Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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Are you sure the coolant went into the sump? Not familiar with bike engine configurations but would have thought if you poured coolant into the breather tank it wouldn't end up in the sump. If the engine hasn't been run & assuming the coolant got into the sump, then I'd flush with oil along the same route the coolant got in. Refill with oil & run the engine. Change oil & filter after about a week or so. The alternative is a rebuild. Edited by - Mick Day on 25 Mar 2005 13:38:38
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Thanks for that guys: decisions, decisions............................. ............ for piece of mind I'll buy a new gasket.
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Gerrards is a right hander. Pouhan at Spa is a left hander & I would never let the pressure drop below 2 bar. A sort of governer effect really. Be interesting to see how the new baffle affects my cornering speed! Just another question: I changed the foam 10 months ago & fitted a new sump gasket. Do I need to renew the gasket again when I fit the baffle?
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Have a look here. It all depends on whether it was registered before 1/8/1995
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Isn't this typical. The sump plug's at the lowest point so grounds 1st & the forward motion gradually unscrews it. I hope everyone checks theirs on a frequent basis.
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My Chesil Speedster has a bespoke engine which has no engine number. The registration cert just says engine number unknown. All K series lose their Rover engine number when the block is modified to fit the starter. Caterham stamp their number on the bearing ladder.
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My 4:2:1 exhaust from Caterham came with a "bung" as standard. So maybe ask Caterham, or Cheesemans or indeed anyone who makes exhausts.
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If you mean the inner felt grease seals for the wheel bearings then these can be purchased from Caterham.
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It's amazing what a useful material baling twine is!! 😬
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Justin Heatshield is 29.5" (75cm) long & yes it will fit a 6" dia silencer. Mick
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Jag If it's any help I have a black heatshield from a 4:2:1 Caterham SLR silencer which has never been used. I'll check the measurement tonight & let you know. Mick
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Go on then, count me in.
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"the small "cable" part " can be purchased from Caterham for a few bob or maybe your local Ford dealer will have one.
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A lot of people have kept the standard brakes & improved how they work by changing pads. Hawk carbon/metalic pads are also an alternative here With more agressive pads be prepared to consider the disc as a frequent consumer item; but at £15 a throw it's cheap-as-chips. When changing to the Alcon 4 pots from JW, new hoses are required as the connection to the caliper is different. I have the Alcon calipers & am very happy with the current Green Stuff pads.
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Depends on how strong your arm muscles are Also do you want to be able to view your speedo & tacho 🤔 However your leg problem may determine the diameter. I still think a 270mm gives the best of all worlds with a 22% quick rack.
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I don't know what you wimps are worried about. My wife & I have done many Le-Septs without carrying extra bags; it all goes in the boot. 2 helmets, left & right extremities of the boot, stuffed with underwear. Between the 2 helmets fits a floppy bag with all our clothes. Behind this is the jack bag with a few addional tools. Travel light, Rohan or equivalent is good & make sure it can be washed & dried overnight. We all take too much on holiday so travelling in a 7 reduces it to essentials.
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Cobra or Invalid Carriage 🤔
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Have a look here: http://7faq.com/owbase/ow.asp?HowDoI%2FJackUpMyCar
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But how many engines die because there is a little "old oil" diluted by 10%?
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I can't see what all this fuss is about draining the small amount of oil that remains in the Apollo. When the oil filter is removed everything drains from the Apollo to the bottom of the bottom union, which is only an inch or so off the bottom of the tank. What's this volume? Even if it is 1/2 litre, & I doubt it, it's now going to be diluted with 7.25 litres of new oil (assuming a total fill of 7.5). You don't remove all the oil anyway when the sump plug's removed as there's some in the sump plus some in the top of the engine. Don't worry about it. Taking the drain plug off only causes more worries such as creasing the tank & complaining about the leaks from the difficult to seal drain plug.
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Jan Should be the same as: http://www.hoymotorsport.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/pinout_for_m3dk.htm Mick
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Had this happen at Spa in 2002, couldn't select any gears but could get drive in neutral which very disconcerting. The problem was the gears were picking up on the shafts, all fixed by Road & Race transmissions. Whilst the engine was out I changed the clutch, CRB & pressure plate as a matter of course, however there didn't appear anything wrong with the clutch. Whatever the problem the engine has to come out.
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It all depends on what you want to do with the car. For 1 person touring the standard chassis is more than adequate, so long as you fit in. However for 2 people it does become, well, very cosy. We've done quite a bit of touring in France & the lack of storage for the passenger often means any extras have to be carried in the passenger footwell, or on her lap. As it gets warmer so it can get a little uncomfortable. If your passenger is tall it will be cramped. For track days the SV with its wider track should allow for more power.
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Lol Pilfold had a tow-bar fitted to MTV, not too sure whether he actually used it. I did hear he intended to use the rear half of a defunct Se7en as a trailer. Personally I'd rather give towing with a Se7en a big miss as it rather detracts from the fun. It would be in my top-ten things, not to do, before I die ❗
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I've used a similar battery conditioner for some time. Last May I noticed the acid level was low so topped up with distilled water, the 1st time I've had to top-up a battery. At the end of May it promptly died. It was 3 years old but throughout that time it was maintained on a conditioner. With hindsite I should have checked the acid concentration as the water diluted the acid too much. I now only connect it for half a day for twice a week. That reminds me, must check the electrolyte level.
