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Mick Day

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Everything posted by Mick Day

  1. Welcome Alan. I used to live in Ivybridge in the 60's & early 70's so all my contacts for that area are long gone. Have you contacted the local AO? here
  2. Do you have a contact number or web site for Highbury?
  3. As the title says. Are there any benefits other than pretty colours with silicone?
  4. Standard clutch (3 years old) will be available in about 1 week. 11350 miles only. Mick
  5. Does anyone know what size socket I need to remove the Apollo sandwich plate? Mick
  6. My powder extinguisher bought from Halfords said replace in 1999 so I thought it's about time. Pressure gauge still in the green & the powder inside would fall up & down with a dull thud. *idea*Before binning it I thought I'd have a bit of fun in the garden. Worked fine! Suppose there was no need to replace it now.
  7. It's frontal area that determines how much air gets in. Bung a few letters in the way then on a hot day it all gets very marginal.
  8. Yes, but at the expense of reduced cooling. Edited by - Mick Day on 28 Oct 2005 18:20:20
  9. I've got a Chesil Speedster built on a 1971 chassis. New engine has no engine number. V5C (new type) says engine number not known. Simple really.
  10. Mine did this when I first had the car 13 years ago; bending the pins helps.
  11. Fitting instructions & pics of the tank here Edited by - Mick Day on 26 Oct 2005 15:51:41
  12. Kev Full system for a K: sump, 3 stage pump, kidney tank in front of engine, all hoses, catch tank. Many thanks Mick
  13. Leave a little early & take a detour to Redline at Caterham here. They should have one. Edited by - Mick Day on 26 Oct 2005 10:00:40
  14. Mike Who's Shirley? Edited by - Mick Day on 25 Oct 2005 20:45:24
  15. Original engine number is ground away when Caterham fit the starter motor. LDF103010 & LEF10004 are almost certainly casting numbers. 1.4 & 1.6 K's share the same crank i.e. a 1.4 crank. The other etched numbers relate to which bearings should be used when mating a crank to a block.
  16. It's the Apollo tank which is delaying full OP. However the noise could be a number of things depending on where it's coming from; top or bottom end. I'd check the OP when running & as long as it doesn't make noises when in use just go with it.
  17. Mick Day

    Squeeky 'K'

    You don't need to remove the Apollo to fit another belt. How? 1. Remove all fittings which hold the tank in place. 2. Disconnect the air vent hose at the top of the Apollo. 3. Thread the new belt over the tank & around the hoses. Oh & slip on a spare belt whilst you're there! 4. Remove old belt & fit the new one. It's a fiddly job.
  18. Check 7FAQ (top right hand corner of this window) for oil levels, depends on spec. It's most likely the quill inside the drive has broken. Take the drive out, you'll need to use circlip pliers to do this, & pull the quill out of the gearbox ( it's about an inch long). It's obvious if it's broken. Other wise the drive is US or maybe it's the plastic connection inside the gearbox.
  19. Hi, & welcome Check the plug/coil cover at the top of the engine. This can come loose & the rattle you describe etc.
  20. Arnie's advice is good advice regarding fueling. In essence the running in is all about sealing the piston rings to the bores. Varied operation with the engine under load & not labouring is what's required.
  21. Originally they would have a copper washer which is not reusable mine now has a dowty washer which is. Halfords have supplies of both the plug & washer, should be a standard Rover part; or get from CC.
  22. Hi Andy Replace it for road use with either an 82 deg one (part no Halfords HTK 605) or a 74 deg one (part no: GTS 1102). I run an 82 deg one & that keeps everything at the "right" temp for me. Keep smiling 😬 Mick
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