Mick Day

Why not ring Dave Andrews/Dave Walker & ask their advice? AFAIK using higher octane will enable greater spark advance. However beware if you use 98 octane (or something higher) as you will have to use this all the time or risk detonation.

If you don't have the engine/gearbox in situ then it's a lot easier to torque up front suspension. However get someone of the same weight (circa 120kg's) to stand on the front chassis tubes whilst you do it.

If it's any consolation mine used to drop to 2 bar on LH bends. That was with no foam, Apollo, & Hellier baffle. It did the same with foam & no baffle as well & ran like that from 2001 to 2006. When the engine was stripped (up-grade, no failure) there was a small pit (less that 1mm) on one of the big-end shells. OP was 3.5 bar when hot & above 2000 rpm. However if it's only started to do that then I would investigate.

Rob have you checked out here & here?

er.... yes...

OK can't leave you dangling like that: You need a cut down 10mm allen key to get the level plug out of the gear box. The filler/level plug is on the RHS of my 6 speed box & I assume it's in the same position for the 4 & 5 speed. The diff level plug/filler is on the back of the diff. You'll find it easiest if you jack the back of the car up & remove the boot floor. The de-dion tube often gets in the way so you either need to put axle stands under the tube (or the chassis???) so that the tube drops out of the way, then you can get at the plug. It's pretty obvious what you need to do with the car in front of you!

Yes! 😬

The 2 Steve's most definitely. As mentioned will do any ECU they can access.

No reason why not but the hose would have to go through the alternator belt. You would also need a blanking adapter for the sandwich plate outlet.

So has anyone made up an extension lead for their ECU?

It doesn't matter whether there is oil, water, air, or even hydrogen in the oil line. The gauge is set to measure pressure so will measue the pressure of whatever squashes up against the pressure diagphram inside. So to recap it doesn't matter whether it's gas or liquid in there; bleeding will at best be messy & worst will squirt oil everywhere.

Many of us have done this for the 1st time & it does appear daunting. You will need something to lift the engine out with. The best thing to use is an engine crane & they usually come with an owner who has done it before! I did it for the 1st time to get a broken gearbox out with a 3 week deadline to Le-Sept. Friend supplied crane & previous knowledge; I supplied tea & biscuits & got in the way. The next time I did it on my own! Yes with experience it is that easy. There is plenty of DIY help in the archives, just do a search.

For the upper fitting use the big jubilee clip around the tank but use a smaller clip at right angles to hold it in place to the adjacent chassis rail. Use an old piece of rad hose to protect the powder coating. Remember there is a small piece of engine block to file away as this can rub the oil hoses. At oil change time it's not necessary to drain the tank as most will flow out when you remove the oil tank. Assuming you change your oil religiously the little bit that remains is insignificant compared to the volume (7 litres?) that is changed.

Or raise the ride height when you change assuming you have adjustable dampers.

Sorry to hijack but did it pass at 1.6mm? Personally I'd fit the same brand/compound as the front. However it all depends on what you want to do with car. Wheel sizes? Options include 185/70/13 Yoko A021's. AO48 185/60/13 or 14" diam Toyo R888 185/60/13 or 14" diam

It does depend on rear wheel size as well. I have similar with 205/60/13 tyres & a 3.92 diff. However if I was going to use the car more on the road then maybe a 3.62 ratio would be better.

But there will still be a voltage drop with long thin cable so the thicker the better.

Le-Sept 2003 showed how easy it is to remove a Vx engine: in the hotel car-park! 2 scaffold poles, some rope & willing volunteers to lift it out. Faulty gearbox replaced (support crew had a spare) & engine back in. It was so easy they decided to do it again the following day to replace the clutch!

The MFU controls, via 4 seperate relays: the starter; lambda sensor circuit; fuel pump; injectors, charcoal cannister & IACV. If it is the MFU then a new one is unlikely to fail that quickly. I would be very suspicious of the cut-out switch. How old is it? If older than 3 years I'd be inclined to replace it in total. Oh & that old favourite engine earths.

I think you need to look very carefully at how this has been wired. One side of the ignition light is connected to the small terminal on the alternator. The other side is connected from a fused supply via the ignition switch. So with the ignition switch off the light should be off. The FIA switch disconnects the battery (plus it also stops the alternator destroying itself if the switch is switched off when the engine is running). 1st try & replicate the problem again. 2. If it is still playing up, check the ignition light with a multimeter on both terminals (with ignition switch/FIA switch off). What you are trying to determine is which terminal is 12v +ve. It should be the terminal connected to the ignition switch. If correct then the fault lies with either a worn ignition switch/FIA switch. If it is the other terminal then there could be a wiring error at the alternator. However my money would be on a fault with the FIA switch 1st & the ignition switch 2nd. The red starter button is wired correctly? 3. Another check: can the headlights be switched on with the FIA switch off/removed?

Before you get carried away with this do remember the poor guy who had his removeable steering wheel stolen at Le Mans................they kindly left the car just wanted a souvenir!

Rollover bar - non FIA for S3 de-dion chassis, complete with boot cover: £30 Removed from my 1994 chassis & stored in the loft since 1996.

You need to check that the Facet will work properly in the engine bay. Most of these pumps are push rather than suck. In other words the pump needs to be mounted close to the tank. Also have a look at a Carter rotary pump: here. According to the blurb you don't need a pressure regulator. Can either import from USA or here.

Pace dry-sump installation instructions: here

Ditto for PACE & I echo what the others have said. I too use the Brise kidney tank. There are big advantages in the duel scavenge arrangement plus the tank is big enough to supply oil in all situations. See here