7DC(new plugs) to NGK BCP7ES plugs. Mick

Rover K series engines get their engine numbers ground off during the modifications to fit the starter on the L hand side of the engine. Caterham then stamp their unique engine number on the block. If an MOT technician does a dial-up the engine number won't relate to the original Rover number. Mick

Andy Only just noticed this post. Converted 1.4 to 1.6 in 2000. As you've noticed the injecter firing is different along with the flywheel tooth pattern. What coil are you running: is it the original Rover (Land Rover actually) coil? If so you need the later engine mounted one, plus the correct coil to loom connector. Mick

Merrick How many wheels do you want to carry? Remove the winch (never used mine)& fix a triangular shelf to the "A" frame. I made mine from outdoor grade birch ply. Cut a hole in the centre of the ply & thread a long piece of heavy duty wire down the centres of the 4 wheels & secure with a padlock. Use regular tie-downs to stop it moving. Cheap economical tyre rack. Also as the wheels are out of the airflow it doesn't increase fuel consumption. Keeping everything low down improves the stability as well. I've also seen a cut down Brian James tyre rack mounted over the "A" frame for the very same purpose. Mick

.............& a heater weighs 7kg: dry!!

Yes your right the balance should stay the same. Mick

Here we go again! Rob W: The Apollo doesn't elliminate surge it just helps reduce the effects, albeit for a v short period of time. The main reason for fitting an Apollo into a wet sump system is to remove the air from the oil. The Apollo in a R500 is there to increase the oil capacity. An Apollo will also act as an oil cooler (though nowhere as efficient as a proper cooler). Andy & David: Removing the heater from my car stabilised the water temp. I reckon it's the main cause of retained air in the system as it's the highest part & difficult (impossible?) to bleed. It also weighs 7kg's dry! Wildly varying oil temps. as discussed probably show up the inaccuracies of Caterham worry gauges. Mick

Dave I'm sure Arnie will help you out with this but to quote PC "hydraulic tappets need runny oil". Good luck Mick

Robmar The Apollo tank will also provide a small reservoir of additional oil (approx 2 litres) which will help reduce the effects of surge, but only for a limited time. However you're right: a dry sump system is the correct engineering route to elliminate it. Simos The temperature of the oil is directly proportional to the energy introduced into the engine system. Rev. the nuts off it (once the oil is warm of course)& the oil temperature will rise regardless of the outside temperature. I don't consider the engine "warmed up" & ready to play unless I see 50deg C oil temp. summer or winter. Mick

Thanks Graham

Chris I wondered how long it would take for you to show up & thought you might buy the wings as spares!! Everyone warm at home? Mick

I reckon there's probably a 10 to 15 deg difference between the crankcase temp & Apollo tank temp. so yours seems about right Chris. On track mine goes up to 80 - 85 deg. Of course it does depend on the accuracy of the gauge & sender (here we go again, worry gauges Chris)! Mick

L7SVN You have mail. Mick I've just added a heater matrix to the list for sale: £35

All off a 1994 De-Dion Flared wings in Jaguar Racing Green, complete with wing stays: £95 Standard roll bar & boot cover: £75 Heated windscreen & surround: £125 Front springs (175) & Bilstein dampers: £95 *SOLD* Standard steering rack for flared wings: £95 New (never used) boxed alternator for 1.4 K series: £125 Motalita 290 leather wheel complete with column: £50 Heater £35 *SOLD* Standard exhaust & silencer: Free *SOLD* Mick Edited by - Mick Day on 17 Mar 2002 20:03:59

I can confirm that: going from the standard to a 4-2-1 gave a considerable increase.

Two sites which help explain the mysteries of the K series here & here. It seems that your question is aimed at "should I buy an ex-race car?" Well as long as the car's been well maintained & the price is right then it should be a reasonable bet. Most race cars probably receive more regular servicing than some privately owned examples. In deed stay clear of the one careful owner, very low mileage, always garaged, never been on track, always serviced every 12000 miles example. By on condition & price. Mick

Thanks Chris & Julian, I'll bear it in mind. Mick Edited by - Mick Day on 10 Feb 2002 13:37:18

Thanks Julian. I'm going to be tackling the removal at some point in time & will bear in mind your offer, however being in Sussex is a little distance from Cheshire. However if you fancy a run out some time!!?? Mick

Julian Where abouts are you located as you could have some business coming your way! Mick

...............or a ride with Blackbirdman!!!! Mick

Bit difficult to know what your curvature really is. I can't remember the exact location of some really good digi photos on the seven's list, but these were a godsend to me when setting up. It must be in the Blatchat archives. Mick

Ditto Rob & Chris re the bottom plate fixing. I used a small jubilee clip (lined with a bit of cast off rad hose) around the upper chassis tube to hold the big jubilee clip around the tank. It's very secure. The top bracket supplied by Caterham looks very inadequate. Mick

I bought the Caterham 4:2:1 with 6" silencer. It is quieter than the original because most of the stuffing had blown out of the original over the past 7 years! No doubt this will happen with this one in time. My kit included a black guard which I haven't fitted. If anyone wants one email me off line. Mick

I got my new crimps from those nice guys at GEMS but I'm sure that Vehicle Wiring Products (www.vehicleproducts.co.uk) or the like will have suitable ones. Mick