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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. "My standard tacho seems to over read throughout the rev range when compared to what my data logger and shift lights say. " Would you like to make them consistent? Jonathan
  2. Sorry... I was trying to localise it for the USA. Any better now? Jonathan
  3. Another product: "Action Can DM-90 Dry Moly Disulphide Aerosol Spray Lubricant Resin 500ml". Jonathan
  4. Well done. Thanks for adding the answer. Jonathan
  5. Yes, it's been described a few times. IIRC sometimes for track use so that you can switch the fan on when you know that you're about to decrease the airflow. I don't know what effect simply supplying a new feed would have on the ECU. The experts might. You could make sure that it didn't know with a craftily placed relay or possibly a diode. Check that any new feed is appropriately fused. And I'd suggest a warning light and/ or a timer... it would be easy to leave it on by mistake. Jonathan
  6. Did you do anything to the connections at the main lamp switch or the dip switch? And do you have a multimeter? Jonathan
  7. "The trick of using a radiator bobbin to replace a failed exhaust one is a get-you-home tip as old as the 7 bobbins themselves." The same bobbin can also be used to attach the seat on my Windcheetah! That's the machine in my signature image. But it's not the only Lotus connection... Jonathan
  8. I've linked above to some of the many threads on touring kit. Jonathan
  9. PS: I've just realised that I usually carry more tools and spares on the human powered vehicle than I do in the Seven! : - ) Jonathan
  10. I foresee a delightfully divergent thread: a minimalist tendency for a credit card or recovery card and a 'phone charging cable, and another approaching the full touring kit plus the hindsight of individual misadventures. It would be helpful to include the assumptions around multitools: with a few exceptions mine is with me anyway and covers a fair number of Ian's proposals. Jump leads. NB A jack and handle can be fitted in front of the heater and cables can be strapped to chassis tubes. And a tool tube can be used instead of that shoe bag and can be located elsewhere than the boot... Jonathan
  11. A range of techniques and products for cleaning and polishing. Jonathan
  12. NB date. Hard water used in coolant doesn't seem to cause problems. But if anyone is worried the easy (!) solution (!) is to use a prediluted product. Jonathan
  13. How's it going? Jonathan
  14. I don't understand a word of it but here's what's in the archives: flat shift potentiometer Jonathan
  15. Speedometer and Instrument Repairs Jonathan
  16. "I did a search on “fuel gauge” but it did not come up with anything, as this is my first post so it may be me." It isn't. The site offers two different search functions, both linked from this page. I get much more helpful responses by using an external search engine with site restriction. That's discussed in this thread: Search facility. And you can try it from the link in my Signature below, For fuel gauge that gives: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=site:caterhamlotus7.club+fuel+gauge. Jonathan
  17. Welcome. Yes, it's common for the gauge to be very inaccurate. There's a variety of interventions: Use distance travelled since last fill rather than the gauge. But two hints. Carry a spare can while you're running it low to see how far it will go! And some don't recommend ever running a tank to empty because it might suck crud. Add new markings on the gauge by adding known volumes of fuel from empty upwards. Same two hints. Add an electronic widget which remaps the resistance shown by the sender to the resistance seen by the gauge. Bend the float wire in the tank so that the resistance shown by the sender bears a closer resemblance to the amount of fuel remaining. John Vine's excellent and detailed experiments are the best starting place. Jonathan
  18. The factory jack and handle can be fitted in front of the heater. Spare cables can be tied to chassis tubes. Jonathan
  19. Once upon a time I organised a Bulk Buy for tool tubes. Among other things they will carry a cylindrical oil bottle. Jonathan
  20. And on the question that you did... Plan A: Lift the nose. Open the heater circuit. Fill the radiator and the expansion tank to the correct level. Run the engine until it's up to temperature and keep topping up. Check that the radiator has opened by feeling the temperature of the hoses. Massage the hoses. Check that the heater is blowing hot air. Consider adding a bleeding T-piece at the highest point in the circuit. Plan B: Drill a hole in the thermostat. This allows passage of air as you're filling even while the thermostat is closed. It also reduces thermal shock to the engine when it opens. Plan C: Modify the cooling system. Again there's a vast amount in the archives. Plan A does work for many Sevens. Jonathan
  21. First, on the question that you didn't ask... There are several reports of leaks from aluminium radiators. And a vast amount on this in the archives. Check that the mounting fasteners don't put any twisting loads onto the radiator. This may require enlarging the holes in the brackets and packing the gap with washers. On one Seven it has required cutting and shutting the brackets. And that the hoses don't put excessive load on the stubs. And then you have to decide what coolant to use. Radtec recommend one that is different from what most of us would like to put in aluminium K engines... Jonathan
  22. It's sometimes necessary to fit another relay for aftermarket horns. And there are many more horns in the archives: /forum/techtalk/klaxton-horn /forum/techtalk/air-horns-1 Jonathan
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