Englishmaninwales

Hmmmm....Seems cured, but frustratingly I'm not entirely sure why. Rechecked all connections, checked the TPS again, confirmed all vacuum tubes connected and clear. From the wiring diagram Ian Blakeman sent me I identfied the unused wiring spur and plug for the lambda sensor. Interestingly, after replacing the engine recently I coiled this unused wire up (I've always assumed it was for an unused Rover accessory) and cable tied it to part of the loom close by (wires to the starter solenoid, ECU and temperature gauge coolant sensors). Correct running seemed to occur after undoing the cable tie and allowing the wire spur and plug to hang free. Is it possible that the ECU was seeing an induced voltage in the the lambda spur, then trimming the fuel when hot? Whatever the cause, the car is running perfectly, both problems gone. My only hope is that next week it's not back again. Giles, thank you for the temperature sender resistances, I shall check the sender anyway. A big thank you to all for the advice. Malcolm

Looks like it should have one fitted then! There are a couple of unused plus on the wiring loom so presumably one of these. Any pointers which one the lambda should be plugged into? No fixing point for the sensor on exhaust manifold, (CC supplied long 4 into 1) though. Strange thing is why it has run perfectly for years and suddenly doesn't?

Hmmm! Certainly no lambda sensor or wiring for it. This has occurred suddenly after re-installing the 1400 engine after running with an 1800 engine for three years with this ECU, without a problem. No other changes including same FPR, except reverting back to original blue injectors. The hot restarting problem persists until the engine has been flogged and then runs well except for as described in problem (1) above. Thanks for the help so far! Malcolm

Ian not fitted with a lambda sensor. Malcolm

CageyH I think so...at least it moves up an down in the usual fashion at initial switch on and if the ECU is reset. Just been looking at it now, and typically if left for 5 minutes when hot, the restart is is difficult requiring a partial throttle with refusal to run at idle position, then running very roughly with loads of black exhaust. Rechecked the vacuum to ECU and is clear, and disconnecting this when running in this poor state makes no difference. Throttle pot shows 0.7v closed and 4.7v fully open (Haynes states normal range 0-1v and 4-5v respectively). Disconnecting the coolant temp ECU sender doesn't make any difference. There are no signs of an air leak around the TB. Arggggh Malcolm

CagerH The TB is the earlier type, with the idle control by a stepper motor working the throttle spindle rather than an IACV...

Help needed! Two problems, which I suspect maybe related. 1. Poor running at small throttle opening upto 3k rpm, so making driving around town very difficult with lots of kangerooing, driveline shunts and not running smoothly. 2. It is particularily bad after a hot restart with inability to idle, lots of missfire and popping with the exhaust smelling of a rich mixture, again all at 2-3krpm partial throttle opening. This second problem goes after the engine has been thrashed for a few minutes, leaving only problem 1. Normal cold start up is fine as is the idle. Engine is fine if driven hard, and the engine revs freely and seems to produce full power. The engine sounds fine on overrun with no pops and bangs. I did wonder if it was using more fuel than it used to, but I haven't measured this. The setup is standard 1994 1400 supersport with SS ECU, forward facing plenum with 56mm stepper motor TB, 'blue injectors', dry sump, cam timing set to inlet 65 exh 45 thou at TDC. This setup was working fine at the end of last year on my 1800 installation, with the exception of the injectors which were changed back from 'cream' to the standard 'blue' ones. The injectors have not been used for 3 years, were working fine previously and carefully stored. I have tried resetting and replacing the ecu with a spare. Ive checked all electrical and vacuum connections. Any ideas? Thanks. Malcolm

results?

Mark Possibly a worn engine with poor compression when hot...... ☹️ Malcolm

Thaks for all the advice.

Thanks for the comments (well, most of them, Mark ). Am I correct in assuming the T piece goes into the heater circuit and connects to the bypass outlet in the QED housing? Rob YHM malcolm Edit to add...or connect the bypass in the QED to the small bleed pipe on the plastic radiator header (which I currently have blanked off)? Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 23 Apr 2008 08:33:08

Shelsley, rain and very muddy field springs to mind......... 😬 Malcolm Edited to say.....sorry not to be there this weekend, have a good 'un Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 22 Apr 2008 17:12:08

Anybody got any experience on the QED outlet remote thermostat or the Land Rover PRRT inlet thermostat for the K series? Malcolm

Ian According to the Rover K series manual you should use RTV Malcolm

No need to remove housing from block, just undo the 3 bolts and open the housing, and insert the thermostat. I've just removed the thermostat (temporarily) as it was suspect....How many strips of gaffer tape generally needed on the rad at this time of the year? Will be fitting a remote in due course Malcolm

As you look at the front of the engine, the crankshaft rotates clockwise, with the camshafts likewise. Advance a camshaft by rotating it clockwise relative to the crankshaft and retard it by rotating anticlockwise. Therefore at TDC on non firing stroke, advancing the inlet camshaft will increase lift and for the exhaust camshaft will reduce lift. Not sure of the part number for the belt, but is wise to change the manual tensioner.

I paid £750 3 years ago for a secondhand complete seirra 4.1 diff with a Quaiffe ATB fitted. But that was from a well known secondhand caterham parts sales person Malcolm

What are you selling this week? Yes, but the last thing he said to them was 'sign here', so get your will and pen out....

senior moment?

Martin I think earlier cars had a fixing to wing brace in the position you describe.

K series? New flywheel bolts come with threadlock already applied. I use a cut down wet sump gasket, works well Presume you mean water rail to head gasket? Easy to make one up with card and fit with Hylomar sealant Edited to add: make sure the water rail flange is flat ( mine was distorted) and the fixing bolts are not too long and bottom out. Malcolm Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 5 Apr 2008 22:57:10

Is it a single or double lap event?

Rob, I think earlier oil gauges (mine is a '94 car) have less damping, and minor fluctuations in the oil pressure are very noticeable.

Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 2 Apr 2008 23:36:14

I never solved this with my 1800 (except by fitting a DS). Took foam out, drilled gasket, apollo, improved pick up position, fitted a Hellier baffle (useless). Malcolm