Mick Day

Mav I'm glad you got it sorted. Although I haven't tried it I was sure the belt could be changed with the tank in situ. Next time don't forget the spare belt! Apart from the rain it was a good day & all credit to the organisers. Mick

Adrian You poor sod! Drive carefully??!! Mick

Sorry Peter, forgot to mention that the oxygen feedback rate needs to be reduced to zero at the ECU. Mick

Mav If you think about it, when you remove the filter (which is lower than the tank) most of the oil will drain, except what's below the lower hose (teacup?). Bearing in mind there'll be 6 litres plus going in, the final dilution will be 99.5% fresh oil; so why worry? Mick

Tom No big deal really: 1. You need to remove the rad to fit the rack. 2. Remove the flares. 3. Remove wing/light brackets. 4. Decide on how you'll fill the holes. I used interior trim buttons which are painted to match. 5. T-cut the side skins to get rid of any marks. 6. Fit the new brackets & drill wings (2.5" back from leading edge wing & 3.5" apart)/brackets. 7. Fit headlamps/indicators to new brackets with wiring inside the tubing. 8. Disconnect upper steering column clamp. 9. Put key in ignition to imobilise steering lock & pull off upper column. Often needs a lot of positive pressure to remove! 10. Fit new column (may need to replace top column bush) 11. Drill wheel to fit boss. Or get someone to do it who's done it before. Tips: 1. To fit the bracket over the stub axel turn the wheels. 2. Drill the fibreglass very slowly & ideally through the gel-coat 1st. Place masking tape over the gel before drilling. 3. Use something (like a rubber grommet cut in half) to insulate the wing retaining bolts. Or glue them on. 4. Get someone, who's done it before, to drill the steering wheel. Torque settings: 1. Steering rack to chassis 5-7 ft/lbs 2. Track rod ends 20-25 ft/lbs 3. Top wishbone/front upright 20-25 ft/lbs 4. Stub axels 40-45 ft/lbs. Remember to use half thickness nuts. Good luck Mick

So once you've removed the catalyst you can safely remove the lambda probe. While you're at it why not remove the charcoal canister & all the other gubbins that goes with it (weight reduction etc.). Mick

To clean the grill just put it in the dish-washer. Worked for me & I didn't bother to sand it down either. Still looks good 12 months on. Another thing fit some mesh behind the grill to stop stones holing the rad. Mick

Take off exhaust header 3 & 4 as it then gives far more room to manoeuvre. Mick

This seems to affect most K series from time to time. I've had it happen with both types of starter & I'm now on the geared starter with the solenoid underneath. Last night after a spirited drive back from Sky Pilot's BBQ I couldn't start the car to drive into the garage. 1 hour later & all I could get was a click from the solenoid. This am started 1st time, went for a 50 mile drive, no problems even starting when hot. These intermittant problems are a big pain in the **** but I think John V may have the answer as the core gets stuck as the temp goes up. Is this your opinion Mark or are there other problems as well? Mick Edited by - Mick Day on 9 Jun 2002 17:38:35

Check your bump steer if you're having to hang onto your wheel for grim death. I've just changed to a 22% & like the characteristics i.e. one doesn't have to move the wheel far to change direction, suits my lazy style of driving! Mick

A se7en is for life & lets face it most of us have invested more than money (grazed knuckles, new swear words, must take it out to test the new thingy etc (think on that one!)). Yes if you buy the car with one eye on its resale then don't change anything. But think on a minute: who are you going to sell it to? If you sell it back to the factory you can forget it if the wheelnuts are non-standard. But if you sell it to a fellow enthuseast they'll appreciate the never-ending-list of go-faster-goodies. Even if you buy a 2nd hand SLR I'm sure you'll, one day, want to get the engine out & let upgradeitis take its course. So what is the moral here: buy your car & develop it so it becomes what you want it to be. Me, well my 1.4 was junked a while ago & after a longish gestation period a 1.6 emerged which is still under development (thanks John!). Next stage will be an uprated bottom end & ??????????????? Mick

Yeah about 12" !!! You need the steering wheel (suitably drilled to accept the coupling) & a new upper steering column (about 15 " long), which is splined at the top end (coupling fits onto splines) & has a flattened end to connect to the lower steering column. Have a word with the guys in Caterham parts dept. Good luck Mick

Check the throttle pedal bush inside the pedal box. This can seize causing the problems you describe. Mick

Not too sure what "standard" exhaust Caterham are fitting now but I got my standard manifold off (1600 K) without disturbing the engine mounts by removing the studs completely. I removed the water rail to make things easier but not too sure whether this is essential. Mick

Have a dredge around the archives as this has been discussed again & again. Minister reckon that water coolant, & this is for the R500 so shouldn't be far off for the VHPD, should not exceed 80degC., with oil temp not exceeding 100degC. Mick

I've noticed this with mine once it was rebuilt by R & R Transmissions in 1998 (13000 miles later). Enthuseastic driving in France induces it. Couldn't work out what the problem was until I started analysing how I changed gear. Usually in 6th one has been cruising for a while & the brain has defaulted to a neutral state. Make sure the clutch goes flat to the floor & this seems to sort the problem. But as Mike Bees says it may have more to do with the detent plunger binding (gearbox expert I also am not) after a prolonged enthuseastic spell in 6th. Mick

Rod Not too sure whether you're suited but I have a complete windscreen (heated) & surround available. Mick

If it's the fan thermoswitch you're talking about its an old VW Polo part. Take it out & throw it away as it'll only fail again & again! Assuming you have an aftermarket ECU (Emerald, GEMS, etc) this can be programmed to switch the fan & you'll never have to worry again. Mick

I had a similar problem: 1.6K & GEMS ECU: persistant misfire at 6000 rpm in 5th & 6th. Mapping was OK as was the alternater, battery, leads, coil, dis. cap, rotor arm, plug gap as all were checked/changed! It was completely cured by changing from Bosch FR7DC(new plugs) to NGK BCP7ES plugs. Mick

Get rid of the heater! Mick

The dash switches have seperate wires for the illumination. It's easy to pull these off when fiddling underneath & difficult to get them back on as there's no slack. I've given up on mine as few of the dash switches now control anything. Mick

If it's any consolation my K series oil sender/gauge has consistantly under-read since new in 1994. On mentioning it to Caterham (v v naive then) they said oil pressure OK: "the gauge is only a guide if it deviates then bring it back". Hot pressure was 3 bar at 4000 rpm & hot idle 1.5 bar (or less). The engine is now a new 1.6 & guess what, same oil pressure readings; even less when the Apollo tank fitted. Just thought I'd change the sender (it is a little old!!), oil pressure now 4.5 bar hot at 3500 rpm & 2 bar hot idle. As Chris said a while ago: "Worry gauges". Mick Edited by - Mick Day on 9 Apr 2002 23:15:06

I have seen this happen when the breather pipe from the cam cover is routed into the air filter &/or plenum. L hand corner fast, the engine "breathes" & oil is "injected" into the engine. However I suspect you may have overfilled. Check your oil level & keep an eye on it.

Tony They caused the problem, get them to recover the car & fix it. See you on Le-Sept. Mick

Try using expanding rubber rawlbolts. Select the most appropriate size for the now larger holes. Before you laugh I've used these after doing the same thing with a cone on a track day. Mick