Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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Roger Have a look here at the bottom of the page.
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The 2 joined brown/red wires should go to the battery live terminal & generally do so by taking a tortuous long route around the engine. I removed all this & connected it directly to the big red wire on the starter (which is connected to the battery live anyway).
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I haven't got a spare one but I've been tempted to get one of these here
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When my car was converted from a 1.4 to 1.6 in 2000 I initially kept the old alternator, but it fouled the Apollo piping so swapped it for the later smaller alternator. I would think the 2 large brown/red wires are joined together & should go to the the battery live; the other (smaller) wire (Brown/Yellow) goes to the alternator warning light.
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Just leave the clutch cable connected till the final moment. Hand pressure on the clutch alone is enough to separate the engine from the bellhousing.
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Odyssey 545 battery *thumbup* *thumbup*
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Interesting . My car had the same bearings in place from production in 1994 to 2003. No problem with MOT & this is a critical test. In 2004 I replace the bearings as a precautionery measure & at the MOT in 2005 I get an advisory. So are the bearings now of a poorer quality???? In early 2006 I changed to wide track with new bearings so will be interesting to see what happens for the MOT in June. Last time I checked (2 months ago) no discernable play after 2000 miles. -
I can't understand this insistance on removing all the old oil. Some people seem to go to great lengths, refill with oil & then drain it again in maybe a few thousand miles. All I do is open the drain to the tank, take the filter off & let it drain for a while, preferably whilst warm. Then re-fill with fresh oil/filter. As long as the oil is regularly changed (5000 miles or every 9 months) I'm happy. To answer a previous question it's worth adjusting the pressure adjuster an eighth to a quarter of a turn & run so that the hot pressure is between 60 & 80 psi at 4000 rpm. Edited by - Mick Day on 25 Apr 2007 13:21:42
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*wavey*Can echo the Halfords part number, HTK 605, for an 82 deg thermostat to fit a K. Did the same: opened loads of boxes to find one of the correct size.
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anyone know a supplier for 1.5mm ID vacuum hose?
Mick Day replied to MartinWoodham's topic in TechTalk
Halfords usually keep a good selection of hoses & such like in stock. Or maybe any motor factors? -
It has been done on a certain series 1.....................& years later converted back to a manual. Although my tin-top is an auto a 7 needs a 4 (or 6) on the floor.
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Yellow is the colour of my.................... Based on Caterham chassis is the closest it's got to Arch. Yuk!
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Roger I've only changed my thermostat once & that was with the engine out. However I do wonder whether it would be easier to access the housing from underneath ? Mick
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I used a 1 litre Castrol gear oil carton in the old canister bracket. Worked OK.
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The clutch could be dragging or it might even be a faulty spigot bearing. However when this happened to me the gears had started to pick up on the main shaft. To check get in the car & start it on level ground. With your foot off the brake, & in neutral, does the car creep forward? If so your gearbox needs a rebuild or the sigot bearing needs replacing..
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The only time I've known this happen was when they wern't torques up properly. And yes they should be a half height nyloc. It could be that a normal nut was fitted & in this case could come undone. I'd be checking all the other suspension fasteners to check that all is well.
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Check whether one has to do this adjustment hot or cold.
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Steve We have the same SPA gauges & I've noticed this as well. I think it's more to do with battery voltage. With the ignition on the battery voltage is lower than when the engine is running. My fuel pump has a 15amp fuse so the voltage drop when this is switched on is enough to lose a few litres or vise versa. To confirm switch the ignition on & then switch the headlights on & see what happens to the gauge. Mick
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As long as the o ring is in good condition & it gives a positive fit it'll be OK. The baffle plate does need to be replaced & also checked to see whether it is starting to crack/break-up. If you look at the bottom of the pick-up it has 3 pips in it to allow it to just touch the bottom of the sump. To allow adequate oil into the pick-up punch 3 upward creases into the pick-up between these pips. I used a big screwdriver!
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Make sure you're undoing anticlockwise Clean the filter with something to remove all grease & oil. Clean the chain as well. Move the chain wrentch as far up to the filter head as possible & then try again. If that fails go back to the middle of the filter & compress the filter enough to shorten the wrench by 1 tooth. If still not budging wrap something non-slip around the filter (the stuff one puts on the dashboard to stop things sliding around springs to mind) & try again nearer the head of the filter. If this fails then drill a hole through the filter about half way along; put something through to act as a tommy-bar; position the chain wrentch at the head of the filter & heave.
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This time last year I sat puzzling over which leads go where in the distributor. A quick call to Dave Andrews & he kindly told me the numbers are stamped on the outside of the cap. 😳
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T9 speedo drive - does it need blanking off?
Mick Day replied to Alex Wong1697456877's topic in TechTalk
Alex If the Quafe box is the same as a Caterham 6 speed/type 9 etc then there is a blanking plate solution available from Ford dealers; it doesn't cost much. It can be fitted in the car but it really requires a small hole in the tunnel as space is tight. Gary May did my 6 speed in situ, & got the bits from Phil Stewart (Road & Race Transmissions). Just get informed consent from the car before drilling holes. Mick -
I ran a VDO gauge with a Caterham sender for oil temp. I calibrated it in some boiling water & discovered one had to add 50% to get the correct reading. So 70 on the gauge is 105 in the oil.
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Orange bulbs & clear lenses.........................Yuk 🙆🏻 Why??? Fashion??? Yuk 😔
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*wavey*Skinflint Engine removal/reinstallation is always looked upon as a dark art........................until you've done it yourself................ It's actually quite easy. If I can do it then................ It helps if you have an engine crane. When picking up a new car from a dealer a few years ago my daughter, who sensed the salesman knew nothing (about anything) asked me how long it would take to get the engine out. The salesman said they couldn't be removed beacuse they were sealed by the factory Edited by - Mick Day on 23 Mar 2007 16:42:29
