Englishmaninwales

Did you check the Emerald fly lead continuity, as above? This sounds very familiar when I had a break in one of the wires.

My daughter is selling her car. This is an excellent reliable runabout in good condition for its age. Vauxhall Astra 1.6 SXI 3 doors, petrol. Y registration 110,000 miles. Electric Windows, A/C, CD player, MOT until June 2015, tax until August 2014. Had three new tyres this year. Part service history. £750 or offers. Located in Ruthin N Wales. If interested please reply on here or blatmail.

Check continuity of the lead. I had a duff one

I always split (K series). Same reasons. Always comes out/goes in easily (unless you try with a bent engine mount ) Malcolm

Yes they rebuilt my steering rack and DS gold pump last year. No problems apart from a bit slow. I delivered and collected the items direct. I didn't buy any parts, though Malcolm Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 27 Jun 2014 23:37:32

Hi Dave Do mean the trader from Lymington? He pops up regularily with Elans for restoration. Those both currently on require a huge amount of work, but appear complete.

Hi Simon Did you get my mail?

Simon YHM Malcolm

Quoting steve m: If you'r worried about small light weight cars having no safety features, then why do you drive a Caterham and not something with air bags and crash protection If you add cages and other safety devices found on modern cars it makes the car heavy which kind of defeats the point 😬 I think you are missing the point.

Hmmm...I watch with interest as I have one in storage

Quoting James.S: Quoting Englishmaninwales: Quoting James.S: The best thing to fit though to protect against a rear end is a cage! Wouldn't drive a 7 without one. :) Apart from the cage not protecting a rear end impact, there is very real danger with a cage (some more so than others) on the road unless one is prepared to wear a helmet all the time. I ve seen my video of how much and where your head moves in a 50 mph near head on impact. Yes it does. :) I always wear a helmet. :) I can show you how much a cage does to protect the driver in a 120mph,9g, rearward Armco visit. :) As I implied that's fine if you wear a helmet all the time whilst driving on the road. Many don't. That's my point. Of course in a rearward impact your head movement to some extent is restrained by your FIA head restraint and so is less likely to impact the cage compared to forward, upward or side deceleration (and of course it doesn't matter what you wear/cage/restraints/seat/HANS if the deceleration forces, regardless of direction, exceed the tolerability of your brainstem/cerebral hemispheres to the torsional/sheer forces). Edited by - James.S on 10 Jun 2014 21:18:50

Quoting James.S: The best thing to fit though to protect against a rear end is a cage! Wouldn't drive a 7 without one. :) Apart from the cage not protecting a rear end impact, there is very real danger with a cage (some more so than others) on the road unless one is prepared to wear a helmet all the time. I ve seen my video of how much and where your head moves in a 50 mph near head on impact.

Quoting sforshaw: John, I believe one of the selling points of the Stahlbus is that it's a 2 part assembly so once fitted, there's no reason to ever unscrew the section that is threaded into calliper. I've known a couple of instances of the Caterham/AP front callipers having damaged threads resulting in a slow weep of fluid, obviously more problematic with ally callipers than steel. Stu. Hmmm...never unscrewing them? My experience of standard nipples not being unscrewed for a long period results in them becoming seized and snapping off. Further down the line these fancy ones might need removing, for example to refurb the caliper. Unless of course they are are corrosion resistant - I haven't read all the associated blurb on the website.

Remove screen and undo heated screen wires Remove wipers. Undo wiper wheel boxes Disconnect washer pipe Remove heater. Disconnect all cables/wires passing through bulkhead Remove fixings on baulkhead eg vapour trap, fusebox, inertia switch Undo 2 steering column to chassis bolts Remove 2 horizontal scuttle to chassis fixings (each retained by 2 nuts) Cut through any silicon sealant in joints Drill out one rivet into each side skin at the lower corners Lift off scuttle complete with baulkhead or as Clive suggests: Leave baulkhead in situ and drill out all the rivets, replacing with countersunk rivnuts. Lift off scuttle. Malcolm Edit Must type faster!! Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 1 Jun 2014 23:07:16

I'm in need of a centre cap for one of my MB wheels, the missing one is somewhere in a grass verge in North Wales ☹️ Black with Caterham logo. Thanks

Quoting CharlesElliott: Firstly, I mainly reuse them. I personally don't reuse them, simply coz that's what my father taught me as good practice! However, I suspect the risk of fatigue with reuse is probably extremely small, but given the cost, why take a risk? Besides, once they have been bent then straightened surely they must be a pain to re-insert? Malcolm

Quoting TomGaval: Had a very similar issue. Pressurized coolant, no mayo, no white smoke, water temps stayed normal. Oily guessed breached fire ring. Pulled head, did the peening, skim and new dowls, head bolts and gasket. All good now. Good luck. Tom Same symptoms and cure as my 1800 supersport.

We got into trouble at the gate on the Sunday morning as we couldn't find our entry tickets...even 'though it was 0700 and we were both in racing overalls, the gate sentry didn't believe we were competitors..... 😳

Rimmer Bros will most likely stock them new, and charge to the courier company

Yep, they do, I ve seen mine partially clogged with crud

Quoting SUPERLIGHT91: Seriously though - best thing you can do with that is take the body off and sell it as an Elan rolling chassis with V5 if it is what he says it is. Lotus Elan (and I'm referring to the original S1-4 Elan) body unit numbers and associated V5 relate to the bodyshell and not the chassis, which is regarded as a subframe by DVLA. So much lower value,if any.

here Pigs and wings spring to mind (BTW Nothing to do with me.)

Quoting Paul Richards: For some unknown reason I have found the 1.4 to be even more likely to have an air lock than larger capacity K series engines. Also more difficult to get rid of the airlock in a 1.4. It takes perseverance. The early type of 1400 is often difficult with persistent air locks due to its wet liner block construction with a closed top deck, with only tiny bleed holes in the casting. The open deck of the block of the later 1400/1600/1800 with 'damp' liners seems to be easier to fill and free of airlocks.

I must type faster!