Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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So if you can't raise the ride height to compensate buy 185-70-13 tyres as they will give the same ride height/speedo read-out as 185-60-14. It's simple really
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Whilst doing a bit of surfing came across this US LED supplier, might be useful.
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You don't need a syringe just use a funnel.
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Ian I think you'll struggle to find anybody who'll put any value on the Pilot's. They're hard as rock & last for years & years & years & years & years & years, & most importantly have no grip! Have a look in For Sale & see how much people want for 14" wheels. Maybe £30 a wheel? Mick
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To keep the wheel/tyre diameter the same I'd go for 185-70-13 all round. Yoko 21's from Geroge Polley. At under £50 a pop, for each corner, they're more than enough for a Roadsport. You only need consider 205 profile rear tyres for anything over 190 BHP.
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Did mine by getting someone to stand on the upper wishbone. However the non-nyloc is probably best but I didn't have any to hand.
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All mine for a 1994 K series were 1/8 NPTF. FPS: fit in line in the fuel hose just before it enters the fuel rail.
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Measurements here any use?
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Angus Have a chat with Gary May here. Maybe Paul Gibb would like to comment? HNY. Mick
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Take the scuttle off &/or use one of these or similar: here
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Angus: I put a bit of plywood between the bush & the sump. Peter: at least all my clients survive! 😬
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Angus The frame bolts to the back of the engine, bottom 2 bellhousing attachments. The front of the sump rests on a rather nobbly bush. Mick
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Caterham Cars are very good at supplying just what you need along with any of their distributors. However from memery they're 4mm black aluminium.
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The Rubber Nut is a flanged neoprene bush with a captive brass nut and is designed to provide a shock and vibration resistant fixing for engineering structures. Rubber Nuts are suitable for many types of application, from thin gauge metals to plastic components up to 30mm thick. In effect the captive brass nut scrunches up the rubber to hold the 2 parts together.
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Or use these: here
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Not a great deal remains in the Apollo tank once the filter is removed. Maybe 1/2 litre? What I used to do was refill with 6 litres, run the engine & keep checking the level with the engine running. If you have difficulty in seeing the level dip within 10 seconds of switching off.
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Use an adapted allen key & put a bit of copper pipe over the end of the key to give more leverage. Don't do it up too tight.
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Billy This may help you in determining power in & power out to the MRFU relays here. Mick
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Just to add a little more fun into the equation, when I replaced my N/S mount I found the holes didn't line up exactly to the holes in the block so the mount needed a little fettling with a Dremmel.
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The same clown that advised you to use a cut-down 10mm Allen key to access & remove the plug. I put a piece of copper tube over the end to undo it. Don't do it up too tight. Tip : Get a long piece of transparant tube & fill via a funnel from the engine compartment.
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Mine used to leak & I must have replaced 3 or 4 seals over the years. Pesky little bu$$ers to get back in. I got so fed up with it I removed the speedo mechanism & blanked it off with a kit one can get from Ford ( or from R & R). Costs about a fiver & yes it can be done in situ but one has to drill a suitable hole in the tunnel for access. Replaced the speedo with an electrical one from VDO driven off the front wheel. This of course matches the other VDO instruments if one has the old style instruments. Merlin Motorsport here are very helpful.
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Have a chat with James Whiting
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Your other option of course is a set of Brooklands. I've had these on my car since 1998 & wouldn't change. I've been in other cars with the various fixed plastic arrangements & personally prefer the glass Brooklands. The angle of attack can be easily changed & helps in deflecting wind & rain (plus the occasional big insect as well). It all appears to flow over one's head. It has been postulated that because there is a small gap at the base of the screen this allows for a more laminar airflow.
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It's much easier to torque up the front suspension without the engine in situ, just get a suitable 100kg body to stand in the engine compartment.
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On a Vx it's relatively easy as the engine is upright. Last one I saw being removed took 20 minutes. On a K the engine is canted over to the exhaust side & the exhaust headers get in the way. Plus the plumbing for the front mounted Apollo or dry sump tank means it's easier to remove the headers 1st.
