Mick Day

Most likely a 3.92:1

David I'd like a 625 please. Mick

Odyssey user manual here

Dave Have a look here. I know this is for an air-cooled VW but the principles are still the same. This is what I think Simon Erland was trying to get across. Use quality componants & get them balanced. In effect everything which goes around needs to be balanced. Those with a small diameter such as prop-shafts (should be dynamically balanced by the manufacturer anyway), gearbox's & diffs probably don't have much effect. Remember wheels are balanced but we don't balance the hubs or brake discs. Mick

Things which aren't bollox: 1. Using a thermostat which responds to temp & pressure, but maybe not necessary in a Caterham installation. 2. Moving the thermostat to the output side of the engine. This could also include an air bleed to help with filling. 3. Steel dowels to locate the head to the block. Having read the article & followed the threads on www.exiges.com Simon Erland's main thrust is proper assembly using balanced components. He also says that a lot of the standard Rover parts are well balanced to start with whereas some of the after-market cranks are not. What I think is the contentious bit is that high BHP & torque figures can be had very easily & that this engine will then be more reliable than any other highly tuned 4 cylinder. Will Oily & Roger King stick their heads above the parapet? Edited by - Mick Day on 8 Dec 2004 13:14:01

V7 I'd like to read the full article. Mick

An interesting article indeed. As someone with a vested interest in the "K", as in I have one in my 7, I'm a little biased. Who is Simon Erland? Three people of interest, amongst others, who are mentioned in the article are Dave Andrews, Peter Carmichael & Roger King: would they like to comment? Edited by - Mick Day on 7 Dec 2004 13:48:49

Try James Whiting in Ashford Middlesex: 01784-241466

Tyre rubber is also degraded by driving but we don't stop doing that ❗ I've been washing my cars & tyres with detergents of one sort or another for 30 years & haven't noticed any problems. However if new evidence based research is available............. I'd like to see the evidence first as articles are often just opinion.

Never thought of using the prop shaft flange bolts, good idea John. Speedy Cables are here: http://www.speedycables.com. Speedy Cables are part of the Caerbont Automotive group who supply Caterham's current instruments with the Caterham logo on.

Jeff There is a kit for doing just this. I think CC stock it & of course Phil Stewart at Road & Race. If you've got very bendy fingers you may be able to do it in situ, otherwise you need to drill a small hole in the side of the tunnell (cover with a bung after) to extract the drive from the gearbox. http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ sell the speedo. Mine reads off the front wheel hub which I would think would be an easier way to do it rather than trying to fix up a holder for the sensor by the propshaft. Again CC have a bracket for fixing the sensor. Edited by - Mick Day on 9 Nov 2004 14:33:42

I used, I think, M5 S/S fasteners to fit mirrors & Brooklands to stanchion. Use countersink fasteners from underneath with nuts on top.

Nigel Is your scavange pump supplied by Caterham? Mick

Thanks Angus: it's where one would expect the cracks to start, in between the webbs. Another Vx 2.0l. I've seen similar cracks on another Vx (250 BHP) & a Zetec (215 BHP) both using Green Stuff pads.

I've never heard of any incidences of solid front disks cracking but I of know of a few vented discs that 've cracked. That's not to say there's anything wrong with vented discs but it would be nice to have more data on this. The Alcon calipers are very similar to the AP, take the same pad shape (I think), but have different piston sizes. Paul Harvey ran these calipers for the 24 hour Nurburgring race a few years back. Anybody remember how the discs fared? Edited by - Mick Day on 1 Nov 2004 11:56:03

Nigel Excuse my ignorance but what is the 4th pulley for? I can see 2 on the crankshaft, 1 on the scavange pump & what looks like a 4th between the crank pulleys & the scavange? Mick

Hawk brake pads here

I use a standard pedal & M/C with the Alcon brakes. The standard discs (cheap to replace) are retained. James Whiting says the piston sizes have been carefully calculated so that the standard M/C can be retained. For me it works & I also like green stuff pads for the front & standard for the rear. On the road I have a firm pedal all the time. On track the pedal travel increases but the brake efficiency is still more than sufficient. Rick: If I were you & just using the car for road use I'd stick with the standard brakes. I've never used Pagid pads so can't comment but others who have used the Hawk metalic type pads say these give nearly as good improvement as fitting bigger brakes. Even if they do wear the discs out prematurely at £15 a throw they're cheaper than the pads. Edited by - Mick Day on 31 Oct 2004 09:59:39

Short one Pete, you need it to fit in the back of the tow-car.

Steve . The noise you can hear is the input shaft in the gearbox rattling. Depressing the clutch stops it rotating so the noise stops. The reason you don't hear it in the tin-top is better insulation & gearbox design. Mick Edited by - Mick Day on 1 Oct 2004 23:28:12

Basically follow the following. This is assuming you're taking the input from the front hub; ie 4 pulses per revolution. P= total pulses over 1 mile D = diameter of wheel & tyre. P= 4x1760x36/3.142 x D P= 3716 for 185x60x13 P=3476 for 185x70x13 Or see here for instructions: http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/vdotech.htm

............& so am I!........see you there!

Try George Polley for 2nd hand Yoko slicks. Still crossply so won't need to change ACB10 set-up. 01354-688111.

Guy I'll check tonight. Prop came out of a 1994 De-Dion K series. Only changed as it was 10 years old & the diff was out. Looks OK with no play around the joints. Mick