Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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If it's low on oil any oil is preferable to seriously low oil. Is your 911 air cooled? If so then many people advise using mineral oil as it's better at cooling the engine than synthetic; one just has to change it more frequently.
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All tyres wear 😬 As I understand it toe-in will give better straight line tracking but the car is more reluctant to turn in to the corner. Toe-out gives the reverse. However once you have your reliable datum play around & see what you like. Edited by - Mick Day on 19 Apr 2006 16:20:40
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First have it set straight; try it & see how you like it. You can then set a little toe-in & try that or indeed have a play with some toe-out. It's v easy to change yourself but you need a reliable datum to start with.
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*idea*YHM
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Would that be H.F Smallridge & Son by any chance? I've always found them v helpful with MOT's in the past.
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Sorry to be a kill-joy but if it's just touching it'll probably wear through the bonnet over time. I've seen a rad holed this way where it was just touching the nose-cone.
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Mine's an early box: No. 149. 1996.
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My box was serviced by them in November. As part of that service a stronger 5th gear was fitted.
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However there are some 6 speed upgrades that would be desirable. Stronger 5th gear plus some other bits & pieces that Phil Stewart at R & R (01959-525105) could advise on.
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Neil Patterson from Pace told me to use a standard Ford filter on the Pace remote housing. However I bought a new filter head from Think (part number FH6) which has a -10 inlet for pressurised oil back into the engine & takes the Rover filter. Edited by - Mick Day on 16 Apr 2006 10:03:02
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Thanks Casbar: 3 or 4 turns it is then. Edited by - Mick Day on 15 Apr 2006 20:24:54
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The instructions say: "Make sure you tighten the locking nut on the pressure adjusting screw ( you need to guess the initial setting and adjust for the correct pressure once up and running), else you can get some leakage where the screw emerges." So to those who've done it before, how much do I screw it in to start with?
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Think do all sorts of converters so if you have a M10 sensor & a 1/8 NPTF "hole" it can be screwed into the converter which is then screwed into the "hole".
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Took me 4 days to strip my 12 year old car down to a bare chassis keeping the tunnel, rear suspension/prop shaft plus the wiring loom. Luckily v little corrosion so decided to paint the bottom rails with 2 pack paint. Got the chassis back on the 4th February & so far I've taken about 20 days, included quite a bit of rewiring with all new dash, switches & gauges. Hoping to get back on the road for 23rd April with a RR session booked on 28th. It does take time but I'm sure when finished it'll be something you'll enjoy for years to come.
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Felix Now that you've bypassed the built in relay, with another one, remember that the new relay may sometimes (but not always) exhibit the same symptoms after a year or so. This could be the relay contacts corroding or the starter solenoid in need of a clean. I replace my relay every year just in case; it's only a few quid. Mick PS: Just seen you're from Yealmpton. Used to pick up fish & chips here when coming back from the beach. Also remember a certain girl from Yealmpton I was at school at Plympton Grammar in the 60's. Edited by - Mick Day on 10 Apr 2006 13:05:26
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Could be the alternator belt slipping.
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Thanks Peter, thats one less thing for me to worry about. Mick
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So does anybody know whether there is a difference in the tooth pattern between a Rover 1.6 flywheel from 1999 & a 2005 Caterham R500 style flywheel?
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Methinks it's time to ring Pace: have they supplied the correct belt?
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Nearly ready to fit the engine so finishing the final engine dressings bits. Fitted the pump belt yesterday & thought it might be a bit of a stuggle, however it's quite slack: is this OK?
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Hi Jerry I've been watching this thread as my car is a much modified Componant car from 1994. Strictly speaking all cars with a K or a C as the 6th digit should be identified as amateur built cars; let's hope the DVLA/VOSA computer link realises this. Mick
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It sounds as though you've still got the original head on the car. When you take this off some of the retained coolant in the head may find it's way into the oil ways. I'd change the oil when you swap heads. Probably easier to fit the Apollo at the same time as well.
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Couldn't you just drive it enthuseastically?
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Isn't RiF working on something like this?
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Not my better knowledge John, gleaned from Phil Stewart at R & R the other day.
