Mick Day
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Everything posted by Mick Day
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Oh & the wire I use for the starter solenoid is 28/0.30mm, 2mm2, 17.5amp; again available from VWP.
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Matt You dont say whether you have totally bypassed the MFRU relay? If you haven't you may like to consider doing this as well. Secondly try taking the lead that goes to the starter solenoid off your new relay & touching it to the positive of the battery; you may need a little extension & make sure the car is in neutral. If the starter fires up then that proves the lead/starter is OK. Your new relay may be at fault so good idea to replace it on a regular basis. Also check your ignition switch as this can wear as well. I treat the starter circuit as a consumable & replace the wiring/relay on a 3 year basis. And finally I wrap all the wiring that gets close to the exhaust (alternator, battery, starter etc) in this: here
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When this has happened to me I managed to drill/tap the frame & used an appropriate metric machine screw to hold the popper base in situ. Alternatively use a rubber rawlnut with a machine screw.
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Halfords do a 10/40; that's what I used for my K series. Just make sure you warm it up 1st.
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Try Gary's suggestion 1st. Did the wiper motor & washer motor work before you removed the bits? If the wipers still don't work you need to get back to basics. Is there 12 volts present at the washer motor? Check the earth? Do the same for the wiper motor as well. Edited by - Mick Day on 12 Jul 2009 21:40:49 -
Or why not try a Ford Dealer? Ford Dealer Locator Tim Norton Motor Services - Oakham Long Row Oakham Leicestershire LE15 6LN Phone 01572 755527 Fax 01572 755607
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And you're only 39 miles from Caterham Midlands
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I have the box my new clutch release bearing came in, as supplied by CC: SKF bearing made in France. It says Ford & Talbot on the box. Part number VKC 2144. I also have the old bearing (only changed as engine out) & that has SKF VKC 2144 on it. So yes AFAICT it is a Ford part & probably from a Sierra. You should be able to get one from any good motor factors.
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Something like this: here. Its function is to seal in the absence of oxygen. Any excess remains fluid & is harmlessly carried away by the oil, so it won't set & block oil-ways as silicone might. So clean the surfaces as much as possible & use as little as possible. Although I'm not familiar with the Caterham dry sump system it sounds as though you'll need to drain the oil before attempting to seal the plate.
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Myles I think your gauge must be a later version; I bought mine at the tail end of 2005. I've emailed you my instructions but maybe you ought to check with SPA to find out exactly how YOUR gauge is calibrated. My sensor only has 1 connection to the gauge; the other is an earth connected to the chassis. The other thing to bear in mind is that the VDO sensor (fitted up to 1996?) is different to the Caterham branded gauges (fitted post 1996?). The resistance of the sensor windings varies: empty position gives high resistance on one & high on the other: can't remember which way round but easy to do with a meter. When I ordered mine I had to specify.
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Myles You don't need to drain the tank. Take the sender out & make up some extensions so you can "work" the sender out of the tank. So with the sender in the lowest (empty) position measure the voltage in mv. Do the same for the full position. You will now have all the readings you need to program your unit. As mine was a dry build I did it by filling the tank. Took at least 5 litres before it registered, & when indicating full there is still 5 litres to go before being properly full. I did mine with the engine off. With the engine on my full tank now reads 110%! The difference in 12v battery to 14v alternator makes a difference.
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Good advice Myles, but if you cut the white/red wire going into the MFRU, & use this, then you're on the right track. 🙅🏻♂️ Before cutting check that this wire does indeed terminate at your starter switch button. Use a meter & check continuity. Once this has been confirmed it can then be connected to a separate relay as Myles suggests. Good idea to use a relay with an integral 30amp fuse. Can be purchased from Vehicle Wiring Products.........that reminds me I must buy a spare.
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Ouch!! Where abouts is Mike Riley (Metal Micky) based?
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VD = voltage drop. The thicker the wire the less the voltage drop. You may only need to crimp 3 terminals at present but you'll soon find more as the years go by. If you buy the proper ratchet crimper it'll do a lifetime's service & possibly prevent a breakdown. I'd echo Norm's dislike for bullet connectors as well. Edited by - Mick Day on 30 Jun 2009 12:30:15
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Nifty When I rebuilt my car 3 years ago I removed the wiper mechanism & yes you will need to remove the scuttle. The reason why is it's so, so, so, so, much more simple when you can eyeball it plus you'll find the wiring loom is supported by the wiper cable. When I refitted the scuttle I didn't use any sealant as that makes it easier to remove in the future. Hope this helps.
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Steering column??
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Angus I've had an Odyssey 545 battery since June 2005 & it's still functioning fine with my 1.9 K. I do use a conditioner & have never let it go flat. It's much lighter & fits on it's side in a standard CC S/S battery tray. Bought from www.powervamp.com/.
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Wipac may be standard fitment now but back in 1994 my car was supplied with the Cibie units. Not too sure whether CC still stock them but I bought a replacement a few years ago. Ask Darren? I agree with Graham & much prefer them over other units.
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Although wrapping the starter will protect it from some of the radiant heat from the headers it will do nothing for the heat-soak from the block. Indeed wrapping the starter may act like a tea cosy & stop the heat escaping. However my starter is wrapped- more from habit than anything else. When I started to get starter problems, some 10 years ago, I went through all the various fixes. I worked out that a short path for the battery/solenoid activation wiring, plus a relay, is paramount. Secondly, as Norman has said, check the resistance of all the wiring to the starter & alternator. I have now simplified my wiring & have a spare alternator/starter loom waiting to be fitted as & when.
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But is it ever a total?? If the worst comes to the worst then it's a new chassis, nice new shiny panels & a new paint scheme of your choice. If you were to sell & upgrade there would be a cost to change. Just look on the ultimate "off" as the opportunity for a new car in the shape of a rebuilt old car.
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Or do as I do & blank off the bit that illuminates the nearside (the bit that will dazzle in France) with some insulation tape.
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Certainly TSK & Arch will liaise & sort out the transport bit; they did for me at my rebuild. On the subject of TD insurance: the excess is usually quite high & there is a premium to pay. If you do quite a number of events over say 5 years, & are unfortunate to need a long front say every 5 years, then it will probably be cheaper to self insure. Let's face it this is a DIY car & most owners don't mind getting their hands dirty, & as labour is the majority of the cost, that saves quite a bit. Just look on this as part of the learning curve & plan what upgrades to fit whilst it's apart.
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http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=105354 Magneton starter
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As Mav says: Ignore what the book says, fill it with 7litres then dip; fill to top mark of dipstick. Check once hot & dip within 30 seconds of switching off engine.
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Further browsing shows part number TOPIC/01C (Type H. Oil take offs for use with remote Filters) is what you want. Best to describe your problem to them & let them advise.
