Englishmaninwales

The switch has changed. The warning light in the switch has a separate feed from the output to the fog light. If you join one of the spade connectors on the side of the switch to the feed to the fog light out of the block connector (leaving the other spade connector to earth) it will work. You will need to tape up the end of the old side light connection to the switch as this will be live when the lights are on. Just been through this for MOT as the warning light is a requirement.

Quoting tiddy1: Any suggested upgrades to a 1994 chassis? will they powder coat the suspension parts at the same time Simon I've just had a post 96 long front fitted to my 94 car with the later suspension set up and attended to rack height with shims to eliminate bump steer. With a higher rack position Arch will re-position the track rod holes in the side skin. Obviously a new long front significantly adds to the costs but from a pure driving point of view, a marked improvement over the previous setup, although I've not competed with the car since so no idea if it is actually 'faster'. You will need new longer front dampers and springs (more cost!). As for suspension parts try to find a company locally to you and get them nylon coated rather than powder coated as they will last much longer. I had all my rear suspension components done like this several years ago and have lasted well. Make sure the coater knows where to pre-treat all the bolt holes as you'll have a real job getting it off.

Cam phase sensor is located on the top of the cam cover.

Quoting evotell: Quoting sforshaw: Terry, from memory my 1400K SS didn't have the first 2 items on your list Unless the 1st item is for the crank not camshaft? Stu. I can see that it wont need the cam shaft sensor as it has a sensor at the back of the crank, but what is the sensor on the manifold Depends on the age of your car. CC did produce some late 1400 cars which are likely to be EU3, and if so you will need a cam phase sensor. The sensor in the manifold is the air temperature sensor.

plus 1 EU2 K series with single coil and dizzy + Webers + EU2 loom (with redundant injector, stepper motor wiring removed) + emerald + RR session for ignition map, cam timing and jetting.

here

I ran a 4.1 ratio with standard type 9 ratios with a 7600 limit a few years back for hillclimbing. Fitted with 15'' 195/45 Stunners (I dont have a record of the rolling circumference now) and I got 35/66/95/119/and a theoretical 144 mph which are close to your figures in the link. Edited to add - just found it 1737mm for the Stunners Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 15 Apr 2014 14:07:36

Quoting evotell: The location of the oil pressure switch on the 1.4 K Series is total madness. Has anybody done a mod on it. I plan to put a 90 deg elbow in the union which points it upwards. Any suggestion would be helpful. I guess you mean the sender unit. My 1.4k pressure sender location is not madness at all. It is located on top of the oil filter housing, well protected by the filter housing itself below and the alternator above. I suspect you have the later version with the sensor located below the filter housing. Your suggestion would seem to resolve the issue. Alternatively try and get hold of the earlier oil filter housing. Malcolm

Looks like a Rover pump in the photograph in RR's Blog?

Quoting Richard Price: Quoting TomGaval: Is it as simple as drilling the appropriate size hole in the rail, inserting a bung an TIG welding it in and then tapping it? [/pQuote Yes, essentially, that's about it. Quoting David Nelson: There are a few sprinters using HANS and we us a steel plate to take the bolt holes to the appropriate position. For my own seating position, I was able to use one of the existing bosses, adding one new one to position the harness' correctly. Height is also critical. I'm short, and sit low in the car, so my harnesses are actually bolted under the bulkhead top rail rather than over it. I've then cut slots in the bulkhead that they emerge through. As Richard says sitting height is critical. I had Arch fit mine and, as I understand it, the shoulder to anchor point angle range for the straps is 0 to -20 degrees from the horizontal. I was able to use the top of the bulkhead top chassis rail, with both new points placed symmetrically to the centre line of the seat, inboard (unequally) of the existing anchor points. The holes in the Tillet seat required significant enlargement so the straps did not foul.

Quoting Paul Deslandes: Although probably already stated, its also worth re-emphasising: if using an Easibleed, just use it as a means of connecting compressed air to force fluid from the master cylinder into the system. Don't put brake fluid in the Easibleed bottle, just keep the master cylinder topped up as otherwise the risk of fluid spillage and paint damage is quite high. Paul ....and when disconnecting from the master cylinder make sure the pressure is released at the tyre first. No prizes for guessing how I know.......

Quoting Rob Walker: IIRC on my car it was the ends of the de dion tube that the ears mount onto that needed fettling not the ears. Same as mine

It's just the car I'm working on doesn't have one at all but have one coming

Mankee YHM

Bringing this thread back to life.. If there is no air temp sensor fitted at all I suppose Emerald has a default, say 10 degrees? Does it really make much difference, except at extremes eg frosty morning and hot summers day? Car is going for mapping soon, will it need to have one for that? Malcolm Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 22 Mar 2014 19:00:46

The latest spec K series oil rail will foul the Caterham dry sump too.

Looks like the belt on mine is a bit longer, the number is 3PK775. Malcolm

Andy I'm not sure about the bearing. I did research it a few years back and I did have some difficulty getting the correct one.I can't confirm the part number you have listed. As I posted above I replace the whole auxillary drive tensioner assembly as an annual service item. It is a MG/Rover part 534016810 and available through most motor factors. It has a plastic pulley, which some don't like. I will check the number on the belt tomorrow. Malcolm Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 12 Mar 2014 23:56:18

Quoting BigCol: can't see fitting that kit making it non-IVA-compliant... that said, one of the rear wing bolts is used to earth the fuel tank (or sender or... anyway something fuel tank-related) so that'll need to be a standard metal bolt (or attach the cable elsewhere) Not necessary, use the nylon bolt but ensure the terminal end is sandwiched between the car skin and a metal washer. I've used this method for years without any problems Malcolm

Sorry to hear this, Andy. The belt idler is IMO the weakest point of the K series DS system. I have replaced the tensioner assembly more or less annually, a bit expensive (£60) but cheap in relation to the cost of an engine rebuild. It is possible to source the correct size bearing without buying the whole tensioner, but I have found it difficult to source a sealed version of the bearing complete with high temperature grease. Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 9 Mar 2014 18:34:10

.....and also a special thank you to Stu Forshaw for drilling and tapping the cylinder head for a manual tensioner. (I hope I haven't left anyone else out 😳) Malcolm

After a lonnngggg 18 months following my little 'excursion' onto the grass at Anglesey, much money, very long periods of loss of interest, today there was much cranking of the engine (must remember to re-connect the crank sensor after cranking for oil pressure 😳) and the green beast finally started . Many thanks to all those for the advice and help I have received (especially Bruce and Phil at Arch, Richard Price for answering my daft questions and for suspension setup this weekend, Simon Rogers for help with dampers and a new fuel tank, Clive and Robert Kendrick for a really fab respray, various people who have bought items off me to fund the rebuild (Nick Chan - can I have my 6 speed g/b back now please ?) and finally Dave Clarke for helping with the engine and gearbox re-install last weekend. The VHPD engine is sitting in the corner of the garage looking sorry for itself with a cracked cylinder block, so will be sometime before that will breathe again. Probably a good thing too. A few odd jobs to do (fitting wings, scuttle and lights)and and then Curbs on 18th March Malcolm Edited by - englishmaninwales on 6 Mar 2014 00:10:44

Same vote from me for a Titan, again via R+R

I ve got a pair of std Rover K series cams, no idea if hollow, yours if you want them? Malcolm

Deleted - misunderstood! Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 19 Feb 2014 21:57:38