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Englishmaninwales

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Everything posted by Englishmaninwales

  1. Englishmaninwales
    I have sent you a forum message. Malcolm
  2. Englishmaninwales
    Jeff Yes, no 172. Let me have you email and I ll forward the event finals. Malcolm
  3. Englishmaninwales
    See chitchat: http://www.lotus7.club/forum/chitchat/k-series-dry-sump-pan-possible-bulk-buy
  4. Englishmaninwales
    As title, any condition considered. Thanks Malcolm
  5. Englishmaninwales
    Oops! Ignore, as I've just found the answer at the bottom of the SR's - Class 25!
  6. Englishmaninwales
    Just for clarification, for the club invitation entry for the non championship event on the 8th August, are we entered in Roadgoing Specialist Prod Class or L7C classes 1-7 of our own? Malcolm
  7. Englishmaninwales
    Hi Simon Yes, as I understand that as ECU supports a stepper motor idle control rather than a IACV, an ECU change is needed as well as TB/plenum, and suspect that would necessitate an engine loom change too.... Scrap yards next, or hopefully a blatchatter who has upgraded their old 1400 to 1600/1800 with Jenvys...
  8. Englishmaninwales
    As a race car you probably have got flexible brake lines at the rear so no need to disconnect them from the calipers. Just make sure the calipers, when removed from the ears, are cable tied high up out of the way e.g. hung on to the spring damper unit. Malcolm
  9. Englishmaninwales
    Thanks
  10. Englishmaninwales
    Still looking for a TPS. Prehaps you have an early type throttle body, with one attached, lurking in your garage following your upgrade to Jenvys? Malcolm#Edited to add: looks like this: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-MKG10004
  11. Englishmaninwales
    DJ Are you sure it is the pinion seal ? I was troubled with a leak from the nose of the diff which eventually turned out to be from the drive flange splines. Phil at Road and Race suggested this was the cause and talked me through an easy fix for this. Remove the drive flange, ( bolt a steel rod to the drive flange, and use an air impact gun- my friendly ATS did this for me). Throughly clean the splines on the pinion drive and the flange with a solvent, apply RTV to the splines and replace the drive flange and re-torque nut. It has never leaked since I did this 8 years ago. Malcolm
  12. Englishmaninwales
    Graham I have a hole drilled in my QED stat and this allows progressive warming of the radiator coolant prior to the stat opening. It's surprising the effect a small hole has. Malcolm
  13. Englishmaninwales
    +4 for the QED remote thermostat Malcolm
  14. Englishmaninwales
    I had one of these plastic tees fail, but as above easily fixed with copper tube.
  15. Englishmaninwales
    Still looking
  16. Englishmaninwales
    Yes, will do.
  17. Englishmaninwales
    Thanks all, now sorted with several choices. Malcolm
  18. Englishmaninwales
    Dave and 7wotw - Thanks. Malcolm
  19. Englishmaninwales
    Mark Thanks, yes I've spoken with them, and they are my fall back, if I can't find anybody recommended closer to me up here in North Taffyland Malcolm
  20. Englishmaninwales
    I'm looking for a recommendation for an engine balancing company in Manchester, Liverpool or West Midlands area, please. Malcolm
  21. Englishmaninwales
    Still lookinjg
  22. Englishmaninwales
    Like Adrian I used an extra o ring in there somewhere, but I can't remember where! Although my cap is different, the screw off type with the dip stick. The additional o ring cured the oil leak. I ll take a look next time the car is out.
  23. Englishmaninwales
    Second in line please if PtP changes his mind. Thanks Malcolm
  24. Englishmaninwales
    Yes please, Chris Thanks Malcolm
  25. Englishmaninwales
    Still looking
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