Englishmaninwales

Thats the one...Oops! the gauze filter is integral with the male adapter for the oil feed . Scavenge return pipe male adapter to tank. The scavenge pipe has a male union to the bell tank tower. Hi Line Scavenge Filter Assembly. This is the scavenge pick up in the bottom of the (Rover) sump. Consists of the anodised housing, gauze filter, retaing circlip and O ring. Alloy Spacer Hi Line Pipe. I think this is a small spacer for fixing the scavenge pipe to the outside of the (Rover) sump, two needed. Send me an email and I'll return some photos, I have my DS system on the bench at the moment as I'm doing an engine swap. Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 15 Dec 2011 23:50:07

Not sure about the list descriptions/part numbers, but: Caphead screws swirl tower to bell tank Caphead screws bottom plate to bell tank O ring seal bottom plate to bell tank Oil temp sender or blanking screw Scavenge return pipe male adapter to tank Oil feed pipe male adapter to tank plus internal gauze filter Longer bell tank to gearbox bolts Swirl tower screw cap plus dipstick (or later fixed top)

Thanks, but with work etc., trying to avoid going to a breakers, I'm hoping someone may have them sitting unused in their garage Malcolm

Standard fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator for K series, later type as fitted to the plastic induction plenum. Thanks

Marine Webra 40 glow engine, boxed, unused, run once (it was terrifying!) Nah! That's a baby, Webra Speed 61 (10cc) with rear disc induction with 1.2 BHP on tap really gets the boat going.... Still got two of these engines, installed in their hulls, from the late 1970's and from time to time still get a run out!

Quoting ECR: Make yourself a flywheel locking plate (or buy one). It's basicaly a finger that's bolted through one of the bellhousing bolt up holes and latches into the flywheel ring gear to stop it turning. Very easy See here This is the correct tool if the engine is out of the car for the front pulley and flywheel bolts

here

Same from us - very sorry we are unable join you, and congratulations to all class winners, and especially to Tom Price for his class 3 win 😶‍🌫️ Malcolm and Judith

Racetech steering wheel. 260mm with Caterham logo. Unused. £50 SOLD Wipac glass / chrome reversing light. Boxed and unused. £5 SOLD 4 Bosch injectors to suit 1400 K. Blue, code 280 150 703 fully serviceable 25k miles. £10 Stainless exhaust guard. here Fair condition, cleans up well. missing one jubilee clip. £10 Edited by - englishmaninwales on 2 Nov 2011 13:39:07 Edited by - englishmaninwales on 3 Nov 2011 22:24:50

Paul, Clive thanks! Malcolm

Help for a friend, please. VX Vivaro 1.9 cdti van. Cold and occasional warm start up, it won't rev up more than 1500 rpm for 5 minutes or so. Then runs fine. Been on a diagnostics several times and apparently no fault codes. Google search reveals EGR ( has had a replacement ) and airflow meter are common at causing loss of power. Now told by his dealer it 'might' be an injector problem..... Any other pointers? Malcolm

Thanks for all the advice

Thanks, Roger. This early type doesn't have an IACV, but rather uses an integral stepper motor in the TB to directly drive the throttle spindle, thus controlling the opening and setting the idle. This can be checked by resetting the ECU and observing the stepper motor resetting the throttle at idle, and appears to be functioning normally.

Setup: An early 1400ss K induction plenum/ECU/stepper motor TB/loom fitted to 1800cc engine with uprated injectors. Engine ventilation is standard (with cold air to cam cover and cam cover to plenum), except for charcoal canister removed and feed to this blanked off. DS is ventilated to the catch tank from the DS tower. Problem: Has run faultlessly for several years. Recently developed hot starting difficulty: It will only start (with great difficulty) and run properly if cranked with the throttle closed. If any throttle opening is used to make it start (easily) it will then only run very poorly appearing to be rich with loads of black exhaust smoke for several minutes until eventually settling down. I have tried resetting the ECU, swapping the ECU and TPS. Checked vacuum connections to ECU. Checked the connections to other sensors. Seems to me the ECU thinks the engine is cold at start up? Could this be a dead temp sender to ECU? What voltages should this sender show?

Yesterday was a North Wales coastal autumn reminder ...... wind, low cloud and horizontal rain. Well beyond the limits of my Eze-Up

Simon There is a late entry for us sent yesterday, organisers are aware

Will you allow class 3 competitors at your table? If so, 2 of us! ( I'll even let you sit at the end of the table this time, so you can get out easily 😬) Malcolm

I took this issue up with a well known supplier a couple of years ago and I was told it was fair wear and tear.....blamed me for running without a belt cover and letting dust accelerate wear. That was before he asked me whether I'd run without a belt cover Poor quality IMO.

Increase front tyre pressures to 30 psi

Quoting Roadsport06: I plan on getting my open diff changed. How do these compare to a ATB one? Don't use an ATB for competition use, as is still an open diff and will spin the inside wheel, even with supersport levels of power/torque. I changed to a Titan and is miles better. The ATB is fine for road and occasional trackday use. Malcolm

Just to add Paul's method will work fine with the std joint, but the bulk buy pins are hollow, so there is no surface for the bolt to purchase on. It will work, I removed your bulk buy pins without damage using this method: Undo the cycle wing carrier by undoing the lower nyloc and remove the caphead/washers/nyloc from through the pin. Pull the cycle wing carrier to one side. (This leaves a rim of the pin for the bolt to purchase on). Reinsert the caphead/ lower washer /nyloc. Wind the nyloc on until it is flush with the bottom of the caphead bolt. Insert the nut/bolt separator as described previously and the pin will pop out. ( I was expecting big trouble with this and it took me 5 minutes each side!)

Well done to all class winners, especially Shaun for his class record . From class 3.2 - well done to the 4 in class 3.1 with their impressive sub 60 secs and showing us how to do it 😶‍🌫️ Judith is very pleased to pass the trowel on, although she tried very hard to keep it on her final run

many thanks to my co-driver for helping me find my way into my tent I'd sack him, given the poor advice about how to get into the tent without sustaining a head injury 😳