Mick Day

From under the dash, runs under the tunnell cover as does the connection for the GPS.

Mines velcroed to the rear bukhead just behind my seat.

I have it on good authority that the numbers for the lottery are: 11,12,13,14,15,7.

Angle grinder is the preferred method. If you send me a Blat Mail I can send you some pictures of my input shaft with a ruler alongside.

Check the flasher unit hasn't fallen out.

Yes: jack up the gearbox until it's wedged up against the tunnel, stops it from wobbling around. If the engine doesn't slide onto the input shaft after a few minutes go & have a cup of something as when you get back it almost jumps on. I have to admit that these tricks & the one with the clutch are not my original ideas but copied from others. 😬

Tim Why do you need to remove the filter? Also remember to support the "arm" with another spanner when doing up the fitting. Mick

Read the disclaimer at the bottom, it's only a "selected list" not an inclusive one. Laser detectors are still legal in the UK. Laser jammers are not.

Martin You might be interested in this here. Blatmail on it's way. Mick

Leave clutch cable connected; light hand push on the clutch pedal at the right moment moves the engine off gearbox.

Any pics? Edited by - Mick Day on 11 May 2007 18:14:53

Pace test fit every pump to their tame block to ensure belt tension is correct, however their block was produced from one of the many casting moulds which means there will be small differences in the machined surfaces. When I fitted my system I could flick the belt off with my little finger. Received advice was that I would have to fit some spacers & ended up using 0.5mm shims. I know of one instance where the belt snapped through overtension & this is possibly the weakest link. Belts from different manufacturers will also show variance in belt length. I had my completed system checked by Pace & yes I will change the belt every year. Ali engines "grow" so belt tension will increase once hot. A wider belt would help & I think Pace are able to supply a wider crank pulley to enable this.

Where's the fall over whilst laughing smiley when you really need it?

Unfortunately it's not that easy anymore. In the "good old days" when PC Plod would whack you round the head if you were caught scrumping apples todays more "modern" police are beset with targets. So when Plod goes out with his gun he's expected to come back with a nice lot of pending prosecutions: being sensible doesn't count. Standard 3 pointers count for maybe 1 nick on his trunchoen & being 30mph over counts for more nicks. He's just doing his job & he has to measure up like any other government employee. 10 years of rigid socialist dogma has taken away any discretion as his job & promotion prospects depend on results. The public therfore have less respect for the police. Target obsessed police & health care workers now see their job as meeting targets. "The operation was a great success as I met my targets. Bit of a shame the patient died"

Alex That's what I did for a few years but the voltage drop at the end of this now very long wire is quite a bit. Also the fan works on a 15 amp fuse so current flow is quite high. In the end I fitted a 30 amp relay & sited it by the fan: Terminal 85 is a switched earth (override switch &/or ECU) Terminal 86 is 12v supply (I used the green feed to the now redundant fan switch) Terminal 30 is 12v supply (again green feed) Terminal 87 is black/green to fan

DOT 3.0, DOT 4.0 & DOT 5.1 are all regular brake fluids; DOT 5.0 is silicone based. Silicone fluid cannot be mixed with regular brake fluids. If in any doubt change the fluid & really this should be done every 2 years at least. Have a look here

Neither have I until the thermoswitch in my 7 failed after 18 months use in 1995. It's a VW part so I fitted an override just in case. My fan is now switched via the ECU but the override is still there just in case. A mate of mine has a TVR & lot's of bits go wrong; mainly electrical. All these items come from other production cars where they survive quite happily until the car's scrapped. Specify a part for an original installation then test it to death in that installation & it'll work for yonks. Take it out of that environment (in a Caterham or TVR?) & the shape of the envelope changes leading to premature failure.

Caliper to upright: 40 - 45 ft/lbs

Jon Indeed the Swilrlpot is the way to go. Note that the design for a K series will vary from the Vx as the hose angles are different. Get rid of the Rover header tank & get a swirlpot with a proper 15 psi rad cap. Mick

I've had my 6 speed since 1996. It's been rebuilt 3 times & each time it comes back it's a bit notchy until it runs in. MTL makes a big difference. So get under, drain the oil & fill with MTL; then get out & wear it out! You can get MTL from here, you'll need 2 quarts.

The overide switch is needed as a backup for when the fan thermoswitch fails. TADTS

To undo the bottom nut: jack up the front of the car; use a separate jack under the lower wishbone to raise the wishbone; when at the right level, use a standard socket to undo the nut.

My 1994 1.4 K was supplied with a wiring diagram for what looks like a crossflow! I don't think Caterham got round to a wiring diagram for the "old" 1.4 until the late 90's. My car was converted to a 1.6 in 2000 & James Whiting had great fun with the wiring. The diagram in the build manual here is closeish except for the fuse layout & immobiliser. However I would of thought it best to strip of the loom tape as far as possible & check the wire colours either side of the plug. This is what I did when I rationalised the engine bay wiring in my car fitting new connecting plugs along the way. Car electrics is not rocket science especially on a Caterham. Just work out what each wire does (the colour really tells you this) & plot it's path from origin to termination. Use a meter to confirm you've got continuity. Pinouts for Mems etc: click on techy things, k series ecu pinout.here Just noticed halfway down this page: Instruments plug 1400 (1995) from engine harness to chassis harness. Edited by - Mick Day on 3 May 2007 12:12:31

Narrow track wishbones did not use the spacer.

My crotch straps are attached to the rear seat mountings.