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Mick Day

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Everything posted by Mick Day

  1. T-cut or indeed metal polish won't hurt glass. Done this many times in the past when overspray has appeared on the windows. However be careful if the front surface is silvered, as on some plastic mirrors, as this will remove the reflective surface quite rapidly.
  2. The Dremel concept is good but at around £100 I found it poor value when it fell to pieces after little use, & sadly out of warranty. Purchased a similar German made product for £20 which completed the task in much greater style.
  3. Have a look at SPA here. No connection just a satisfied customer.
  4. Also check your pedal isn't sticking. Take the pedal box cover off & have a look.
  5. Hi Martin If you have no history of coolant change then I would change it before the winter. How accurate are these testers ? : reasonably accurate I would have thought. If I do top up and drain say a litre of fluid from the radiator and add the same amount of fresh antifreeze to the header tank will I encounter any airlock type problems? Might do, might not. However if you have no history how do you know which to add? Does the fresh coolant really get mixed in or does it tend to stay in header tank?: It'll get mixed in. Bite the bullet & replace all hoses now with fresh coolant. CC recommend Comma Xstream Longlife Red which is probably what you have in at the moment.
  6. Think Automotive can supply the Dowty washers as they used to put the kits together for CC. They should know what size as well. However if you have the fittings in front of you just measure the diameter & order from here 0208 568 1172 http://www.thinkauto.com/
  7. Take the pedal box cover off whilst fitting & do it from above.
  8. DVA uses an AOL email address. AOL addresses suffer from delivery problems from time to time. We dread our customers who have these addresses as they often bounce for no other reason than: 1: AOL accuse every other company of sending spam so block everything; 2: Lots of traffic & their servers can't cope. 3: Bu$$eration factor.
  9. Mick Day

    Spa Guage

    Send me a Blat mail & I'll send you a scan.
  10. Uncle Those CSR lights are from SVC. Available as LED or with regular bulbs.
  11. Uncle The small round lights found on Freddies rear wings look the same as the front indicators. Land Rover items I believe. Have a look here for these & other options.
  12. maybe clear houshold silicone will stop the collector rattling
  13. I'll buy it.......................................... .................I've been offered £250,000 by Tate Modern to display in one of their large halls! 😬 😬 😬 AKA Damien Hurst
  14. I have a Caerbont OP gauge/sender in another car. When compared to a Think mechanical gauge it reads about half what it should. Bought a new sender & still the same so sent both gauge & sender back to Caerbont & asked them to calibrate it properly. They kept it for about a month & sent it back in the same state. I'd change to a different make but it would mean changing all the gauges & I can't yet find a supplier to supply the period look I want. Incidentaly my 7 used to have VDO gauges, no problem with the senders or the gauges over 12 years although I did have to change the OP sender after 8 years. The second sender got a bit scored when I ran the car too low at a track day a few years ago but still worked OK until I changed to SPA this year.
  15. Same spec as Shaun's engine. However I had to fit an uprated fuel pressure regulator as the injectors came from my 1.6 & were on 100% duty cycle with the standard FPR. The biggest plus with this engine is the good low down torque. One doesn't have to rev the nuts off to make progress on the road.
  16. Do a Google with EPC & VW. My best was EPC =Electronic Power Control. However it seems this light has come on for an awful number of VW owners for many (undiagnosed?) reasons. The closest to a your problem is maybe here
  17. If I manage to buy the flat cam cover that Stu is selling then my cam cover will be for sale. The cover has been drilled for an Apollo but now has a v neat black painted bolt in situ. The plug cover was painted gold with smooth Hamerite over the last winter.
  18. Hi Kev, looks like we missed each other at Spa the other day, probably skulking away from the rain like me. Yep mines the same as yours. SPA gauge set to psi, 70 deg oil: 40 at 3000rpm, 65 at 4000 rpm, 75 at 5000rpm. Minister recommend a minimum of 60psi at 4000 for their R500 engine so that's the one I'm most concerned with. Idle, yes it drops to 14 psi at 1000. However does this really matter as there's little load? Oil 5/40 synthetic, & no cooler or laminova Edited by - Mick Day on 21 Sep 2006 15:03:44
  19. Roger Have a look here, right at the bottom of the page.
  20. Forgive me if I'm wrong but I thought the Laminova was designed to allow the oil to come up to temperature more rapidly & once there for it to be equilibrated via the water jacket & ultimately the rad. If it's plumbed into the bottom hose (or top hose come to that)it wont start to work until the thermostat opens. At that point the oil will be cooler than the water so will possibly close the thermostat causing it to cycle open/close for a while until the water/oil temps equilibrate. So would it not be better to plumb it into the bypass hose? Heat will be transfered to the oil during warm up, & once water & oil are up to temperature the thermostat will open sending water through the rad. As I see it the 2nd method gets temperatures equilibrated far sooner & avoids the potential for the thermostat to cycle open/close during warm up. The 1st method only warms the oil once the thermostat has opened.
  21. Think you might find it's the FIA switch thats to blame.
  22. Replacement horns from CC are earthed through the body of the horn so there's only one wire to it. So get a meter & check if one of the terminals is connected to the horn body. If not then it probably doesn't matter which way round you connect it.
  23. Mine used to do this until I used Redline MTL oil.
  24. Often it's not over adjusted brakes that do this. When the brakes shoes get moist they can get stuck to the drums. Rocking the trailer back & forward often does the trick or alternatively whack the offending rim with a baseball bat or suitable length of 3 x 3. Used to have to do this with mini brakes as well a few moons ago!
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