Mick Day

Norman I thought you might be taking the Michael but there again just being helpful. Mick

Norman: it can be used in any engine, called K-leak as the company is called Kalimex. Mick

Autocom sell some little windsocks here part number 47, that fits over the mic. to reduce wind noise. Works fine at 70mph. These may fit your Peltor but there again Peltor may have there own version.

Check the expansion tank or maybe just replace it. Get the rad pressure tested. However I'm v suspicious of the pressure cap so change this 1st. At idle the pressure in the system is not that great but once everything gets hot & the water pump is rattling round at x rpm the pressure will increase. I'd be very wary of putting rad weld in . For an everyday cheapy tin-top OK, but................ Check out this product hereif you insist on putting something in the rad. No connection other than I know one of the directors. Another thought: check out the small hose which runs from the front of the inlet manifold to the expansion tank. The clips on mine were done up too tight cutting through the hose, coolant everywhere. Edited by - Mick Day on 15 May 2005 12:19:12

Shouldn't be. Carefully check all the fittings as there must be a way to allow the hose to "lie" without any twist. Fitted mine sometime ago & don't remember this problem.

Assuming it's a K series check all the hoses & then have a look at where the water rail fits to the head at the back of the head on the left hand side. After this look at the inlet manifold gasket. Have a careful look around the thermostat housing on the front right hand side of the block & finally examine the waterpump (this is behind the cam cover but if it leaks water can get onto the alternator belt & it's everywhere). Is there a pin-prick hole in the rad? Oh & it might be an idea to check the cap as they're notoriously unreliable. Edited by - Mick Day on 14 May 2005 14:26:54

Spitting back of course can lead to fires in the air cleaner; seen it happen once & rapidly controlled without damage by quick use of an extinguisher. You all carry one don't you?

My throttle pedal bush partially seized onto the spindle Foot underneath yanked it back but certainly raised my blood pressure.

They All Do That Sir. Standard remark when complaining about the rattle, squeek, leak, in one's new pride & joy.

Fit a cigar lighter socket: suitable for other accessories as well.

More thinking out load: what about using the existing internal pump & pickup as a scavenge pump, exit via the filter sandwich plate to dry-sump tank, new external Pace pressure pump then back in via the filter sandwich plate?

Hmmmmmm........Baffle fitted recently. My experience at Cadwell was OP 4 bar on right handers but down to 2 bar on the left handers very rapidly. I wonder what will happen at long left handers such as Pouhan? I would often see 2 bar here with the foam in the sump (mine wasn't sandwiched) but it would take some while to drop. I'm tempted to drop the sump again & place foam fore & aft of the baffle.

Oh my gawd, here we go again 😬 This thread could be huge yet again

I have a brand new unused black heatguard for this silencer. Blatmail me if interested.

I think I know where this project has come from. This chassis will have been put together with tender loving care & all that is required is an engine. His previous BD engined car was a work of art with no expense spared. If you want a new 7 without the hassle of SVA this would be the one to go for. All you need is a turbo Vx, preferably from Freddy Kumshick, to complete; or maybe a standard Vx, Duratec or K series would suffice.

Doesn't matter where the Apollo is sited (as long as it's not the moon) as far as OP is concerned. One thing to bear in mind is how fast the gauge reacts. A mechanical one is faster than electrical. The Caterham branded gauge is very slow but the older VDO is reasonably quick.

But is this more a function of the Apollo than the Hellier baffle? Sorry Pierre but you've changed too many variable to say the baffle is the cure all.

10W-60 oil? Are you sure? When hot a 60 weight oil will certainly maintain oil pressure at idle.

Leave it where it is & drive it for a few weeks; the vibration is bound to loosen it & it'll fall out.

Fitted mine a little while ago & OP with Caterham 5W-50 & Apollo is the same as before. I've tried chucking it hard around roundabouts & haven't noticed much movement in my VDO gauge. As mentioned before when I dropped the sump I was surprised to find the foam between the sump & the windage plate with a nice cut-out for the pickup to fit into. The foam was in as-new condition. I don't know how long the foam has been in this position as I've always entrusted my car to a professional service every 2 years with me doing the others. Gary May was the last to do this last June. If OP is a problem I wonder if the solution is to keep the Hellier baffle but put shaped foam fore & aft, so-to-speak, of the baffle. Will check OP at Cadwell on the 3rd. One disconcerting thing though is checking the oil level: without the foam it spits up the dipstick tube making a bit of a mess!

Yes/No Yes if it's dry but no if it's wet as the water drainage channels won't work. But I think you have some 21's as well.

Steve I don't think having the bottom wishbone pointing down is going to make much difference to handling. In an ideal world, parallel to the ground, is the place to start & means one has to accept whatever ground clearance one gets; on a smooth track one can go quite low. However unless you want to be winding it up & down for track & then road set the front ride height which gives YOU the sump clearance YOU want then work from there. The rear ride height can then be set about 15mm higher than the front. However a flat floor set-up with Gary is well worth the money. You mention tyres & of course different profiles will give different ride heights. So you could set the ride height YOU are comfortable with for your slicks & your road tyres should give increased clearance for the potholes of Surrey! Edited by - Mick Day on 20 Apr 2005 17:50:17

Blat mail me your email address & I'll send you one of mine.

Back in 2001 a certain ECK had a hole punched in his rad. at the Ring. It was amazing how many people fitted (me included) some protection for the rad within a few weeks. I used galvanised mesh cut to shape & wired to the existing grill. A quick spray with paint finished it off. Edited by - Mick Day on 20 Apr 2005 17:32:39

Is locking them absolutely necessary? I don't think they'll move on their own accord.