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Englishmaninwales

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Everything posted by Englishmaninwales

  1. Englishmaninwales
    I've had every possible leak on mine. In addition to too long a bolt, pinhole in the weld and alignment, the mating face can be distorted and needs treatment with a file. Finally the locating bolt half way along the (earlier design) coolant rail fell out, allowing it to flex at the mating face and leak. Even looks home made. Horrid nasty bit of engineering.
  2. Englishmaninwales
    Bare casting? Malcolm
  3. Englishmaninwales
    .....then gets worse 😬 😬
  4. Englishmaninwales
    If all above fails you can leave car and trailer with me Malcolm
  5. Englishmaninwales
    Roger So does the belltank with a conning tower separate the oil and gases effectively? Malcolm
  6. Englishmaninwales
    Why is that a problem? Are there any known failures as a direct result? I'm only interested as I've just installed the CC system. There's me thinking how compact and clever it all is ☹️. (I know there are shortcomings with the scavenge pump position).
  7. Englishmaninwales
    Roger and Paul So what is the downside of the CC belltank system, besides small capacity? Malcolm
  8. Englishmaninwales
    Bruce My '94 factory built (confirmed on its chassis number) 1400 ss, now 1800, goes through the new MOT on smoke test only! Find a different MOT garage. Malcolm
  9. Englishmaninwales
    Thanks, Rob Malcolm
  10. Englishmaninwales
    The cylinder head will require a new hole drilled and tapped to accept a manual tensioner. As BOSS says, go to Oily. If it is a manual tensioner already, change it when fitting a new belt, as it's cheap and failure is catastrophic.
  11. Englishmaninwales
    For CC scavenge pump. Sorry about another torque posting, but can't find this one. Thanks Malcolm
  12. Englishmaninwales
    Hello Mike. Give me a call. 07774 634924 Malcolm
  13. Englishmaninwales
    Thanks
  14. Englishmaninwales
    As the title - anybody know the torque? thanks Malcolm
  15. Englishmaninwales
    *eek* It gets worse!
  16. Englishmaninwales
    Once you have removed the hub from the driveshaft, mount it flat in a large vice and use a good quality narrow socket, so as to avoid damage to the head of the bolt. Use new bolts on re-fitting. Just be pepared to note how the bearing is fitted when you first remove it Malcolm
  17. Englishmaninwales
    I've just changed all my studs after being picked up at last Aintree sprint by a scrutineer. In fact the shorter studs are just long enough (i think, distance engaged = 1.5 times the stud diameter - any engineers out there please confirm). Easy, but you need to remove and dismantle the hubs. You will need a 41mm socket for the rear driveshaft nut.Press out the old studs and press in the new ones. I did this in my large vice with some spacers. Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 28 Feb 2007 23:22:18
  18. Englishmaninwales
    *arrowup*
  19. Englishmaninwales
    Darren I'm not sure my emails are getting to you, maybe in your spam box. Ring me if you're still interested 01824 790495 07774 634924 Malcolm
  20. Englishmaninwales
    Thanks for all the replies Malcolm
  21. Englishmaninwales
    CC recommend using silicone for this, which I really don't fancy using *eek*. Will an anaerobic sealant be ok or Hylomar? Malcolm
  22. Englishmaninwales
    Darren YHM again
  23. Englishmaninwales
    Thank you, Peter. Stu, as helpful as ever 😳 Manage to break anything whilst ski-ing? Malcolm
  24. Englishmaninwales
    Anybody know the weight? malcolm Edited by - englishmaninwales on 20 Feb 2007 23:49:06
  25. Englishmaninwales
    Darren YHM re belltank Malcolm
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