Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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There's no setting in an ECU for octane. Petrol of a certain octane number is needed in an engine (any petrol engine) to prevent detonation. The higher the compresion ratio the greater the chance of detonation therfore a higher octane is required. In a regular car detonation can often be heard; it's far more difficult in a noisy Se7en. Therfore to be on the safe side it's wise to use a higher octane fuel. Mick
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Although your Se7en may not have a catalyst it may have a lambda sensor. Lambda sensors do not like leaded petrol & will stop working if contaminated withe 4 *. Mick
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Blackbirdman had a similar problem at Spa 11 months ago. The chain rollers had fractured. The reverse gearbox was removed, stripped & a new heavy-duty chain made-up by a very enthuseastic local bike shop. Up & running again within the afternoon. I have a pic or 2 of the internals. Email me if you would like a copy. Mick
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So if we do the maths: 33000/6.28 = 5254.78 So why do we use 5252??.............or have I missed something? Mick
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Check the nuts holding the instruments in place. These are small & on my car are not nylocks, however, they could be on your car. Doesn't explain the distressed appearance though. Mick
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Not too sure what Caterham supply but I used 25mm long S/S M5's. Get them from your local supplier.
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Outline the hole with several drill holes, snip it, then use a Dremal to tidy up the edges. Used this method to cut my exhaust hole & it didn't even damage the paint. Mick
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Before I removed my heater I used to change the coolant with the heater valve closed. I reckoned it prevented air getting into the heater matrix etc. No air-locks. I've now removed the heater (7kg dry!) & still no air-locks. Mick
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The Caterham supplied front brakes (AP) come with new ventilated disks & work very well. The JW supplied front brakes (Alcon) utilise the standard disks & work very well. So it's easier to fit the JW kit & new disks are about £17 each. The ventilated disks are about £140 each. I've used the JW set-up since 1999 & I'm very pleased with it. It comes down to how much you wish to pay. Mick PS: do a search in the archives as there's plenty of previous discussion.
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Not too sure on the part number for the 88deg jobbie. This is the standard Rover thermostat & would be the same for ali & standard rad. Not too sure how reliable they are. Had the thermostat fail open in my BMW 328 at 4 years old. I wanted a 82 deg thermostat for my 1.6K so hunted through Halfords shelves until I found one to fit(HTK 605). Used the old 88 deg one as a template. If you have a standard engine might as well stick to the 88 deg one but you can get it from Halfords. Mick
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It was pointed out by someone else with an LSD. I don't have an LSD; I just let the tester think I did. In conversation with the tester they test all 4x4's "on-the-road" as they all have LSD's of one form or another. Whether it does any harm "on-the-rollers" I don't know. I think it's probable that brake efficiency is difficult to measure "on-the-rollers" with an LSD. Mick
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Mine failed on handbrake in 2002, returned for a re-test after adjusing it & it only just passed. Last year went to a small garage (his son has a Westfield) & all the brake tests were done "on-the-road". He was in the passenger seat with his meter & had to operate the hand brake himself. It passed & the tester commented on how efficient *confused* it was. The moral here I think is find a garage with some mechanical sympathy but also tell them you have a limited slip diff. Apparantly these shouldn't be tested "on-the-rollers". I hope you passed. Mick
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Ken It's not a standard Rover part so your best bet is from Caterham. However Brise supply the motors to Caterham in the first place. It's also available from Demon Tweaks & I suppose any other Caterham dealer in your area. Mick
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Try http://www.brise.co.uk/. This is where I got mine from; they also have repair shop so could recondition/exchange yours. Mick
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Check the rivets in the floor especially at the rear adjacent to the tunnel. The rivets tend to fret & wear a larger hole in the ali. resulting in a creaky floor. Replace with larger headed rivets.
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I have no windscreen so used the redundant heated screen wiring. Just change the fuse in the fuse box to 5amps or lower.
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I'm glad you've come on to hearing protection. When we first took to aero's we didn't bother with ear plugs as neither my wife or I liked them. Several Le-Septs (1800 odd miles in France) were enjoyed "natural" so to speak. However with several engine/exhaust upgrades the whole thing has got much noisier - not to mention the wind noise. So after forcing ourselves to wear ear plugs in 2002 we wouldn't dream of driving without them
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I can echo Paul Davis's experiences. In fact it was seeing Paul's wife Sandy reading a book whilst passengering that convinced me to go this route. Wouldn't go back - can't as I've sold all the weather gear!
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I don't have an indicator warning light & haven't had any problems with the last few MOT's. It got removed & taped up under the dash when I wanted a "hole" for an oil pressure/temperature changeover switch. Could always replace if I was asked I suppose 😬
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I've got some hen's teeth 😬 😬
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Steve Your right, this was my original rack changed 2 years ago when I converted to cycle wings & a 22% rack. However it is possible to fit "restricters" inside a standard rack to prevent too much lock, as Caterham used to do. Mick
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A client of mine is moving away & has an engineering lathe for sale. It's made by Chester UK & is an intermediate size designed for home use. It has a 9" swing & he wants £650 ono. Carl is located in Horsham, W Sussex & can be contacted on 07967-649833. Carl has no email access & I cannot pass on messages.
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All for a 1994 De-Dion car: Pair rear Bilsteins with, I think, 150 lb/" (yellow) springs. 34,000 miles, no leaks. £40. Standard steering rack for flared wings. £40. New alternator for 1.4 K series, boxed & neved used. £40.
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I have a standard (non quick) rack for a flared wing 1994 de-dion car. Still in good condition complete with T/R/Ends. £50 to a good home. Mick
