Mick Day

Think my pipes went through the alternator belt but that was nearly 20 years ago...🤔

Don't underestimate getting the sandwich plate sealed etc. When I did mine ended up getting Caterham to do it.....or I was just weak. It's easier with engine out but not easy in situ. From memory the drain plug is the same as a Ford diff plug. Bleed to cam cover as you describe. Temp sensor is whatever you use to measure oil temp.....so if using the water temp gauge & a switch same as water temp.

It's been in an MGF. Owner hasn't heard it running. Assume the worst. If you're prepared to get your hands dirty then it could be a cheapish way to build yourself a nice engine. Really depends on how good the head is once dismantled etc. Could end up as a garage ornament.

When I drilled a hole in the thermostat it took much longer for the engine to get up to working temperature. K series with 82 deg stat.

QED or DVA......Both would give a suitable upgrade.

For k series have a chat with dva http://www.dvapower.co.uk/

....and it survived a 1hr blat yesterday so feeling very positive!

Yep fingers crossed,.... 28th July is in the diary!

So....after a very long journey that started in 2010 it's finally, hopefully been solved. So as the title says. Engine dies but restarts after 20 or so seconds. So intermittent it would go years between episodes. Fast forward to 2020 & it gets worse making the car undriveable. Owing to other life things getting in the way it just languished in the garage. In the mean time: new coil, TPS, crank sensor, plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm, ECU checked over etc & no it wasn't fixed. So early this year it went off for a holiday at PGM. Fuel pressure very low ( yes it didn't start too well so....?). Tank & pump out. The pump gasket had disintegrated & there was so much gunk around the pump inlet it's not surprising it was difficult to start! Was this the cause? So tank was cleaned, new pump, gasket & filter made it start so much better. Weather so unfriendly it took a while to really test it &.............no it hadn't cured the cut out problem. This time it wouldn't restart & there was no spark.. At last something other than intermittent. Back to Andy & after a bit of fiddling with the wiring loom the crank sensor wiring was renewed. Result engine fired 1st time & so far it keeps going! Those around 24 years ago may remember my engine upgrade: at that time a lot of work was done on the engine loom & it was the multiple connections that eventually failed. So thumbs up to Andy & gang at PGM.

If the engine is mapped on say 97 RON, the ignition may have greater advance compared to say 95. If you don't then use 97 the engine may suffer from pinking (detonation) on acceleration.

https://jagwire.com/products/inner-wire

Dom: if you do suspect the pump get the pressure checked before removing it. My problem was more to do with the poor quality aftermarket gasket. But there again the original Rover pump quality has been suspect.

Had this problem on & off for some time. 1.9 DVA K. But mine was a complete cut. No hesitation just complete shutdown. Give it 30 seconds & engine would start again. At 1st it was occasional then ok for months. But in the last 5 years it made the car undriveable. I changed all the usual suspects: coil, crank sensor, TPS, distributor cap & rotor arm, plugs etc. In the end had the fuel pressure measured which was low. So tank out to remove the pump. The gasket had melted forming a goo around the pump inlet partially blocking it. So after a new pump, gasket & filter I'm now back in the game.

20 years ago we ditched the foam & fitted a baffle in the sump. This is one example: https://www.lakesideengineering.com/art markus/Sump Blurb.htm