Jonathan Kay

There was a change to the site software last week. Fixed an Android problem and changed some dialog boxes. I don't know if that could be relevant to the text style issue. Jonathan

Is that the latest OS that it can run? Jonathan

Edited: Crossed post. Not that I know of. I'll have a think. Jonathan

Previous thread. I'd try to establish the make and part number. Jonathan

"Do we know any good technical reason why they changed from Comma to Motul - or was it merely a commercial swap based on price?" TTBOMK I've never seen anything technical to explain that. But I recommend this thread on grade and track use and ambient temperature. Jonathan

Private Message sent. Jonathan

These? Jonathan

Thanks, Ian. Jonathan

Morning, Ian. I can't help with the source of the components but do you have anything unusual connected through that thick Purple wire? Thanks Jonathan

As above, there don't seem to be many reports of sudden worsening. I'd recommend not using DIY or proprietary leak-stopping chemicals. Jonathan

Previous leaks. Jonathan

Unfortunately you're not alone. I'll add some links to similar stories. It's probably repairable. This can happen because of stress from the mountings, and this needs to be relieved or it might happen again. That might need some packing washers or some hole opening or some bracket fettling. Jonathan

Once upon a time there was an addendum to the Assembly Guide describing which holes to use with which roll bar: This discussion might be relevant. Please could you add a photo of your arrangement. Jonathan

Let's do that search again together over in that dedicated thread. Jonathan

Please send me a Private Message with your email address. The Bolt List, the Fastener Packs and the Assembly Guide cover most fasteners between them. Beyond that have you got a method of searching the archives that works for you? Jonathan PS: Thanks, James... another standards story and possible analogy to add my collection. Spent yesterday on priorities for data standards for the NHS in England!

"Sounds like a faulty ignition switch to me. As in Jonathan's diagram, the ignition switch contact closes to put a 12V supply to the lamp. If that contact is stuck closed you will have the fault described. If the contact is open I don't see how an alternator fault could light the lamp." Yes, I agree how about how it could be caused by a fault in or near the switch. But there are reports of the same symptom from failed alternators. And this could be a failed alternator. My current thinking is that when this happens there is a short in the diode pack or similar and the electrons find their way through the ignition switch and the long way round through some circuit or other and thus to earth. Although the diagram shows nothing else connected to the switch that isn't actually the case. (If this is the explanation it would be rather like the funny circuit for the indicator warning light in Sevens that only have one.) This might just be the chance to test that explanation! Jonathan

The Assembly Guide has 7/16" UNF x 1 3/4" bolts for the upper straps and 7/16" UNF x 1" bolts for the lap straps. Please let me know if you'd like a copy. Jonathan

Here's the simplest possible generic circuit for an alternator warning light: Jonathan

That's very interesting. Check fluid level in battery if appropriate. Do you have a multimeter and would you like the wiring diagrams for your Seven? Did it used to work normally? And has there been any work on it or anything that might have caused the change? All other electrics working OK? Is anything else that should only work with the ignition ON working with the ignition OFF? How many wires of what colour connected at the alternator, and do they look OK and feel tightly connected? Ditto at the ignition switch. And does it have an additional starter switch? If you can get it started what's the battery voltage at 3,000 rpm? Jonathan PS: I don't like guessing causes, but someone's going to suggest this anyway, and this might save time. If it's the diode pack in the alternator that has failed it might be replaceable without buying a whole new alternator. Is there anywhere on Jersey that does this sort of work?

"My ignition light comes on when the engine is switched off. I believe that this may be a problem with my alternator. I am going to confirm tomorrow - once I do a voltage test." That's normal... unless it does it when the ignition is OFF... Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan

Did you identify the alternator or the terminal pattern, please? It will help someone someday... : - ) Thanks Jonathan

MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles Using a roller brake tester Ensure that the vehicle, or system, under test is suitable for testing using a roller brake tester. If the vehicle or system is unsuitable, it should be tested with a decelerometer. Using a decelerometer If the vehicle or system cannot be tested on a roller brake tester, set up the decelerometer in the vehicle in accordance with the equipment manufacturer’s instructions. 1 Drive the vehicle on a level road at a steady speed of approximately 20mph (32kph) and progressively apply the service brake to maximum. 2 Note whether the vehicle or steering pulls severely one way and the brake efficiency recorded. Before carrying out a decelerometer test on the public highway, testers must ensure they are suitably qualified to drive the vehicle and are familiar with the controls. If a vehicle has special controls, such as in disability vehicles, the vehicle presenter should be allowed to drive during the test if he/she wishes.

"Its mounted correctly I think as it's not at a hose connection." I haven't suffered, but IIUC any twisting action as the mounting fasteners are tightened could cause a leak elsewhere in the radiator. Jonathan