Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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Have you unscrewed the studs from the head? If so it's often a case of rotating the manifold around to get it out at the best angle. I think when I did it I had the starter motor removed as well, but I have a removeable diagonal. If this still doesn't work then you may have to undo the LHS engine mount & raise the engine on a jack a fraction. Mick
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Have a look at: here & here Edited by - Mick Day on 1 Feb 2004 23:34:40
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My 1973 Triumph Spitfire manual says Oil - I used engine oil. I still have the grease gun I bought to do the job. Anyone want it? Mick
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Had a word with Neil Patterson at Pace & he confirms what Luke posted.
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The Pace DS uses an external pump for pressure & the internal engine oil pump is disabled. However can the internal pump be retained & the Pace pump be bypassed? Or could they be run is series? Mick Edited by - mick day on 27 Jan 2004 23:25:23
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When was the last true 1.4 SS sold by Caterham? Quite some time ago. So it seems to have lasted some time without the foam. If it didn't have a foam baffle for most of its life & then had to have a replacement engine............... who knows what reason? Jackal's experience at 2.5k with foam blocking the galleries is not a nice story. So who knows until we suck it & see. What we need is evidence based info from those who run no foam baffle but have an Apollo........ I'll bravely go I think. However researching Pace DS at present so may move sideways. Mick Edited by - Mick Day on 26 Jan 2004 19:56:00
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Oil change coming up in the Spring so will suck it & see. Would be nice to hear from some of those who have removed the foam baffle as to their thoughts. I'll keep everyone informed on my exploits. Mick
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Anybody doing this next time just remove the studs from the cylinder head & the manifold should come out easily. Removing the diagonal is not always necessary but makes access easier. Mick
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From what I understand it's a different windage plate & no foam baffle. In effect the sump is not a reservoir for oil so there's little need for a baffle. Just to repeat has anyone done away with the foam baffle & just relied on the anti-cavitation (apollo) tank? Mick
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Oily So are you saying, on balance, it's likely to be more beneficial removing the foam & running without? Has anyone produced a proper baffled K series sump for Caterham's? Mick
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Myles I really meant much discussion about changing the baffle but little concensus on its purpose. What does it do: stop the oil sloshing around, provide some measure of de-airation?..........or a combination of both. So has anyone removed it totally & what is the result? Mick
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After reading much discussion on this there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer - is this piece of kit necessary when using an anti-cavitation (apollo) tank? Mick
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Assuming we are talking about the soft compound AO32R's, how does the SS compound figure in all this? Mick
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................or drop them off at my garage & should be well buffed after 6 months or so
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So, is the foam really necessary? You don't say whether you have an Apollo tank or not? What is the concensus view? Mick
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I was under the impression that the Rover engine number was removed when Caterham modified the block for the LH starter motor mounting. Caterham then stamped their own number on the upper surface of the bearing ladder where it protrudes from under the block mating face on the exhaust side. My engine number is the same as my kit number (1994 car)which reflects the chassis number. Mick
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Finally got round to doing it last night. Plenty of controlled brute force using a very sharp pointed instrument. Took longer to get the new seal into place. Will try at the W/E to see if it's oil tight. Thanks guys Mick
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I've been reading the archives on this topic but no one mentions how to prise the b*gg** out. Does one use a small screw driver or maybe a couple of self tappers & then pull? Is there a tool one can buy? . All suggestions gratefully received. Mick
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...................that's the easy bit!!
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Thottle pot sensor?? Has the lead come off?? Mick
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I wouldn't worry too much. A lot of people dispense with the locking nut (ring) as this makes adjustment easier. They don't move. Mick
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Race Tech version connected via cig lighter socket. Works well! Mick
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....or try .......The Magneton starter motor which has the innards of a Skoda and the nose casing from a Ford component is supplied by Global components & Tooling Corp Ltd., Unit 7 Barford Industrial Estate, Watton Rd., Barford,. Norwich NR9 4BG. Contact is Graham Batty, the price for a new motor, VAT and postage came to #86.36. Sorry can't find the tel no. but they are in the book and don't be put off if you get voice mail - they do phone back....... With thanks to John Howe. Mick
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Angus & Tessa Creaky noise under the car is probably due to worn rivets in the floor. Check the centre rear by pushing the floor up towards the chassis. Funny how any noise for here can apparantly emminate from the front of the car. Mick
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Nic Check your nosecone isn't rubbing on your rad. Best solution is to get the hole repaired by a specialist. regards Mick
