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Englishmaninwales

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Everything posted by Englishmaninwales

  1. Englishmaninwales
    +1 on BGH Geartech. Note - When you install, the Type 9 five speed needs a gasket between the bellhousing and g/b along with sealant, otherwise it'll leak oil from the selector rail hole in the front face of the g/b. The six speed doesn't require this, but otherwise it's a straight swap. Malcolm
  2. Englishmaninwales
    I understand the QR can be swapped by dismantling and swapping the inner components relatively easily, although I've not actually done this.
  3. Englishmaninwales
    I raise you 'surrogate' cylinder. This fits with JaguarLandrover's woke ban on the word 'slave' (Daily Wail) https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-10956915/Woke-Jaguar-Land-Rover-bosses-ban-word-slave.html
  4. Englishmaninwales
    Luckily, I can't post my video (I know, I know, excuses) 'cos it like a gentle blat in the Curborough country side...but thanks for posting yours Dan (and all the others too) and for the feedback on Sunday - at least the advice wasn't completely depressing!
  5. Englishmaninwales
    Oops Sorry about the double post.
  6. Englishmaninwales
    +1 for GT towing.
  7. Englishmaninwales
    +1 for GT towing.
  8. Englishmaninwales
    I removed my Vecta for the same reason. When I updated my insurance company they were content with a removable steering wheel alone.
  9. Englishmaninwales
    YHM
  10. Englishmaninwales
    David You have a private message.
  11. Englishmaninwales
    Yeah Tazio, it's a shame, but I think he was finding it was getting increasingly more difficult to fit in the seat (Ok ok I know how that feels too!)
  12. Englishmaninwales
    Remove, disassemble and degrease. Examine the threads on the upright and trunnion.Place the outer portion and check for any play. Any wear, replace. Obviously if the thread on the upright is worn, this will require replacement. Replacements are available with poly bushes which are far better. Remember they are handed. Make sure the eyebolt is assembled anti -seize (Removal can be a problem if it was assemble without any last time!). Reassemble with EP 90 or grease (your choice, do a search, loads on this argument) Malcolm
  13. Englishmaninwales
    Same as you Tony! Looks like we crashed it. Malcolm
  14. Englishmaninwales
    Mine never gets used or tested!
  15. Englishmaninwales
    #3 "That is what I have. I want to remove it " Hi Julian, why do you want to replace the BS air box? Just curious. Longer intake trumpets? Malcolm
  16. Englishmaninwales
    Thanks
  17. Englishmaninwales
    What is the correct temperature thermostat for k series please? (Apologies for the thread hijack, David!) Malcolm
  18. Englishmaninwales
    +1 on using epoxy resin.
  19. Englishmaninwales
    Deliver your car/trailer to curbs the night before. There is a Premier Inn close by in Fradley. There are two Travelodges on the A 38 on northbound and southbound carriageways, but last time I used the southbound one it was filthy.... Malcolm
  20. Englishmaninwales
    Same thoughts, Ben. Sulking in the garage with 2 cars not yet ready...appointment with Arch this week for Sam's car! Malcolm
  21. Englishmaninwales
    Tom I think SM25T is on the money, pip is not engaged in the piston slot and inner pad is tilted.
  22. Englishmaninwales
    What's it called?
  23. Englishmaninwales
    Open heater valve. Remove header tank cap. Undo radiator drain plug and drain radiator. The engine block will still full of coolant, so undo bypass hose (thermostat housing to heater) at the heater end and securely plug the hose. Feed the bypass hose forwards and downward until the end is below the sump, making sure the hose is not kinked. Remove the plug and drain the coolant in engine block (except for a small quanity that will remain in the engine block that cannot be removed). My experience with the early 1400 engine, compared to later engines, is that it is very difficult to refill without an airlock (presumably due to the different closed deck block wet liner arrangement). Malcolm
  24. Englishmaninwales
    +1 Malcolm
  25. Englishmaninwales
    I bought the whole tower assembly from CC about a year ago (credit to TomB for alerting me at the time ) but Parts was having a discounted sale on obsolete parts, and I think they told me it was the last one. If that is the case you could ditch the belltank, replacing with a standard bellhousing and clutch release arm and fit a proper higher capacity generic stainless steel dry sump tank (they are designed to de-aerate the oil) from Burtons or such like supplier, in front of the passenger footwell (which you would need to shorten). You would need longer scavenge pump to tank and tank to engine pump pipes made up and rerouted (Think Automotive made some pipes for me recently). I think the whole assembly would be a bit lighter than the heavy, capacity limited, belltank. Malcolm
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