Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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I used the screwdriver trick on the right side of the engine all by myself. Held in place with a trusty G clamp. Works for the undoing & the doing up.
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Revilla: Your Low-Flying article was excellent & included ALL the necessary information & warnings required. Superlight91: AFAIK these MFRU's are in short supply. Caterham are out of stock. Ebay could be your friend? As mine was 19 years old I decided to remove it completely & replace with individual relays. Procrastination stopped me doing this 11 years ago as once the starter relay was bypassed everything else worked. It was only when I was getting intermittent fuel problems that I decided to junk the MFRU (I don't have a lambda sensor). At some point in the future I'd like to completely replace the engine loom, fuse, relay box. However whilst it still works.....................
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Have a look here for the earlier MRFU wiring. Works on my 1994 vintage car AFAIAA in the earlier wiring the injectors & the lambda sensor are powered by the main & OS relays respectively. Not having had K series starting problems for 11 years I've just had to replace my starter motor. Now starts hot & cold. As Charlie says it's not one solution all the time but consideration must be given to the whole system. And if you do employ the starter relay mod remember that the new relay may exhibit arcing & corroded contacts after a while. replace mine every spring.
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Had similar symptoms to yours. Checked with a meter & apparently still within spec. New TPS fitted & no more misfire/hesitation. Just have to work out my other intermittent starting problems now! Got mine from local motor factor. On box it says FuelParts TP009. www.fpuk.co.uk
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I had a misbehaving K series for 3 or so years. Misfire symptoms would come & go along with poor starting, TPS passed all tests. Recommissioning after the winter & misfire back with a vengeance. New TPS cured all symptoms.
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Have a good one Angus!
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Sorry to hear about the car but glad you're OK. One rear panel, one side panel, rear wing & nosecone. I assume TSK will re-paint the whole car as trying to match 20 year old patena will be difficult. Wouldn't take much to strip it down for a proper re-build & most of it paid for by the other party.
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For a road car a brake balance adjuster is allowed so long as it can't be adjusted whilst driving.............so put it under the bonnet.
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Rather than taking the top cover off have you thought of draining through the drain plug then refilling with a long tube & funnel from the engine compartment? Doesn't take too long especially if you warm the oil 1st.
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TADTS, as mine used to for some time until.............. ..........use more aggressive pads on the front (like wot the tester advised). Hawk pads were a favourite a while back...... ...........brake balance adjuster....... ...........4 pot caliper up front.......... My set-up is 4 pot front caliper & standard rear with Pagid brake pads: RS15 front & RS14 rear.
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Like wot I said then....................
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Depending on what you have found, & if it is designed to have current flowing all the time, then it might be better to use a power resistor on a good heatsink. Just need to determine resistance & wattage. Edited by - Mick Day on 27 May 2013 15:44:25
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Halfords oil filter: HOF213. MG/Rover LPW 100180 Mahle OC 237/1
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Quoting Harolddude: Hi Nick, looked at it last summer. Thought it was a lot of money for a well used example. Thanks any way. AndyAnd it's still for sale............. Well-used example? 14300 recorded miles in 13 years?
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Strange? I went from a 0% to 22% & much prefer the 22% rack.
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Have a chat with a local aluminium fabricator, especially one who works in motorsport. Brise in Dartford not only doe auto elictrics they also do anything in aluminium. Come to think of it someone has to do this for Caterham???? Brise Then it's off to Think for hoses etc. This guy might help & can't be that far away from you: Andy Wiltshire
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I've put various things in the dishwasher to clean including the bell-housing. However don't use dishwasher powder/tablet/gel as this is what will cause surface discolouration. Use automatic washing powder/tablet/gel.
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My gold spare one is for sale Dave. I just looked it out & it says Caterham down the full length. Could easily be re-painted any colour you like.
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My spare one says (I think) Caterham & is painted gold.
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Why don't you paint it Dave? I did mine with gold smooth Hammerite.
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Stick a camera up under the dash & take a pic. You'll then be able to see how the assembly goes together. Be warned though that sometimes the wires are too short so it's impossible to get the gauge completely out.
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I told you not to polish it!
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Might be useful? Sparkbright No connection & so far haven't bought anything from them.
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Try these people: Steve Harris, Autoclave Services & Repairs Ltd. I used to use Steve for service/maintenance before retiring. He often has low usage autoclaves (Little Sister etc) retired from health authority/ PCT clinics. However be warned your tattooist will need to comply with all the H & S regs that every other health care provider has to abide by. Autoclaves are also inherently unreliable (mixing water & electrics always is) so a maintenance contract is a sensible option.
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Don't use dishwasher solution/powder/tablets with aluminium. Use automatic clothes washing solution/powder/tablets instead.
