Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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JW's Alcons will work out cheaper overall as they still use the standard disc at £22.91 a pop wheras the ventilated front disc costs £141.00! I don't think ventilated front discs are required on an open wheeled light car even on the track. Oh & yes I'm a little biased as I do have the Alcon calipers (now with Pagid RS15 pads). -
likely reasons for windscreen wash failing to squirt?? NOW SORTED
Mick Day replied to mattjamesw's topic in TechTalk
All 7's are built like that from day 1: all you need do is take the scuttle off; it takes me 15 minutes to take mine off then it's easy access to everything behind the dash. Edited by - Mick Day on 9 Oct 2008 20:52:30 -
The 4 point fitting was common in the mid 90's, my 1994 nosecone is fitted that way. However it's perfectly stable with just the 2 upper dzus fasteners engaged. True one can grasp the bottom & move the nosecone up but in use all the forces push it down.
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Guages. Anyone know how I can 'recalibrate' one ?
Mick Day replied to CHRIS CLARK's topic in TechTalk
Would putting a resistor in parallel work for an oil pressure gauge? Again it's a Caerbont gauge/sender in another car which wildly under-reads when measured against a Mocal mechanical. -
Although the 7 tank doesn't hold much 5 litres leaves a lot of space for vapour. My jerry cans are empty, well I can't get any more fluid out of them. However whenever I open the top plenty of vapour "pours" out. That's why an empty petrol tank is more dangerous than a full one.
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John If you've just removed the canister then you'll be left with a tube in the engine compartment. This goes down the tunnel where it will connect via a valve to the fuel tank. This is the tank breather. So all you need do is pop the end of the tube somewhere convenient. I lengthened it & put it into the oil catch tank. Of course by all means do the mod if you wish, it is neater. I didn't do the mod until I rebuilt the car. Mick
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Anyone got a rubber?.......................
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Jenvey?
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My engine ingested a small screw a few months ago & the head had to come off for diagnosis/repair. With the help of a very knowledgeable friend he guided me through the process. I did the spannering. It's not difficult but it really helps to have a mentor. By all means send the head for crack testing & I would also add porosity testing. However a good machine shop/specialist in refurbing cylinder heads should be able to source all this for you. This thread gives the procedure for adjusting liner heights. here
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Did someone ask for a crown?
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bin the Zetec & fit a Duratec. 😬 Or use it as a boat anchor!
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Gosh Peter that's a novel idea!
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......................and the snorkel will be in the wrong position on a K unless one dispenses with the pedals!
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Diff needs an EP90 oil.
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HERE!
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Fantastic news.
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Darren Any excuse to have a fiddle so count me in. Mick
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Geoff this is one of many threads on the subject but possibly provides most options leading to a cure: here Often the starter is OK & it's just a problem with the wiring to the starter. Edited by - Mick Day on 26 Sep 2008 20:55:33
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I've used this replacement filter head as well as it's a neat way of getting the oil back into the engine. Part number FH6, but just to be sure tell them it's for a Rover K series.
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If the gauge works in a linear fashion don't bother changing the sender. Your new sender may have the same "fault". The temperature gauges/senders can read 5 to 10 deg C out.
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A few things? The rubber skin of the water bypass hose will insulate readings maybe as much as 10 deg C. To get a more accurate reading of water temperature do the reading directly where the top hose goes into the rad. Measure on the metal. So with your readings you're probably in the ballpark. To check whether your car has a themostat put your hand on the top of the rad & start the car from cold. Does this stay cold whilst the bypass hose gets hot? If so you have a thermostat. If it gets hot at the same time as the bypass hose then you don't. Most of us have 82 deg C thermostats & yes the fan thermo switch is about 87-92 deg C, however they are not that precise. A 5 to 10 deg inaccuracy in the temp gauge doesn't surprise me.
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I'll vote for option 2, as that's the way I did mine. Cut the machine screws to length & countersink from underneath. Use nylocs on top. I need to take mine off & put some adhesive sealing strip underneath as the scuttle/stanchion interface vibrates at about 1800 to 2000 rpm. Who needs a rev counter! Option 3 means you have to take the scuttle off if you want to take the aeros off. Or you play Mr Contortionist under the dash with a spanner! Option 1 may be OK; make sure you use some loctite & be precise when tapping the thread. However with my option 2 I have to tighten up the screws/nylocs every season as they do get a little loose. And yes I too got sent the wrong stanchion so do check.
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Most likely a shift light. However if you let us know what pin the wire is connected to on the ECU.......... This may help you locate the wire & it's purpose. HERE.
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I live in Horsham as well. The two Steves are the people to go to, wouldn't go anywhere else for injection or carbs.
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Absolutely. Why hide the coloured bulb behind a bit of featureless white plastic? Coloured lenses have more style.
