Mick Day

Nifty The charcoal canister mount is only pop riveted on ( on my 1994 car). Easy to remove when the engine is out. Not imposible with the engine in using a right angle drill. Did that a few years ago with a sheet of aluminium, much lighter. The MFU is then fastened to the underneath of this keeping it of the scuttle & out of any potential water. Edited by - Mick Day on 4 Aug 2007 10:41:51

I'll give you £10 for it. Seriously most people want a 1.8/1.9 now so there's only some value in the block on it's own. Has the web for the starter motor been ground off? OK I'll give you £15 then!

Let's be fair, most last quite a long time. If it's failed after 13 years it's not bad. However doesn't help the non-starting problem. As mentioned 2 circuits bypassed under the dash: coil & starter. However the wiring for the 3rd interupt to the fuel pump is usually spliced in the tunnel; it was on my 1994 car. If you can take the scuttle off it makes it so much easier.

Check the joints on the ARB drop links; they do wear.

I have 205/60/13 on 6" rims on the rear of my car with no problems, as do many others. The only changes I've made is to move the anti-roll bar bottom mounts to the inside rather than the outside of the radius arm mounts (overhead AR bar). Medium compound works for me for both track & road. However when I next need tyres I'll probably check out the Toyo R888.

Self-centering is more to do with caster setting than how "loose" the rack is.

The 6 speed has a drain plug as well as a filler plug.

Mine was delivered with a 1/8 nptf thread but that was what I asked for. And it's on the top of the housing as well. From memory I can't remember one on the bottom but again I didn't ask for one there.

Get it from Caterham, just ask for the R500 flywheel. Or, if you're lucky, you may be able to pick one up 2nd hand.

Try Arch Motors; make just about everything else in the chassis. here

Instead of a copper crush washer use a bonded seal which is reusable.

Glad to be of help. If you're going to watch the GP at Toyota we can meet up on Sunday.

Brucey FWIW. If I was going back to a wet sump I'd remove the foam, fit a Helier baffle & drill the sump gasket to allow maximum drain back to the pick-up. However as you say you're nearly there & it'll probably not stop raining.....................

The old "1.4" alternator was a problem on my car & I had to modify the cover. in the end I changed the alternator to the later smaller one. Another alternative is an alternator from Brise which is smaller still.

Horsham, send me a Blatmail & we can arrange. Mick

You won't be able to do it with the seats in the car so take them out. 2 bolts fore & aft for each runner. The seats may be handed so don't get them mixed up. 45 ft/lbs................ If you don't have a torque wrench then do them up tight but not too tight.

Bob I have one off my 1994 car in aluminium & crackle finish that I no longer use. You are welcome to it FOC if you come & collect. Mick

Aspect ratio? here Let's assume 205/60/13. 5th – 0.86 with 3.92 LSD Gear Mph per 1000 RPM Mph @7700 RPM Mph @8000 RPM -------------------------------------------------------- 1 5.13 39 41 2 9.51 73 76 3 13.67 105 109 4 17.22 133 138 5 20.02 154 160 Mph RPM (in Gears) ------------------------------------------------- 1 2 3 4 5 ------------------------------------------------- 5 976 526 366 290 250 10 1951 1051 732 581 499 15 2927 1577 1098 871 749 20 3902 2102 1463 1161 999 25 4878 2628 1829 1452 1249 30 5854 3153 2195 1742 1498 35 6829 3679 2561 2033 1748 40 7805 4204 2927 2323 1998 45 4730 3293 2613 2247 50 5256 3659 2904 2497 55 5781 4024 3194 2747 60 6307 4390 3484 2997 65 6832 4756 3775 3246 70 7358 5122 4065 3496 75 7883 5488 4355 3746 80 5854 4646 3995 85 6219 4936 4245 90 6585 5226 4495 95 6951 5517 4744 100 7317 5807 4994 105 7683 6098 5244 110 6388 5494 115 6678 5743 120 6969 5993 125 7259 6243 130 7549 6492 135 7840 6742 140 6992 145 7242 150 7491 155 7741 160 7991 Gear Change RPM drop (change @7700) RPM drop (change @8000) ------------------------------------------------------------- 1 -> 2 -3552 (to 4148) -3690 (to 4310) 2 -> 3 -2340 (to 5360) -2431 (to 5569) 3 -> 4 -1589 (to 6111) -1651 (to 6349) 4 -> 5 -1078 (to 6622) -1120 (to 6880) Edited by - Mick Day on 30 Jun 2007 19:14:10

Why??? I use a cranked 1/2" spanner to access the nuts & the whole thing comes apart in seconds.

Use gearbox oil. Edited by - Mick Day on 30 Jun 2007 17:51:50

2 lateral bolts & nuts (1/2 inch AF spanner) holds gearbox mount to chassis. Big bolt in middle holds gearbox to mount. Undo whichever takes your fancy.

Chris You have more chance of winning the lottery than no oil pressure. It's either an electrical connector that's fallen off or a duff sensor/gauge. More likely to be the former. Mick

I had my bottom joints replaced by a well known 7 Specialist. At the MOT 12 months later I had this problem & got an advisory. Think the problem is not the joint as such but the joint moving in the housing. Maybe it wasn't fitted with the required bearing fit? Solved by moving to widetrack, which come with pre-fitted joints

Mulling over the problem of blocking the heater return to the "old" thermostat housing I wonder if this is really necessary: why not keep the heater return plumbed into the original position? Think about it: if the heater water return is taken to the bypass at the new housing then it arrives at the old housing only milliseconds later than if the return goes to the old housing. Just a thought: any comments?

On my 1994 model the VDO sender was fitted with the float to the right hand side of the car.