Mick Day

Mine is: M10 x 1.25

Big screwdriver then petrol to remove adhesive. Never damaged a wheel yet.

You need to retain the bearings in the A arm (wishbone) with bearing fit.

Having helped out on changing valve springs recently it's easier to remove the head completely. At least then one can examine the valves/head interface & know that everything is in good order. The thought of dropping a collet between the valve & seat, & wasting time getting it out, would give me nightmares, especially if I couldn't find it!

Don't bother with a mechanical battery master unless you're prepared to replace it every year or so. Why? Most cause electrical problems which IMHO detract from the benefits. Doesn't do anything to my ECU when I disconnect the battery.

TADTS! Common problem & the above post explains why. Learn to live with it & invest in some earplugs. Amazing how modern it then sounds! Oh & the 6 speed also does the same. Raising the tickover above 1000 rpm does reduce the input shaft rattle somewhat so something to try along with the earplugs.

If it's any consolation a very nice guy set-up a Pace bulk-buy back in Oct 2005. I received mine 15 minutes before DVA was ready to bolt the sump on in March 2006. Talk about just in time!

Quoting Dave Jackson: there must be something wrong with your bush (phnaar phnaar) or the chassis shirley ?dj Don't you mean Shirley Bassey?

The coil on the side of the block is the one to use & if you have the correct injector wiring that corresponds with the setting on the Emerald then......... so check all plugs are firing when they should. To start the engine needs a correctly timed spark, fuel at the right point & compression. So if it still wont start it must be one of the 3.

Assuming you are using a distributor, have you set-up for batched or sequential injection? What coil are you using?

Coupled with the above comment I think your problem was caused by the PRRT. May I suggest that any other owners who have problems, following a new-fangled thermostat set-up, revert back to the OEM thermostat set-up 1st.

Quoting Grubbster: He also replaced the round expansion tank with the old style flat one (had to make a bracket to enable this as my car doesn't have the mounting points for it). Hmm.... What does the shape of the expansion/header tank have to do with this?

2nd tip: never drain gear oil before removing filler plug...............

I don't see what the problem is. Put the car on stands so the car is level, it's really simple. Get under the car & work out how much to cut off the Allen key. Undo filler plug & check level. A piece of 13mm copper pipe makes a good extension for extra leverage. Drain via drain plug in bottom of box. To fill get long piece of tube & funnel. Warm gear oil in hot water if the ambient temp is low. Feed tube down through engine compartment into filler. Place funnel on tube & fill. Replace filler plug & don't over-tighten. 10 minutes work??

There was also a 4th option as very early Rover K's (pre 1993?) had Rover clutches that required a different input shaft spline. Circa 1995 Low Flying had an article on the K series that showed CC using a long drill to ream out the rear of the crankshaft so the longer input shaft could be used.

Also check your engine earths...................

I'm running more or less the same geometry/ARB as you with wide-track. 1994 chassis. I have 250 ft/lbs on the front & 170 ft/lbs at the rear & this gives a nice neutral set-up. Don't bother with wide-track unless you need new wishbones. If you do the maths 250/170 gives the same (ish) vertical component of spring force at all 4 corners (the front springs being canted at about 45 deg ish). From then on its playing with tyres, pressures, rake & damper adjustment. On the road it is firm but my wife & I do a lot of touring & she doesn't complain.

Could be tempted..........

My way of getting the level correct with Apollo: 1. Fill with approx 6 litres. 2. Start engine & bring to temperature. 3. During the warm-up constantly dip the level to check. Remember with the oil splashing about it's difficult to always see the level with clean oil. 4. When at temp turn off engine & immediately dip. 5. Top up level & recheck as at 4 until you're happy. Now to ensure it is not overfilled monitor the oil temperature. This is easier to do when the engine has been "well used" such as at a track day; more difficult to do in normal road use. If the temperature goes up to 120degC plus then it's overfilled (crank thrashing oil etc). Drain off a small amount (use one of those pump thingies down dipstick tube)till oil temp levels out at about 110 or 115degC. Remember this is the oil temp in extreme situations. Now do some sums based around how much oil to fill less small amount drained gives total fill for next oil change.

Quoting 7heavensoon: That's what I thought! So the air just gets compressed then?The gauge measures pressure & doesn't know (or care) whether that is compressed air or a fluid.

I can't reach my handbrake either, however mine's a proper 7 not one of those namby pamby offerings with a handbrake where my left elbow resides. 😬 😬

That's too much of a Witches Promise Ian!

So I guess you're running an 88 deg C thermostat? If you want it to run cooler then try the 82 deg C option.

Mine would do that & like a lot of owners would always err on the slightly overfull on the dipstick. Resulted in the crank thrashing the oil & heating it up quite quickly to 120. Although I had an Apollo I reckoned the additional aeration wasn't too good either. So I started experimenting with oil levels to find the sweet point where the temperature on track would sit between 100 & 105 (105 is better than 120!). OP wasn't affected. So how did I do this without draining oil? On long touring holidays I'd monitor the oil temp & oil levels & noticed the point where I'd normally top up (to again overfill) equated to a slightly reduced oil temperature. The difference was maybe a 1/4 to 1/3 litre only. Problem went away with a dry sump.

Yokohama did advise that their cross-ply slicks should be fitted with the front tyres running backwards for a RWD car. There were other options advised for FWD/AWD/motorcycle & sidecar as well. The reason is as explained previously. Some have extended this reasoning to treaded tyres but be prepared for much less grip in the wet.