Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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The reason for swapping a 1.4 bottom end for a 1.6/8 is because the 1.4 cannot be upgraded with a piston/liner swap: your engine can. 1.8 can be a VVC or a standard head. 1.6 to 1.8 needs new pistons/rods/crank. At this stage most Se7ener's start to get excited about adding lots more go-faster goodies. Have a chat with Oily Hands but see his website 1st here People to do this for you: Oily Hands, Hellier, Hyperion, Freestyle, 7 Workshop etc etc. Just do a search on Blatchat.
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Urgent - who can fit and time verniers to my car?
Mick Day replied to frankyknuckles's topic in TechTalk
Probably carbon monoxide 😬 -
The expansion tank is too low in relation to the water in the head. You need to put a a self bleeding swirl pot/exp tank in the top rad hose.
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Maybe the "separation" took place at the dead of night somewhere?
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With the foam squashed I think it's more likely to deteriorate & break up. Just a thought, maybe its the slight movement of the plate against the bottom of the engine. Last year my baffle plate fractured & had to be replaced. From my 1994 handbook, CC advise replacing the plate on a regular basis as they can break. No mention of any foam though. I wonder when CC started putting the foam in?
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Got rid of my IACV, everything's handled by the GEMS. Car just needs a little throttle for 30 seconds on very cold days & after that it's fine.
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I had a long chat with Gary as I was very tempted to remove the foam altogether. He said it was definitely to reduce the effects of surge so new foam was fitted along with a replacement plate. If you think about it squashing the foam between the plate & bottom of the engine will encourage it to break-up.
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What about the perils of changing a cam belt?
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Fitted my baffle the other day & was quite surprised to find the foam sandwiched between the sump & the windage plate with a nice cut-out made so the oil pick-up could fit in. The foam in this position would certainly retain oil around the pick-up. The pick-up was perfectly clean. I've always thought that fitting the foam above the plate was a bit odd. Gary May serviced the car last as he had to replace the plate as it had fractured.
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Ye Gods: & all Ozzy asked was would a little old oil mix with new oil ❗ Another question: what about friction reducing additives such as this: here. Are they of any benefit or is the additive package in modern oils adequate on their own 🤔
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Think Automotive would probably be the 1st port of call. I know James Whiting has done this conversion in the past so maybe he'd supply?
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Don't worry, when you take the filter off the Apollo tank drains leaving a small amount behind. People get a bit hang up about this; the important thing is that you've put good quality clean oil back in.
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Why is it that people rely on rolling roads so much; why not use a dyno in the 1st place?
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70 psi is 4.8 bar. 59 psi is 4.07 bar. Isn't that enough ❗ When it comes down to it it's about flow of oil & pressure is just part of the equation.
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As a temporary measure you could use some amalgamating tape to wrap the temperature sensor to the hose. It would read lower than the actual oil temp but at least it would give an good approximation.
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I used to have a standard rack (0%) with flares. I fitted cycle wings & a 22% rack which I find more than OK on the road. Small hand movements move the wheels where I want them & it is not twitchy. It's a little heavier at parking speeds but hey a 7 doesn't do much parking or shopping at Tescos ❗
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Just as you say, more air is going through the head as the exhaust is more efficient. Time to change to an Emerald me thinks.
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Flared wings allow for a greater steering lock so when changing to cycle wings you either need to buy a new rack or dismantle & fit jubilee clips inside to limit the travel. Most people use it as a good excuse to change to a quick rack: I did.
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A certain American friend couldn't find his tow-car keys after several laps of the Ring. Yes you've guessed it, same location as my glasses. 😬
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Went for a blat earlier after tinkering with my alternator. Every now & then the steering would partially lock. Very disconcerting. Took the bonnet off to have a look & found my reading glasses were deformed from where they'd fouled the steering column Moral: check the scuttle thoroughly before replacing the bonnett ❗ PS: oh well I suppose I'll have to buy another pair. £1.50 from Boots ❗
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Thanks Steve: just been out for a blat after checking everything around the alternator & the light works fine, even when hot so I'm a little puzzled.
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My alternator seems to be working OK, charges the battery without problem. However once the car is hot if I switch the engine off & then turn the ignition on the red ignition light does not come on. Let the car cool & the red light comes on etc. Checking the voltage at the ignition light contact on the alternator & earth the meter says only 1 volt. At idle & above the voltage at the battery is 14.1v. I've checked the wiring at the alternator & eveything is tight etc. What problem do I have? Failing diode pack?
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My alternator seems to be working OK, charges the battery without problem. However once the car is hot if I switch the engine off & then turn the ignition on the red ignition light does not come on. Let the car cool & the red light comes on etc. Checking the voltage at the ignition light contact on the alternator & earth the meter says only 1 volt. At idle & above the voltage at the battery is 14.1v. I've checked the wiring at the alternator & eveything is tight etc. What problem do I have? Failing diode pack?
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With an Apollo & foam baffle I put in about 7.5l. Oil temp goes up markedly when used hard, maybe 120deg C. & pressure drops to about 3.5 bar on the straight & 2 bar in a long corner. However if I let the oil level drop a little pressure remains at 4 bar & temperature stays at about 90deg C. I haven't tried this on the track as I wimped out & topped up. When my baffle arrives I'm going to try 7l to start with & see what figures I get. If one thinks about it the higher the level, the more the oil is thrashed by the crank, the more air gets into the system & the higher the oil temperature. With the new baffle keeping the pick-up better supplied the slightly lower level may be beneficial. I'll just keep a good eye on the oil pressure & temperature.
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Have a look here especially Ammo's advice.
