Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Jonathan Kay

Member
  • Posts

    40,915
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Factory jack and handle in front of the heater on an 1800 K. The jack is secured by bolts down into rubber well nuts. The handle is tied to the the jack with cable ties. Jonathan
  2. Tool tube next to the expansion tank on an 1800 K. Jonathan
  3. Yes, check for stickiness all the way from the pedal to the throttle. With it all connected, and then each component with it all disconnected. And the next time that it happens play with each bit to see if the speed drops back. Jonathan
  4. I've had a quick look but can't find the dimensions of the Clubsport 22. How about measuring the cage? Jonathan
  5. As above: It doesn't matter what you have to do to the brackets or the chassis end as long as there isn't any stress on the radiator. And the same goes for the hoses. Jonathan
  6. Have you got the appropriate Assembly Guide? And a copy of Weale? If not I'll have a look when I get home tomorrow. Jonathan
  7. Yes, there's lot on this in the archives. I have the jack and handle in front of the heater, spare cables tied to chassis members, and a tool tube in the engine bay. Jonathan
  8. If you end up replacing the unit I suggest fitting one with both cigar lighter and built-in USB sockets, at least one of which should be nominal 2.1 A for the quickest possible charging. Jonathan
  9. More later, please see posts on avoiding stress from mountings. Jonathan
  10. Once it’s in a gear is it happy and no noisier than it used to be? Cable or hydraulic clutch? Jonathan
  11. What's the outside diameter of the radiator stub and the inside diameter of the short rubber pipe? Jonathan
  12. "A widely recommended minimum is the ability to roll a Coke can under the lowest point. That's 66 mm. But there are many experiences in the archives describing 75 mm as being needed to clear obstacles." Jonathan
  13. Thanks for the part number ID and the manual. I can't be sure from the pictures... is it a blanked off speedometer port? Jonathan
  14. As above. From the text-rich Assembly Guide: Jonathan
  15. I'd try again with nuts rather than washers or a tube, as above. Jonathan
  16. Please can someone remind us how Mazda describe this gearbox. Thanks Jonathan
  17. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=site:caterhamlotus7.club+driveshaft+gaiters ... but I don't know how many different types there are. Jonathan
  18. Yes. Start with a good look and wiggle. The column switch is replaceable, and there are some helpful notes in the archives. Jonathan
  19. That sounds like the known fault. The surprising thing is that it affects the indicators as well. Clean the contacts, replace the switch... or reconfigure the circuit so that the problem doesn't recur! Jonathan
  20. Always happy to discuss searching... : - ) Jonathan
  21. Measuring rake: and https://duckduckgo.com/?q=site:caterhamlotus7.club+measure+rake Jonathan
  22. Have you already found the previous discussion(s) of flakey hazard light switches and what to do about them? Jonathan
  23. Yes. And I'd rather wear out old ones on a track than on the road... Jonathan
  24. Cutting suddenly... not gradually losing power? When it happens does the ignition warning light come on and do any of the instruments change reading? Check whether the starter circuit is independent of that master switch. And the hazard warning lights. Does the immobiliser work normally? Keep your list of possibilities open...master switch, original column switch, hidden starter switch, something else... ... Do you already have the appropriate wiring diagrams? Including Andrew Revill's corrections? Please let me know if you'd like a set. Jonathan
×
×
  • Create New...