Mick Day

Roger: it's easier with 2 people, but.............................when you're on your own use a G clamp to hold the screwdriver in place. From memory it can be clamped to the sump/crankcase flange.

As you have found out there are some variations in the use of the 4 relays within the MFRU. If you find an ECU pinout diagram & follow the wiring into the MRFU (& out again) you can check what the various relays do (use a multimeter to confirm continuiity). My car is a 1994, originally with the old 1.4 K series. 4 relays were used controlling lambda sensor heater, fuel pump, starter & injectors (IACV & charcoal cannister). The lambda sensor, IACV & charcoal cannister were removed a while back, & I installed a separate relay for the starter for obvious reasons. However when I was getting a misfire, & odd fuelling problems, I got rid of the MFRU in favour of standard relays to just control power to the fuel pump & injectors.

This header tank also works well with a K series, especially with a dry sump oil tank in front of the engine.

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As I've had this problem myself, a couple of times, this is how I cured it (assuming all wiring connections are in good condition): NEW STARTER............ Starters do deteriorate over time & have a hard life in a Caterham. Usually the internal resistance increases &/or mechanical internals deteriorate & the battery has a hard time (even when in good condition) turning the engine. For me a starter lasts about 6 or 7 years.

Pete I used chicken wire, available from any local DIY/hardwire shop. Cut it to size then paint it matt black with a Hammerite rattle can. Once dry use small wire ties to attach to the rear of the grill. PS: I see Yorkshire, South & Derbyshire, North meet at the Ladybower Inn. Maybe we should time another sh1t tour to coincide & also visit the cafe again?

Try Toat Hill Garage: 01403 790203

My daughter had some front suspension work carried out to her car a while back. The cause of the indifferent steering was one fastener loose plus a nut missing off another! Go to the obvious 1st & check all fasteners are tight & in place.

Engine is reluctant to idle &/or idle speed is lower than usual.

Yes that's the one. And you're right, the additional web helps prevent any fracture.

Exhaust manifold gasket can usually be re-used. Clutch plate is a Ford based item but as CC only supply their own uprated AP item it's best to buy from them. Remove starter but I always managed to remove engine with alternator & Apollo in situ. Don't forget to remove engine diagonals (if removable). Leave clutch cable attached as a gentle press on the clutch pedal often helps separate engine/bell housing once all fixings are removed.

Early 6-speed gearboxes (mines from 1996) did not have the O ring. So I use the gasket, plus silicone around the "little shaft.

Why not give these people a ring. Have used them for some 7 bits & a Subaru. Excellent result. Based in W Sussex 12 miles south of Horsham. Washington Coach Works

If you've hd JW work on your car before, & you don't won't to DIY, then you can't get much better than James (& Ruth). However if you can borrow a friend with an engine crane, then it's quite easy to DIY. It ain't rocket you know what. 12 years ago I had a gearbox failure. Around came a friend with an engine crane. 2 years later I took the engine out myself single handed.

Just a thought but have you fitted an electric fuel pump? Mech. pump ok for daily drivers but if only used occasionally then it takes a lot of starter use to get fuel into the float chambers for the engine to run.

Why not have a chat with this guy who can supply EFI kits. John Maher John is a very nice guy (he built an engine/gearbox for me some 10 years ago) & can supply a complete kit (DTA based) with good-to-start mapping included. Incidentally he is the former drummer with the Buzzcocks! here Edited by - Mick Day on 18 Mar 2014 10:26:31

Quoting Peter Mears: Well I do know the left hand signal as well But does anyone else??? She may think you're waving at her! YHM.

What did you do for left turns? By-the-way YHM!

My starter was reconditioned in 2006 & worked perfectly until last summer. Similar symptoms & would even start the engine with the help of a big, big jump start battery. Took the starter off & fitted my spare. Now starts 1st time. So if the battery is OK & you're sure the wiring is in good order............... Good luck.

My daughter is looking for a recent 5 door manual Yaris in good condition with service history. If any of you guys are thinking of selling /part ex'ing & would like to do a private deal then let me know via blatmail.

Having had a small mishap with a rock damaging the front bumper of the tintop I decided to use a local bodyshop to me. Washington Coach Works, West Sussex Not only did they do a fantastic job but they also have a considerable number of high end cars in for repair. So when the 7 collected a few scratches & dents, to a wing & bonnet, I got them to repair it for me. They've done fantastic job again! Excellent paint match! No connection other than as a satisfied customer.

Quoting Blue7: It is the nature of "the beast" It doesn't like town driving, doesn't like slow and in particular it doesn't like bumpy roads at slow speeds, which can cause exponential kangarooing Tuning to 280 bhp has probably exacerbated the problem but you soon learn how to cope with it. Great fun though 😬 Er........... NO! Just because the max BHP is 280 doesn't mean it should kangaroo & be undriveable at low speed. Ever seen a 911 doing this? Have a chat with the 2 Steve's & get it mapped properly.

You are correct on the difference between a catch tank & Apollo (oil/air separator) tank. When I had a wet sump K the oil temperature would drop 10 or so degrees when the oil level was just out of reach of the crank. I always felt more comfortable with this as I believed this was better than aerated oil. Even with the Apollo I always filled to this level. My guess is that oil from the top of the engine is being ingested via the breather to the inlet manifold. Maybe worse on left handers? Solution: route this breather to a catch tank & block the tapping into the inlet manifold. Secondly fit an Apollo, modify the sump gasket & ditch the sump foam. Fitting the Apollo tank is not difficult but correctly tightening some connections can be a tad challenging. If Caterham can no longer supply then I'm sure there must be other alloy fabricators who can make you one. Maybe try Brise, or go for a dry sump installation from Pace? Or better still fit a dry sump. I believe Pace can probably supply.

What were your oil temperatures before & after the oil level change? Do you have an Apollo tank/dry sump?

Quoting Nigel Mercer: Can I ask, as I can't find this in the archives, What is the foam there for - what is it meant to achieve? That's a difficult question & so far nobody has given a definitive answer. I suppose the best one though is to prevent surge. I've had my K series from new in 1994 & I never changed the foam.............. However between then & 2004 I left major servicing to someone else but never saw "foam" on the invoice. In 2004 Gary May serviced the car & I noticed foam & ali baffle on the invoice (the baffle had started to crack). A year later I put in a Hellier baffle, removed the foam & modified the gasket. However my foam was in the sump with a neat cut-out for the oil pick-up. Now I've no idea whether this was Gary's way of doing it or my car had that arrangement all along. However to my mind that is a better way of doing it rather than sandwiching it between the baffle & oil rail. I now have a dry sump.