Mick Day

Nigel Stewart Golding makes custum bags designed to fit in the spare wheel. You can still use the normal fixing bracket as well. Tel: 01295 810487

Myles wrote: "It wouldn't be so bad, but my sump-plug doesn't have a washer and so needs blue Hylomar to help seal it." Good time to fit a washer *thumbup*

Myles If you've overfilled it doesn't really matter where the oil is drained from as the sump & Apollo are part of the same system. However it's easier to drain from the sump. When you switch off oil will drain from the Apollo to the sump at a rate proportional to the airbleed from the cam cover. That's assuming you haven't fitted a one-way valve.

Myles The oil drains from the Apollo back to the sump when you switch off; so only need to drain from the sump. Can anyone answer this one: if I let the oil level get too low (wet sump with Apollo) the oil pressure goes up slightly? Mick Edited by - Mick Day on 26 Jun 2004 18:04:35

I very much doubt it. I have had a an original VW Beetle on mine & it was a v tight squeeze.

Actually pressure is a product of the pump output & resistance to flow. So if the pump is damaged & can't maintain output........................... .................. & yes I'll put my money on the sender being U.S.

Hi Tony How's the cylinder head after the little problem you had? Mick PS. Sorry to hi-jack the thread

For an understandable treatise on brake fluid have a look here: http://www.mg-sportcars.co.uk/Brake_Fluidsl_FA_Questions.htm

Paul I wish someone was taking the Michael.......... Exactly as Peter has described, but luckily no bits in the pick-up. DS is on the shopping list.

Yes Gary did it for me. The car's still with him having it's 10 year make-over so I don't know the final cost. However changing the foam is not that difficult: see previous threads.

After taking further advice I've had the sump baffle replaced. Gary at Freestyle says it's there to help prevent surge. Good job we had a look really as the ali windage plate had started to break-up. Foam was reasonably OK so another good reason for checking ❗

James & Ruth are 2 people I have the greatest of respect for. Always helpful, plenty of good advice & a measured sense of humour. It's what this club is all about.

Seen this twice in my car: 1st time bad engine earth; 2nd time a duff battery.

"A lambda sensor's normal life span is 30,000 to 50,000 miles. But the sensor may fail prematurely if it becomes clogged with carbon, or is contaminated by lead from leaded petrol or silicone from an antifreeze leak or from silicone sealer." See here for info on lambda sensors: http://www.picotech.com/auto/lambda_sensor.html

That's why the N/S arch is cut-a-way, to allow the rear exit exhaust through.

The stickier the tyres the more c*** they'll pick up from the road &................ The star chips gives the car a certain patina that separates the polishers from the users. Alan Clark, who had a fair few cars, reckoned that a car has to be used as intended; cosmetics are only secondary.

The other thing to check is the coil. Are you running the original "Land Rover" coil mounted on the pedal box or the later coil mounted on the side of the engine? With the 1400 supersport mems & flywheel you should retain the LR item.

Have a look here for a review of the Snooper: http://www.ukspeedtraps.co.uk My monies on the Origin B2 or Morpheous Roadpilot.

I'd second Steve Greenald: 1st rate bloke & really knows his stuff. Good friend of Roger King. I wouldn't recommend Southern Carbs....................

Don't use leaded fuel if you still have a lambda sensor: http://www.picotech.com/auto/lambda_sensor.html "A lambda sensor's normal life span is 30,000 to 50,000 miles. But the sensor may fail prematurely if it becomes clogged with carbon, or is contaminated by lead from leaded petrol or silicone from an antifreeze leak or from silicone sealer." Not too sure whether LRP would damage a lambda sensor.

Hmmmm..... depending on where & how the Stack sensor screws to the existing filter housing, why not get Think Automotive to make you up a kit. All you then need to do is remove the sensor, screw in the extension hose to the existing filter housing, route the hose along the same route as the Apollo pipes & fit the sensor wherever you want. I've mounted mine using the mounting bolt for the header tank. This'll work out easier than fitting a new filter housing & you can return the Caterham kit for an 80% refund. Mick

I've copied the following from the Booka Track site; I seem to remember reading this somewhere else as well: "Engine lubrication - Oil temperature "With the track day season in full swing and warmer weather here, we have received a large number of queries from various quarters regarding acceptable oil temperatures on k series Supersport cars and Superlights. We would expect the oil temperature to reach in excess of 100c when driven enthusiastically, but not reach the red. What has become apparent is that the single most important factor affecting the temperature is the fuel being used. We believe that the quality of 95RON unleaded has detiorated recently, possibly as a side affect of price competition, and this is causing poor combustion at sustained high rpm. This is generally not felt by the driver. Experience has shown that cars run on Super Unleaded or other high octane fuels (such as Shell Optimax) do not experience this problem. In tests, the oil temperature has been significantly lower under hard use (though it will be similar in general road driving). Note: Whilst our guage only reads to 120c, the engine is rated to a much higher temperature (as is any good quality oil). Therefore, to safeguard your engine from lubrication related problems, Caterham Cars strongly recommend the use of Super Unleaded or equivilant fuel for track days and racing." - Simon Lambert" Coming back to this argument of tuning the engine (ecu) for higher octane fuel: it's all down to the ignition advance mapping. Use higher octane & the ignition can sustain more advance. Vice versa with lower octane. So if you're inadvertantly using fuel of a lower octane number & give it some stick, poor combustion may occur resulting in higher oil temperatures etc. Not to mention what any associated detonation may do to the engine. From what I gather Optimax is a fuel produced to a standard rather than a budget. So it has a proper dollop of detergent & is 98RON. incidentally Super Unleaded in the UK is 97RON but in France it's 98RON. Mick

I'm still a bit unsure as to why steel rivets are best. It's not the rivets which wear but the alloy floor. It seems as though the rivet head frets away at the floor & just enlarges the hole. Initially it looks as though the rivet has worn but on closed inspection it's not. Mick

Rob The original K as fitted was a wet linered block with the low port head. Rumour has it that Caterham bought a job lot of these engines & continued fitting as 1.4 up until they run out in about 1996, just when the 1.6 was introduced. All engines since then have been damp linered with the high port heads. How do I know? I tried to rebuild my 1994 K as a 1.6 that's how Micky PS: I see Fordy beat me to it! Edited by - Mick Day on 30 Apr 2004 10:59:37

Arnie Have a look here: http://www.picotech.com/auto/lambda_sensor.html "A lambda sensor's normal life span is 30,000 to 50,000 miles. But the sensor may fail prematurely if it becomes clogged with carbon, or is contaminated by lead from leaded petrol or silicone from an antifreeze leak or from silicone sealer." Maybe wide-band sensors are more robust. Mick