Nifty
The charcoal canister mount is only pop riveted on ( on my 1994 car). Easy to remove when the engine is out. Not imposible with the engine in using a right angle drill. Did that a few years ago with a sheet of aluminium, much lighter. The MFU is then fastened to the underneath of this keeping it of the scuttle & out of any potential water.
Edited by - Mick Day on 4 Aug 2007 10:41:51
I'll give you £10 for it.
Seriously most people want a 1.8/1.9 now so there's only some value in the block on it's own. Has the web for the starter motor been ground off?
OK I'll give you £15 then!
Let's be fair, most last quite a long time. If it's failed after 13 years it's not bad. However doesn't help the non-starting problem. As mentioned 2 circuits bypassed under the dash: coil & starter. However the wiring for the 3rd interupt to the fuel pump is usually spliced in the tunnel; it was on my 1994 car. If you can take the scuttle off it makes it so much easier.
I have 205/60/13 on 6" rims on the rear of my car with no problems, as do many others. The only changes I've made is to move the anti-roll bar bottom mounts to the inside rather than the outside of the radius arm mounts (overhead AR bar). Medium compound works for me for both track & road. However when I next need tyres I'll probably check out the Toyo R888.
Mine was delivered with a 1/8 nptf thread but that was what I asked for. And it's on the top of the housing as well. From memory I can't remember one on the bottom but again I didn't ask for one there.
Brucey
FWIW. If I was going back to a wet sump I'd remove the foam, fit a Helier baffle & drill the sump gasket to allow maximum drain back to the pick-up. However as you say you're nearly there & it'll probably not stop raining.....................
The old "1.4" alternator was a problem on my car & I had to modify the cover. in the end I changed the alternator to the later smaller one. Another alternative is an alternator from Brise which is smaller still.
You won't be able to do it with the seats in the car so take them out. 2 bolts fore & aft for each runner.
The seats may be handed so don't get them mixed up.
45 ft/lbs................ If you don't have a torque wrench then do them up tight but not too tight.
2 lateral bolts & nuts (1/2 inch AF spanner) holds gearbox mount to chassis. Big bolt in middle holds gearbox to mount. Undo whichever takes your fancy.
Chris
You have more chance of winning the lottery than no oil pressure. It's either an electrical connector that's fallen off or a duff sensor/gauge. More likely to be the former.
Mick
I had my bottom joints replaced by a well known 7 Specialist. At the MOT 12 months later I had this problem & got an advisory.
Think the problem is not the joint as such but the joint moving in the housing. Maybe it wasn't fitted with the required bearing fit?
Solved by moving to widetrack, which come with pre-fitted joints
Mulling over the problem of blocking the heater return to the "old" thermostat housing I wonder if this is really necessary: why not keep the heater return plumbed into the original position? Think about it: if the heater water return is taken to the bypass at the new housing then it arrives at the old housing only milliseconds later than if the return goes to the old housing. Just a thought: any comments?