Mick Day

Spoke to Pace this morning & my kit is being sent out for guaranteed delivery on Friday. I can also confirm that Neil has been completely open about the delivery delays & I too have found him a 1st rate person to deal with.

Sh1t! Just bought a brand new tunnel carpet from CC. Angus: My old bulkhead carpet was so manky it walked on it's own to the tip! I've had my new bulkhead powder coated but there's always the CF option. I'm putting carpet on the tunnel because it's a little more forgiving when I bang my left knee on it!

I spoke to Neil on Tuesday (yesterday) & deliveries should start this week. I'm hoping mine will arrive by Friday.

Er..........left hand drive in the USA Paul......... If you've removed the wipers the bracket isn't doing much so go ahead & remove it. I don't think it's structural; just remember you'll need to re-site the earth bundle. Unless you need the switch for competittion I'd ask myself why fit it? I've seen a few cars stranded because of problems with the switch. The long cable runs can cause starter problems because current to the starter is reduced. Also the switch should be replaced frequently as the contacts can deteriorate.

If you drive fast enough you can't see the wheel nuts 😬

Yes saw it as well; had a good look at the labelling & there's no API/SAE rating. Same as Caterham's 5W50 in that respect. If it's made by Comma then it's certain to be the same as Caterham's brand.

here ...............................& all will br revealed.

Dave If you send me a Blatmail I'll email you a pic of my input shaft. My car started life as a 1.4 & was upgraded to a 1.6 a while ago. The input shaft had to be shortened. Mick

I've just spoken to Neil at Pace. He says production will commence over the W/E with shipping on Tuesday/Wednesday next week. I have an engine build booked with DVA next Friday & I'd like the sump on to protect the new bottom end. Very frustrating, let's hope they get their act together. At this stage a Caterham dry sump is looking very tempting. Edited by - Mick Day on 10 Mar 2006 15:49:11

My car is a 1994 K series. The original manual recomends the baffle be replaced every 12,000 miles as it can break up, there is no mention of any foam.

*thumbup*TSK: 01322-441604

No Tony I still have a working Vecta. However in a week or 2 it will be history as at 12 years old it will fail sometime; probably in the middle of France in a thunderstorm ❗

You have an airlock which has probably cleared. Plus on cold days like today your thermostat may be just opening enough for a dose of cold water from the rad to promptly close it again. Try running with some blanking in front of the rad.

Most likely it's a Vecta imobiliser, company now defunct, probably disconnected because it failed. A small key was inserted into the slot to disarm. Don't bother with it. If you want to get the LED to flash try connecting 12v across it & see what happens. Alternatively replace the LED with a flashing one from Vehicle Wiring Products.

Forgot I hadn't cashed the cheque I'll get round to it next week.

Mark If all things go to plan I should be dropping your flywheel off at Daves on the 17th March. Mick

OK here goes; it's quite simple. You need a simple relay such as this from Vehicle Wiring Products here I'm assuming you have an aftermarket ECU such as an Emerald, MBE or a GEMS? I have a GEMS, you may have an MBE. The ECU acts as a switched earth. So pin number 6 is the one you want on the ECU. Have a look here for the ECU pinouts. Mount the relay near the fan & wire terminal 6 of the ECU to terminal number 85 on the relay. 12 volts ignition switched +ve is supplied to 86 & 30 & the fan is plugged into number 87. Good luck Mick

Hi Chris Welcome to the madness that is 7 ownership. Isn't it great to know that you can pose a question & get several answers all within a period of a few nano seconds! Angus & Tesa's site is always worth a visit & their treatise on tyres is well worth a read. You have a 1.4SS which is where I started. You've probably worked out that 21's in 70 profile are dirt cheap from G Polley & I would put 185/70/13 tyres on all round for road use regardless of the power output. As pointed out you do not need 205 wide tyres at the back. 21's also have a habit of lasting longer than 48's & 32's but can cut up a bit on hot track days. However as each tyre costs less than the average tin-top to fill with petrol............................ consider it a track day consumable. If the track day bug bites, & sometimes it can leaving huge scars on your wallet, then invest in "better" tyres. Mick

Never, ever give offspring the return address Only joking 😬

Have a look herefor brackets which'll hold your sat nav/PDA system on the bottom rail of the dash. Can then be easily used in a 7 with aeros.

What's the issue on clear indicator lenses? They look awful; it's just a fashion statement. I can get any bathroom colour I want at the moment as long as it's white. It won't be long before the manufacturers see sales of loos & baths declining & reach for the new colours such as advocado & sh!t brown again. It's just a flashing light after all ❗

Gosh word gets round quick. However it looks as though we've got it sorted.

Anybody able to transport 4 wheels to Co Durham?

Perceived opinion is that the chassis powder coating was OK up to about 1994 ish. I've just stripped my 1994 chassis & was pleasantly surprised at the lack of rust. True some powder coating did strip off on the bottom rails but it was shiny steel underneath. Instead of re-powder coating I've had the affected parts painted with 1 pack satin black. Edited by - Mick Day on 1 Mar 2006 17:22:51

1 x 13 x 6 new Minator wheel, shod with a never used 185x60x13 AO48, for sale. Cost £130 from G Polley in June 2004. 1 x 13 x 6 new Minator wheel, shod with a never used 185x70x13 AO21, for sale. Cost £110 from G Polley in March 2004. A048..........£104.00 A021..........£88.00