Mick Day

When I installed my pump the adjuster was only finger tight so a couple of turns seemed right. In view of what Johnty has said it would be worth checking where the adjuster is at the moment & maybe unscrewing it to finger tight & going from there. Screwing the adjuster in increases pressure: in effect it's an adjustable pressure release valve.

Instructions I followed were as follows: "Make sure you tighten the locking nut on the pressure adjusting screw ( you need to guess the initial setting and adjust for the correct pressure once up and running), else you can get some leakage where the screw emerges." So I think I screwed it in about 2 turns. Start the engine & check OP through the warm up stage. Once the oil is above 50 c drive the car & check OP through the rev range. I set mine so that I had a minimum of 60psi at 4000rpm & above. Most of us with Pace pumps notice that OP at hot idle can drop; mine is about 13psi. I don't think this is anything to worry about as it's the pressure under load, & of course higher revs, that matters.

I've got a hacksaw!!.................. 😬

Glad to be of help

Earth not required for this switch. Most likely problem is your hazard switch: either get a new one or turn it on & off a few hundred times. Current has to flow through this switch for hazards to work; contacts corrode as it's not used very often. Second possible problem is a bad earth. Third likely problem: make sure the flasher relay is making good contact. On mine I had to bend the pins slightly as it used to fall out.

Get the water rail gasket from Caterham. Made from the same material as the cam cover/sump gasket, not paper.

Nic Big thing to remember: once you've drained the sump do remember to put the drain plug back in Mick

Early 6 speed boxes use a gasket between box & bell housing, I also use a smear of silicone on the gasket just to make sure. Later 6 speed boxes do not use a gasket. How can you tell? Later boxes have an O ring seal around the selecter (I think that's what it is ) which pokes forward at the top of the box.

I've taken the hoodsticks off but still retain the old boot cover. It does sag a little however when touring one can get more in the boot as the cover "tents" a little over the contents.

Hi I assume you've seen these pics here 🤔

My 7 had VDO sensors/gauges & I never had a problem, even when the OP sensor was worn away after a little curb practise! Now running SPA gauges. However on my other car (non 7) I have Caerbont gauges. I bought another OP sensor as the gauge wouldn't read correctly - no change. In desperation I sent the gauge & sensor back to Caerbont 7 asked them to calibrate it correctly - no change. So I now rely on a Mocal mechanical gauge which is much more reliable. Yes in my eyes Caerbont are cr4p. Edited by - Mick Day on 17 Dec 2006 17:21:44

Is this an adjustable one? Cancel that.......................wrong forum...................thought it was for sale Edited by - Mick Day on 15 Dec 2006 20:54:29

A few years ago my Dad was travelling down a Devon country lane after dark. Coming towards him were 2 headlights close together. Considering it to be a motorbike he travelled accordingly. Up close it was an extra wide tractor

See here

Steve Greenald at Track n Road also do Weber set-ups as well as the more exotic stuff. 07774-773824

Matt I'll bring my gun next Saturday 😬 Mick

It takes about 30 seconds. 1.Arrive at MOT place with big nut under headlights slightly loose. 2.Let them use the big boxey thing to check allignment. 3. Wait for them to say they're out a bit . 4. Point out they were fine before & they must have become loose. 5. Oh yes they say as they position the beam correctly. 6. Suggest they do up the big nut so they don't get loose again. 7. Offer to pay for the allignment. As it only took them 30 seconds it might cost nothing. 1. When you get home position the car (after dark) in front of a wall or garage door about 1 car's length away. If you have a tandem double garage use the inside of the garage door. 2. Mark the position of the front wheels. 3. Shine the dipped beam on the wall/door & mark the postion of the beam on the wall/door. You now have a reliable way of checking it for neaxt time.

We missed you Steve. How's your wife? And more importantly how was Paul Rodgers?

What is a Caterham relica? here I suppose Caterham can pat themselves on the back as there's some sad people out there

When I bought my K series car in 1994 there was none of this namby pamby checking with the engine running etc. Wet sump engines were filled to the notch on the yellow plastic dipstick & the manual said it would take 4 litres with filter, & it did. There is also no mention of a foam baffle so gawd knows when that arrived. A few years later, as people became more adventurous with their cars, there were oil feed problems & we were advised to "overfill a tad"; most added an extra half litre. Then we were told to check the level with the engine running, or within 30 seconds of turn off. The Apollo tank arrived to remove the air & "which oil" became a religion. Now I mention all this because the dipstick in my engine stayed the same in all it's incarnations until the dry sump arrived. Oil temperature could be a problem as too high a level led to the oil being whacked by the crank. I used to find if I kept the level of the oil at the notch, measured within a few seconds of turning off, this would enable reasonable oil temperature on track with consistant 4 bar OP (VDO gauge) in a straight line. Anything above & the temp would quickly head to 120 C & the OP would drop. So that notch was "well cut" back in 1994 & I would find an oil change volume of 7 litres with Apollo would do the biz. So yes check where that notch is & compare it to the high/low markings on the metal stick. Also keep a record of oil change volumes & compare the level. Keep a log of oil temperatures & relate them as near as possible to the oil level & volume added.

I wouldn't worry too much just spray some in. I've made many adjustments to mine including a re-skin & I don't hear anything with earplugs. And mine's a K series.

The trick with the rubber ones is to drive at crawling speed, 2 or 3 mph (really uspests white van man). Any faster & the front wheels lift, & as they come down thump on the sump. I would say 100% of wet sumps have witness marks of previous contact & yes some will crack, sometimes at the slightest contact. Trying to explain that to someone else might be difficult so why not take the Se7en yourself? Alternatively, if you have adjustable ride-height, raise it by 20cm, making sure the rake is kept more or less the same. Make a note of the number of turns so you know where you are.

Hi John *idea*Why not try Tony at TSK: 01322-441604. He did John Reeks 7, as well as a few others.

Lifting points?...anywhere on the chassis really; I've seen a pallet lifter used to good effect. Parking another car underneath?............why not, but make sure the top car doesn't leak onto the nice white leather interior underneath

Those are most likely where the front light loom exited the body onthe way to the lights. Most likely your car has the later light brackets with the internal wiring.