Mick Day

I had a local trailer centre replace & modify the braking system getting rid of the rods.

Hi Kev One thing to check is the cabin temp sensor as mentioned previously. These often get clogged with fluff &/or the little fan that draws air over the sensor stops working.

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: I only know of one issue, where it wouldn't turn the car over, but suspect a duffer - .............. Wow powerful battery...!

You two into cider then?

Quoting weeman: How ever you decide to fit them, I would seriously recommend that you cover them with a paint protection film. The wrap around guards from Millwood look good when new but the quality is questionable. They lasted about 50 miles on my car, I've since fitted 3M film but the damage was already done. If you don't protect them you won't have to worry about removing them at a later date to fit them elsewhere because they will have been shredded. 'Carbon bits' are in the throws of producing this style of wing guard and I for one can't wait. Be lucky!! Martin Fit them with 4 x M5 black alloy/plastic nuts fasteners. The sort of thing that is sold to fix M/C fairings. So they can be removed PDQ when the new wings arrive. Millwoods quality??? I bought a pair about 8 years ago & they were retired in 2006 for new wings with paint protection film only. The Millwoods Protectors will be refitted once the new wings have "caught up". So, in effect, protection film is better than the Millwoods c/f guards! Now I wonder how much better Carbon Bits offering will be? Edited by - Mick Day on 10 Apr 2011 20:41:21

Hi Jo As mentioned before you were out on the wrong day........Should have been out yesterday.........!

Well if you'd been out yesterday you could have spotted me!

When I had a wet sump the OP would drop on LH bends.

Why would a knackered scavenge pump cause high oil pressure? Pressure is a product of the pump output multiplied by the resistance to flow. So either the pump output has gone up (is there an adjustment on the pump?? Pace pump??) or the flow has been restricted. What oil filter are you using??? Is it a different brand to previous? Personally I've found VDO gauges/senders to be very reliable.

Nobody thought what API grade it requires? Is viscosity the only parameter?

Take off the distributor cap & throw it away along with the rotor arm. After 11 years it might fail tomorrow. New parts only cost a few quid so it'll be good for at least a few more years.

Bonnet & Nose Cone Storage?........it's called a Se7en Alan! 😬

Check the float levels as well, plus you may need to replace the float level needle valves.

Is new glass easy to fit?

Another way to change the ratio is to put 185/70/13 or 205/60/13 tyres on the rear wheels.

*thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* Steve & Steve are the best mappers in the business. No doubt Emerald are just as good but Dave will only work on his own ECU's.

My rad was replaced under warranty as well........................in 1996! Drain plug boss just fell out!

I've put many engine things in the dishwasher including the bellhousing. However do not use dishwasher stuff as it will etch the ali. I used auto clothes washing powder. Nobody noticed until I put the coolant header tank in, the idea being to get rid of the 10 years of accumulated gunk in the bottom. Cleaned it up OK but left a very strange smell behind.

It's easier to get in to clean.................... It looks good.................. You can say: I've got wide track...................... As said by someone at Caterham when I asked does the aero widetrack have any benefit?: Ask the marketing dept! If you're a skilled track driver then maybe; if you need new wishbones then go for it; if not then save some cash.

My money's on the FIA switch &/or dodgy earth.

Gary popped them in when I ran narrow track. IIRC it gave the same advantage as the post 96 anti-dive geometry. Now on wide track & have the spacers in situ: not too sure whether I would notice the difference either way though.

The other thing to check is the water rail gasket at the back of the head on the exhaust side. Have a look at Angus & Tessa's pics: here

Could it be that the mechanic is trying to fit a Rover starter motor?

I have a 1.9 DVA K with a Radtec rad & standard fan. Using a 82deg stat the temp sits at about 76deg on the SPA gauge. The ECU shows about 5deg more. ECU switches fan on at 86deg & off at 84deg. Seems to cope quite well even in 35deg ambient.

I've had all 3. Steve Greenald didn't like the 74deg variant as like you we couldn't get much heat energy into the system. The 88deg variant is considered too high so most plump for 82deg in a tuned K series engine: Halfords part number HTK 605