Mick Day

Kev I removed the canister some while ago; just pull off the electrical connector, hoses & throw it in the bin. Before you ask it’s not worth trying to sell it; you’ll have to pay someone to take it away! One hose goes all the way back to the fuel tank via a one way valve under the boot. The other hose goes up to the fuel rail & plugs into the fuel pressure regulator. Remove this hose as well. You’ve now saved some weight! Now the hose that goes back to the tank can be pulled through the tunnel & you can then do the mod as mentioned by Myles.

What about the front of the drivers foot-well?

Just a thought: if the hole is tapped why not seal it with a nice set screw from the outside. If it isn't tapped why not tap it etc. If relying on a nut & bolt just make sure the nut is on the outside.

It runs to the filler neck, however I don't think it's necessary & I will be deleting it.

Bump Steer: Caterham supply shims to raise the rack. Paul you have mail re your write-up. Mick

The relay mod cures the problem caused by the existing relay in the MFRU (multifunctional relay unit?). There are 4 relays in side: starter motor solenoid; lambda heater; fuel pump & injectors. The theory is that the starter relay contacts pit very easily & produce too high a resistance etc. Bypassing this relay with an external relay helps to solve the problem. Running the solenoid wire inside some heat resistant sleeving helps a bit but look on the wire & relay as annual consumables for best reliability.

A 22% on the road is spot on. Just think the car to the right & it just goes, same to the left; all it takes is slight wrist movement. It suits my lazy style of driving. Who wants to yank on a few armfulls of lock just to pass the car in front?

I don't see why not, however best to check that it will fit with maybe DVA. You will also need a gasket & dowel set, vernier pulleys & a suitable ECU. Dave has the head at MK & can no doubt fit it for you for his usual fee. It came off my 1.6k & should make about 175BHP.

Try here for the engine loom itself. Although based on the VVC wiring there are common componants with EU2 & EU3 based non VVC engines.

Just refurbished by the man himself: New VHPD valve guides, seats recut & the chambers blended to cope with the deeper seats. The Paul Ivey valves have all been cleaned & lapped. New oil seals & the followers have been re-shimmed to the correct clearances. The head is fully assembled in a poly bag with BP285M (740 mechanical grind) cams & is ready to fit. £850.00 I also have a standard K16 head fitted with BP270H cams in good condition. £250.00 Cams sold to Gilles POINSIGNON Edited to reduce prices. Edited by - mick day on 17 Jan 2006 14:01:09 Edited by - mick day on 27 Jan 2006 18:32:34

Let's hope the "Jane" lives up to expectations 😬

Thanks for that Kev & again thanks for all your hard work. I keep popping into Milletts for the odd bit of clothing but have never thought of shopping there for a catch tank 😬 I wonder whether the old wet sump gasket, suitably trimmed, could be used?

Thanks Dave. Mick

No, mines a VDO tacho as supplied by Caterham in 1994. After about 1996 Caterham switched to their own brand made by Caerbont here

Standard components in good condition. Crank has had spigot bearing & sleeve installed. Donation to NTL please, buyer collects.

What year is your 1.4ss? I have a VDO tacho to fit a 1994 car. Blatmail me if this is what you want.

Hi Kev: any news on progress? Does any body know whether we'll need a modifed Caterham bottom rad hose? It's required for a Caterham/Titan dry sump system presumably to clear the scavenge pump.

They have, it's called an aeroscreen 😬

Most of the switches are illuminated when the lights are on. However if you pop the switches out beware the wiring loom is v short. Often the power supply wire comes off & it's v difficult to get it back on again without taking the scuttle off.

I have a green leather covered dashboard that will be available end of January. Complete with all gauges (less speedo) & switches if required.

Pair of yellow 13" cycle wings available, 4 years old, some gell crazing where stones have hit the underside: £20.00 2 headlamp stays for a live axel car, bought by mistake, never used: £40.00

Hmmmmm............................. My daughter is the shortest Day & coincidentaly born on .....21st December ❗

Have a look here. This clamps to the bottom rail of the dash then use the relevant base/arm mount to give you the complete solution.

The verticle bit comes off with the scuttle. Remove w/s & any wires, undo 2 nuts at each side of the scuttle, drill out 1 rivet either side of scutle. Undo w/s wiper spindle nuts & disconnect washer jet. Pull scuttle off. It'll probably have a good dollop of silicone so it takes a bit of force. Careful you don't distort it. Horizontal bit is a little more difficult as it is under the sideskins plus the steering column support will have to be removed. You'll probably have to remove the master cylinder as well. So once that's all done & all the rivets drilled out it can be removed & either powder coated of painted. Personally I would get it sprayed satin/matt black in situ as it'll probably be easier; or get the alloy polish out ❗ I'd get the polish out ❗ Black pop rivets are available from Caterham.

Get them set up at a garage, shouldn't cost too much. Then put the car a car's length away from the wall & mark on the ground the 4 wheels & also the beam cut-off points on the wall. Easy to check another time then. I have a tandem double garage so my marks are on the inside of the door.