Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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No wonder John switched off to all things electrical. Mick
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Another way to do the top fixing is to use a jubilee clip aroung the top chassis member insulated with some old rad hose. This then neatly holds the large jubilee clip at the top of the tank. Good luck Mick
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Go to Dave Andrews & buy the emerald ECU & suitable hydraulic cams to produce circa 130 BHP. About the same cost as a SS upgrade but with added value. Mick
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CC supply a VW part as standard. After having switch after switch fail (you do have a manual overide?) I eventually rigged up a relay to switch the rad fan via the ECU. However you do need an aftermarket ECU (Emerald, GEMS, DTA, etc) to do this. With 210 BHP it sound as though you may have one though. Mick
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Earlier starters were a Ford derivative with the solenoid underneath. This model suffered from dry & fractured joints on the solenoid terminal. Later starters are a Skoda product with the solenoid on top. The fix mentioned will work for both starters if your symptoms match the one in this thread. Do a search as there are fixes described for both types of starter. Happy hunting. Mick
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OK, fit some protective padding to the roll bar. Now you'll need the extra bits! Mick
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Spot on Chris. It sure ain't no laxative though! Mick
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*thumbup* Good one Chris: I always wondered what the MFRU did & now I know. Your explanation makes good sense & certainly eliminates some of the witchcraft associated with this mod. Mick
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Tony The starter solenoid needs a fairly hefty whack of current to throw in the 1st place. Consider this: maybe the extra heat etc increases friction within the solenoid bore to the point when it just wont throw? To excite the solenoid the current has to flow from the battery to the ignition switch, through the immobiliser, & then down to the starter. Quite some distance really. Putting a relay in the circuit shortens this pathway by ?? 80%. I admit it still doesn't explain why only K's experience this problem. Mick
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I now have a K which starts hot or cold since doing the relay mod last year. The problem is probably a combination of 1. heat increasing the resistance in the solenoid exciter wire; 2. increased resistance in the ignition switch &/or 3. increased resistance in the imobiliser (in my case a 9 year old Vecta). Good luck & many thanks to all who push started my car before I fixed it. Mick PS: I'm reliably informed there is no relay in the "standard" starter circuit. Edited by - Mick Day on 11 Mar 2003 21:08:39
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I always ran mine on standard unleaded with no apparant problems. However, I always used super for track days. Hope this helps, Mick
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If you want two maps & have enough money floating araound for extra toys why not just buy another ECU! Mick
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Allegro Next time take the boot floor out & do it from above - it makes the job much easier as you don't have to force the oil uphill. Same thing when topping up the gearbox. Get a long tube, feed one end into the gearbox filler & the other end up into the engine bay, attach it to the bottle & let gravity work for you. Mick
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Do Caterham sell the remote sensor kit or do I get it from someplace like Thinkauto? Mick
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Get the battery tested, it may not be a dud battery. If you turn the key & you get a single click then you may have the infamous K series starter problem. There is an easy fix for this. Do a search in the archives as the fix has been well explained in other threads. Mick
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OK so the mech. speedo is binned: what do you use to seal the hole into the gearbox where the R/A drive used to live? Mick
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Looks like they'll have to go to the tip! Chris Clark?? Mick
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Mine cost £883 (May 2002) for a comprehensive rebuild on a 1996 6 speed. All upgrades (new main shaft) were carried out except 5th which was considered OK. Mick
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Mr SlipperMan Know it all! However my engine is a 1.6 so we didn't end up down that blind alley. Merry Christmas Mick
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I have a pair of clam shells circa 1994. Painted in Jaguar Green, reasonable condition. Free to a good home. Mick
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If you get the bits from Caterham they should all fit, however if you source it yourself you will need to obtain a flywheel from the 1.6 as the larger 1.8 unit will not fit the Caterham bellhousing. Mick
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I used a Dremel with a carbide cutter at high speed. Again had to offer up the headers time & time again to get a nice fit. Finaly used several grades of rotary abrasive to polish. Mick
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Yes Mike the 1.4 SS did include an aluminium plenum. Changing from a 1.4 to a 1.6/1.8 is not as easy as it 1st seems. James Whiting did mine for me in early 2000 & not without it's headaches. 1. The majority of Caterham 1.4 blocks cannot be converted, therfore you need a doner engine. 2. A chunk of webbing needs to be ground off to fit the starter. 3. A new later type coil is required. 4. The sequencing for the injectors is different from the 1.4 to 1.6/1.8. 5. If using a 1.8 you need a 1.6 flywheel. Now all this is in the public domain the job isn't too difficult but you do need to have someone who understands the wiring changes. Good luck Mick
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I've had a Machine Mart one since Alex Wong showed me how to do-up my nuts at Cadwell 2 years ago; still working. Probably pack up tomorrow! Mick
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The GEMS ECU has a hole in the casing, about 3mm in diameter. Regardles of whether the ECU is properly mapped or not any atmospheric change will affect fuelling. Maybe the MEMS is so far out (witness other examples) that any reduction in atmos. makes it far to rich, resulting in the problems discussed. In any case dump it & get something else. Mick
